Drive Shaft Spine Lube & Home Made Bearing Press

[dennis_obryan1965@msn.com]

Getting ready to pull drive shaft and service the splines. What should I use to lub them? I have moley past on hand but i have read of other options.

I am replacing rear left bearing and would like to make a bearing press. I can read but do better with pictures. Are there any instructions with pictures out there? 

[X Ring]

I use a qtip to burnish the diriveshaft splines with Moly 60 then put a good coat of high quality grease on the driveshaft and pinion cup splines.  I use Valvoline Synthetic Wheel Bearing Grease.  It also contains moly.  Others I know use Bel-Ray Waterproof Gease or Lucas X-Tra Heavy Duty Grease.

A home made bearing press is extremely simple to make.  Go to Lowe's and buy a piece of 5/8ths all thread, two fender washers the same diameter as the bearing outer race and two nuts.  Take the bearing to Lowe's with you and match the washer to the bearing.  Put a washer and nut on one end of the all thread.  Slide the all thread through from the right side.  MAKE SURE THE INNER SPACER IS IN THE WHEEL BEFORE YOU GO ANY FARTHER.  From the left side, slide your new bearing over the all thread followed by the 2nd washer.  Thread the 2nd nut on the all thread and tighten with a wrench.  Freezing the bearing followed by putting some light oil on the outer race isn't a bad idea and could make installation easier.  As you're tightening the wrench make sure the bearing is going in straight.  After the bearing seats, you can take a large socket and tap around the outer race to insure the bearing is seated.

This isn't rocket science.  You can do it.

Marty

[mirion]

Here is a tool I made for pressing the neck bearings and I think I also used it for the wheel bearings, just like Xring described.

[dennis_obryan1965@msn.com]

Thanks Guys
I think I can do it.

[1FAST6]

One important thing to note:  The inside hole of the Fender Washer MUST be larger then the inner race.  If it's not, you will need to drill or cut it out (I used to torch, then grinder).  You do not want to put any stress on the inner race when you pull it in or it will damage the bearing and fail prematurely.  The washer is likely to flex some under stress and you do not want to transfer that pressure to the inner race.  I didn't like the all-thread tool I made, and just set the washer I cut out over the bearing and tap them in with a large socket (not exactly the same size as the outer race, thus the washer under the socket).  You will hear the change in tone when it bottoms out.

[X Ring]

Thanks Guys
I think I can do it.

Dennis, we know you can.  We were there once ourselves.   

Marty

[Blackduck]

A good source of spacers/drive plates is your tool box, using smaller rod than 5/8" 1/2" drive sockets will go over it . If you have 3/4" drive sockets then the larger rod works. Plenty of choice with OD on the sockets and no problem of fouling the inner race.
Cheers Steve

[Tx Bohemian]

Ok, I"m reading with much interest on the replacement of the rear (and probably front) bearings and have this question/comment.

I haven't changed the Valk bearings yet, need to, but have changed some on the front of a Suzuki and had a problem with the spacer.  If I seated both bearings in the wheel the spacer seemed to bind on the inner races causing the bearings to bind up (putting sideway forces on the inner and outer races through the bearings) and were excessively hard to rotate. 
I ended up backing off one bearing just ever so slightly to allow them to turn freely. The bearings were bought through Suzuki, I take it the same ones their mechanics would use.

On the Valk bearings do you just seat the outer race in the wheel hub?

[1FAST6]

Yes.  The spacer was snug but did not bind on mine.