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Author Topic: brake drag - how much is normal?  (Read 2048 times)
TGViper
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Posts: 80


« on: May 13, 2010, 02:24:11 PM »

Ok - this site has been a huge help so far!  Thanks so much...

When I bought the bike it had EBC pads with OEM rotors and buzzed like crazy.  I ordered OEM pads, front and back and replaced today.  Cleaned up both front calipers and re-installed.  Did not take caliper off of back but pads went on just fine. 

My question is:  How much brake drag is normal for floating calipers? 

I hear the fronts all the time, more so when the brake is applied obviously, then after releasing the brake, it gradually goes away, but never all the way away. 

Is this normal?

TGViper
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Saphire
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Posts: 41


Riding Pikes Peak July 2015

SW Indiana


« Reply #1 on: May 13, 2010, 04:54:11 PM »

I'm curious to hear what the masters have to say about this......

I'm finally at 10K miles on the 97 Standard and starting to get some brake drag on the front as well and I think this is way too early to be looking at brakes and possibly rotors....

Any advice??
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Misfit
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Colorado Springs Colorado


« Reply #2 on: May 13, 2010, 04:56:06 PM »

Pull the pins that they ride on and lube them. If they are lubed and everything is aligned properly there will be little drag.
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TGViper
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« Reply #3 on: May 13, 2010, 07:23:11 PM »

Pull the pins that they ride on and lube them. If they are lubed and everything is aligned properly there will be little drag.

What should the lube be for this?
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Mr. Nuts
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Bitterroot Valley Montana


« Reply #4 on: May 13, 2010, 07:29:09 PM »

Pull the pins that they ride on and lube them. If they are lubed and everything is aligned properly there will be little drag.

What should the lube be for this?

The pads are so easy to change I forgot that these are floating calipers. And they don't float very well without lube, or with old gunked up lube. Every auto store sells this as its used on all disk brake systems. Usually 99 cents or so for little packets sufficient for one job. Better to buy a little tube of it for $3 or so. Immediately fixed my problems...
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Oldswimr
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NE North Carolina


« Reply #5 on: May 13, 2010, 08:53:40 PM »

too weird, I just changed mine tonight, noticed the same from the front. Also did not lube the pins. Will pick some lube up tomorrow.
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TGViper
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« Reply #6 on: May 13, 2010, 09:05:49 PM »

too weird, I just changed mine tonight, noticed the same from the front. Also did not lube the pins. Will pick some lube up tomorrow.

Sounds like I have a trip planned for NAPA tomorrow...
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hubcapsc
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upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #7 on: May 14, 2010, 03:48:40 AM »


Here's what one brand of the right goo looks like:



Don't forget to clean (but of course not lube) the pin the pads ride on:



-Mike
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Oldswimr
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NE North Carolina


« Reply #8 on: May 14, 2010, 07:25:11 AM »



"Don't forget to clean (but of course not lube) the pin the pads ride on:"

So we DON"T lube the pins??
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hubcapsc
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upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #9 on: May 14, 2010, 07:40:51 AM »



"Don't forget to clean (but of course not lube) the pin the pads ride on:"

So we DON"T lube the pins??

the caliper "floats" on a couple of lubed pins that have rubber booties on them. The pads kind-of-slide
on a pin, the one in the picture. Don't lube your brake pads  cooldude . It all becomes real clear
when you're holding your caliper in your hand. If you don't clean the pad-pin when you change
pads, the new fat pads will be trying to slide on a dirty-formerly-exposed part of the pad-pin
and drag more than normal for a while...

-Mike
« Last Edit: May 14, 2010, 07:43:15 AM by hubcapsc » Logged

FryeVRCCDS0067
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Brazil, IN


« Reply #10 on: May 14, 2010, 08:18:12 PM »

If the brake fluid had been changed or “topped off” with worn pads the reservoir can be too full to allow the cylinders to fully retract when thicker new pads are installed. This can make them drag, wear quickly and overheat.
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daytona
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Port Orange, FL


« Reply #11 on: May 15, 2010, 06:50:51 PM »

If the brake fluid had been changed or “topped off” with worn pads the reservoir can be too full to allow the cylinders to fully retract when thicker new pads are installed. This can make them drag, wear quickly and overheat.
+1 on that! Or there is crud behind the puck. Lube on pins can help but crud and or corrosion on pucks is more likely the culprit.
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TGViper
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« Reply #12 on: May 15, 2010, 06:59:49 PM »

If the brake fluid had been changed or “topped off” with worn pads the reservoir can be too full to allow the cylinders to fully retract when thicker new pads are installed. This can make them drag, wear quickly and overheat.
+1 on that! Or there is crud behind the puck. Lube on pins can help but crud and or corrosion on pucks is more likely the culprit.

"puck" is a new term today for me..  Is this the rubber booted part on the caliper by chance?  Looks like the caliper can slide on this?
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1FAST6
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Sanford, NC


« Reply #13 on: May 15, 2010, 08:14:15 PM »

I always check mine after installing pads and pumping up the brake, but before I let it off the jack.  They always drag enough to make some noise, but not enough to prevent the wheel from spinning freely.  If it won't complete one rotation after I give her a spin, then something's wrong.  Not very scientific, but after 110k mi. I seems to be working for me...  As for the noise, cut the piggies and you'll never hear them!  cooldude
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daytona
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Port Orange, FL


« Reply #14 on: May 16, 2010, 05:55:48 PM »

If the brake fluid had been changed or “topped off” with worn pads the reservoir can be too full to allow the cylinders to fully retract when thicker new pads are installed. This can make them drag, wear quickly and overheat.
+1 on that! Or there is crud behind the puck. Lube on pins can help but crud and or corrosion on pucks is more likely the culprit.

"puck" is a new term today for me..  Is this the rubber booted part on the caliper by chance?  Looks like the caliper can slide on this?
Puck = The piston the B fluid pushes on to apply the pads to rotors. If they cant be pushed in by hand they are being bound by crud or corrosion. Must be popped out, cleaned and rubber seal should be replaced but just a cleaning may do the trick!
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hubcapsc
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upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #15 on: May 16, 2010, 06:03:50 PM »


If they cant be pushed in by hand they are being bound by crud or corrosion. Must be popped out, cleaned and rubber seal should be replaced but just a cleaning may do the trick!


Here's a picture after I cleaned one of my calipers till it was spotless, and then popped the "pucks"
out a little bit... see the crud that would have been pushed back in the caliper if I hadn't popped
the pistons out... I popped them all the way out and cleaned them up...



-Mike
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