rmrc51
Member
    
Posts: 1087
Freyja. Queen of the Valkyries
Palmyra, Virginia
|
 |
« on: March 17, 2009, 04:30:34 AM » |
|
Sorry for beating a dead horse again.  Just bought the Valk a few months ago and I'm getting her ready for the warmer weather. The oil was recently changed with a synthetic but I'm not sure which and I have my doubts. ( I question this because I found a very dirty air filter and it was supposedly serviced before I took possession ) I was at the Honda dealer yesterday and they sell what seems to be a half & half blend of synthetic and regular oil. I had figured that I couldn't go wrong with an oil Honda carries but I still wanted to pass it by all of you out there first. I know by reading other posts that any synthetic used must be rated for Motorcycle use. (Friction additives?) So,,, here goes the typical newbie question again. What are your recommendations? Thanks in advance.
|
|
|
Logged
|
VRCC # 30041
|
|
|
christlj
|
 |
« Reply #1 on: March 17, 2009, 04:35:07 AM » |
|
Rotella 5w-40 synthetic. Look at walmart.
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Tundra
Member
    
Posts: 3882
2014 Valkyrie 1800
Seminole, Florida
|
 |
« Reply #2 on: March 17, 2009, 05:08:14 AM » |
|
My Valkyrie friends and I all use AMSOIL 10/40 full synthetic. These guys ride hard and do their research. I am no oil expert, but I can tell you from my own experience, my bike runs cooler, my bike runs quieter, my bike shifts smoother. That's all I need to know  It will cost you more, I still change at the regular interval, I do not extend it. I feel you get what you pay for. I don't skimp on oil, it's too important! The Honda dealer will charge between $11.00-$11.50 per quart. Buy in bulk (min 1 case) and pay around $6.50-$7.00 per quart from an Amsoil dealer. I know theirs allot of OIL OPINIONS out there, this is just what I know works for me.
|
|
|
Logged
|
If you can't be a good example: be a WARNING!!
|
|
|
Spirited-6
|
 |
« Reply #3 on: March 17, 2009, 05:17:18 AM » |
|
Rotella 5w-40 synthetic. Look at walmart.
PLUS ONE on Rotella @ Walmart for $19.00. 
|
|
|
Logged
|
Spirited-6
|
|
|
ricoman
|
 |
« Reply #4 on: March 17, 2009, 06:54:21 AM » |
|
I am using Repsol, (found at the local Honda Shop) a synthetic blend supposed to be good for wet clutches. Switched from Mobil One and to me it gives much smoother shifting. Seems a lot of folks are trying it.
|
|
|
Logged
|
take personal responsibility and keep your word
98 Tourer, black and chrome, added 8/11/10 98 Std, yellow/cream, totaled 8/3/10
|
|
|
Disco
Member
    
Posts: 4895
Armed Man=Citizen; Unarmed Man=Subject
Republic of Texas
|
 |
« Reply #5 on: March 17, 2009, 09:01:44 AM » |
|
Several of my VRCC buddies use the Honda blend and swear by it. Several others don't bother with full synthetic or blends. They go straight "dino" oil. If memory serves, Rotella T full synthetic was the consensus choice here for a long time. Is Rotella (without the "T") the same product? I don't know. I've been happy with Royal Purple (around $7.00 / qt). I ran 10-40 in the first interval for 7,500 miles (with the stock Honda filter) and the Used Oil Analysis by Blackstone Labs suggested I run the next interval 8,500 miles. I had not sheared viscosity at 7,500 miles. To feel better about running the oil that long, I went to the Purolator PureOne PL14610 filter for the current interval. The Honda filter is a good one. The Purolator has more media and the highest rating I could find for one that would fit (and it comes in black or yellow!). Several of my buddies are planning to extend the service interval by going full synthetic and changing the filter at the midpoint. IMHO, if you plan to change your oil at 4,000 miles, there is no real need to go $ynthetic. A good "dino" oil or blend will do just fine. That said, nothing is too good for my F6s.  Lots of good reading at www.bobistheoilguy.com
|
|
|
Logged
|
2000 Bumblebee "Tourer", 98 Yellow & Cream Tourer, 97 Rescue blower bike 22 CRF450RL, 19 BMW R1250RT 78 CB550K 71 Suzuki MT50 Trailhopper .jpg) VRCC 27,916 IBA 44,783
|
|
|
sandy
|
 |
« Reply #6 on: March 17, 2009, 10:44:02 AM » |
|
The Pure One PL14610 is the best filter: Buy at Pep Boys for about $6. All the oil suggestions are fine too. The factory interval on changes is 8K. I change mine at 10K with Mobil 1 and the Pure One. The M1 oil I use is rated for 15K miles. Been doing this for 50K and now have 104+K on the Odo. No problems.
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
pistolchamp
|
 |
« Reply #7 on: March 17, 2009, 10:49:18 AM » |
|
Rotella T 15W/40 dino, over 63,000 miles changed with new filter every 3,000 miles. I use it in everything I have that burns gas or diesel. Complete satisfaction.
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
BOOMR
Member
    
Posts: 70
VRCC #870
Toronto, On
|
 |
« Reply #8 on: March 17, 2009, 02:54:57 PM » |
|
Rotella T Synthetic evey 8-9,000km (5,000 miles)+/-. Bike runs smooth as silk. About the same price as what i used to pay for Dino stuff.
New Superteck filter ($2.60) from WalMart made by Champion (same as Mobil 1, Champion, STP and others). It is also made with symthetic media. Better than OEM and one of the best filters on the market. I actually called the company about 3-4 years ago and spoke to one of thier engineers.
Most WallyWorlds open 24/7 and just about everywhere...
Honda does not manufacture oil or filters.
Just my $0.02
|
|
|
Logged
|
I'd like to help you, But I Just Can't Fix Stupid
|
|
|
Fla. Jim
|
 |
« Reply #9 on: March 17, 2009, 07:44:03 PM » |
|
Trying a diesel oil for a change......Seems the M/C oil guys @ bob the oil guy like diesel oils pretty well! I havent noticed any difference in shifting and the noise level is a little quieter than with the Rottella. ( - =
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
fordmano
Member
    
Posts: 1457
San Jose, CA. 1999 I/S 232 miles when bought 11/05
San Jose, CA.
|
 |
« Reply #10 on: March 18, 2009, 12:14:54 AM » |
|
Trying a diesel oil for a change......Seems the M/C oil guys @ bob the oil guy like diesel oils pretty well! I havent noticed any difference in shifting and the noise level is a little quieter than with the Rottella. ( - =
Not sure but I think I am correct that Rotella is blended to be used as "Diesel oil",,  ,, I sure hope so  since that is what I have been running in my big old F350-SD 7.3L-TD.
|
|
|
Logged
|
 83GS550 93XR650L TARD! 97WR250 99ValkyrieI/S Tri-tone 01YZ125(x2) 05DRZ-125
|
|
|
Robert
|
 |
« Reply #11 on: March 18, 2009, 05:45:57 AM » |
|
Honda oil is ok but allot of guys run Mobil one car oil and the diesel oil is pretty good too. I run the Mobil One motorcycle oil in 20/50 I like it and look it seems that people have run quite a few different oils and the one common point is the bike keeps running regardless of the oil. I run the KN filter too no pre filter and I agree with the Pure one oil filter. It does a much better job than the stock filter and quite a few others. How do I know, I conducted a very stringent test. I used the stock filter after I changed the oil for awhile and took a look at the oil. Then took off the stock filter didn't change the oil and put on the Pure One and looked at the oil again after a little while and the oil was cleaner. Pretty scientific huh? lol, but it was enough in my books to use the Pure One.
|
|
|
Logged
|
“Some people see things that are and ask, Why? Some people dream of things that never were and ask, Why not? Some people have to go to work and don’t have time for all that.”
|
|
|
Master Blaster
|
 |
« Reply #12 on: March 18, 2009, 02:53:48 PM » |
|
Up to you, dont believe I haver heard of an oil related failure on the Valk. You can go cheap or expensive, but prolly wont make that much difference. To hear the Amzoil guys tell it, they have to stop every once in awihle to drain some gas to keep the tank from overflowing, Its so good the bike manafactures its on fuel. Then theres the bunch that thinks that Honda has a branch that makes oil and filters designed specail for Honda motorcycles instead of bidding the process out and accepting the cheapest bid, then charging more because it is branded. I used to use Mobil 1 but they like to reformulate it on a regular basis, so for the last 8 or so years I have used the Shell Rotella full syn with the Walley World filter. I even use it in my ultra high performance ZX14. Cheap and works, and you dont have to worry about a mid trip oil change. I see guys change every 2500-3000 miles and with that expensive stuff, and just shake my head in wonder, what a waste.
|
|
|
Logged
|
"Nothing screams bad craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape."
Gun controll is not about guns, its about CONTROLL.
|
|
|
Gumby
|
 |
« Reply #13 on: April 25, 2009, 06:45:34 AM » |
|
Hello all, Gumby here and I must admit its been years that I've been out to this website so please bear with me. I have a 98 Std that I love and I am a very low tec guy. Figured I could find my answer here. I thought I had the oil change mastered for the last 10 years until yesterday. Here's what I experienced. I was changing my oil like I always do in the spring. First took the bike for a ride, got back, drained the oil, no problem. Started to take the oil filter off and noticed a black O-ring gasket about 1/8 inch thick (separate from the oil filter). For the life of me, I've never seen this before!!! Is it a permanent o-ring that is supposed to stay between the bike and the oil filter? I can seem to find it in any schematics i've looked at and it doesnt look to be part of the oil filter (standard honda filter). So I was perplexed. I felt I needed this part on the bike and when I tried to put the new filter on against it, filled the bike up w/oil, started things up. I had oil spraying all over the place when i started the bike. It was really a mess. Took the filter off quick, grabbed the o-ring, put the filter back on without this ring and all seems to be fine. Does anyone have a clue what I'm talking about here??? Thanks for any help!
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
R J
Member
    
Posts: 13380
DS-0009 ...... # 173
Des Moines, IA
|
 |
« Reply #14 on: April 25, 2009, 06:52:53 AM » |
|
The oil ring came from the old filter and it is no longer needed.
You did good in throwing it away.........
Now, ya got a f***in mess to clean up. Right?
PS:
When installing a filter, you only put them on hand tight.
Keep the wrench off of them except to take em off......
|
|
|
Logged
|
44 Harley ServiCar 
|
|
|
Spirited-6
|
 |
« Reply #15 on: April 25, 2009, 06:56:31 AM » |
|
Hello all, Gumby here and I must admit its been years that I've been out to this website so please bear with me. I have a 98 Std that I love and I am a very low tec guy. Figured I could find my answer here. I thought I had the oil change mastered for the last 10 years until yesterday. Here's what I experienced. I was changing my oil like I always do in the spring. First took the bike for a ride, got back, drained the oil, no problem. Started to take the oil filter off and noticed a black O-ring gasket about 1/8 inch thick (separate from the oil filter). For the life of me, I've never seen this before!!! Is it a permanent o-ring that is supposed to stay between the bike and the oil filter? I can seem to find it in any schematics i've looked at and it doesnt look to be part of the oil filter (standard honda filter). So I was perplexed. I felt I needed this part on the bike and when I tried to put the new filter on against it, filled the bike up w/oil, started things up. I had oil spraying all over the place when i started the bike. It was really a mess. Took the filter off quick, grabbed the o-ring, put the filter back on without this ring and all seems to be fine. Does anyone have a clue what I'm talking about here??? Thanks for any help!
Gumby, sounds like the "O" ring you are looking at is off the filter you removed. I`ll bet if you look at that filter you will see the seal is missing. I have never seen that happen , but----- 
|
|
|
Logged
|
Spirited-6
|
|
|
Gumby
|
 |
« Reply #16 on: April 25, 2009, 07:07:32 AM » |
|
Thank you for the quick reply. I'm hoping that is the case. I'll check the filter again but this ring I found looked alot bigger than anything that would have been on the filter. I could be wrong here so its worth another look. I"ll watch for any leaks and so far, it looks fine. Thanks for the help!
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Earl in Pensacola
|
 |
« Reply #17 on: April 25, 2009, 06:10:11 PM » |
|
I have a '97 Tourer, that now has 204K (I am the original owner) and has never had the engine opened except to adjust the valves. I have used Rotella T 15/40 ($11.00 per gallon) for at least the last 100K, changing the oil and filter at every 4 to 5K. I still have the Original clutch and adjust the valves at about every 30K. She does not use or lose a ddrop between changes and still pulls and average of 168 PSI compression. So, I guess there is something good to be said for a high quality "dino" oil as long as you change according to how hard you ride the Phat Lady.
Just another 2 cents
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
BF
|
 |
« Reply #18 on: April 25, 2009, 06:50:59 PM » |
|
I have an oil viscosity question.
I have a '97 standard with 41,000 mile on it and I'm due for an oil change and so far, have been using the honda oil (40 wt) and honda filters in it. I'm pretty sure I'm going to switch over to Amsoil.
It looks like most of you use a 40wt oil, and so far, so have I, but with the miles on my Valk, and becuase of where I live, in a veeeeery hot and humid environment (Florida), should I consider using a thicker oil such as the Amsoil 20w-50 when I do switch over to the synthetics?
Also, what about filter compatibility? Can I still use the Honda filters with the Amsoil, or should I use another filter? Any filter recommendations for use with the Amsoil?
Thanks.
|
|
|
Logged
|
I can't help about the shape I'm in I can't sing, I ain't pretty and my legs are thin But don't ask me what I think of you I might not give the answer that you want me to 
|
|
|
Tropic traveler
Member
    
Posts: 3117
Livin' the Valk, er, F6B life in Central Florida.
Silver Springs, Florida
|
 |
« Reply #19 on: April 25, 2009, 07:03:05 PM » |
|
5W40 Rotella diesel oil here. 30,000 {90,000 total} hot Florida miles ridden using that weight with zero problems. You are good to go with 5W40 or 10W40 in Florida as long as it is compatible with the wet clutch. The Rotella 5W40 is.
|
|
|
Logged
|
'13 F6B black-the real new Valkyrie Tourer '13 F6B red for Kim '97 Valkyrie Tourer r&w, OLDFRT's ride now! '98 Valkyrie Tourer burgundy & cream traded for Kim's F6B '05 SS 750 traded for Kim's F6B '99 Valkyrie black & silver Tourer, traded in on my F6B '05 Triumph R3 gone but not forgotten!
|
|
|
borat
|
 |
« Reply #20 on: April 25, 2009, 07:07:10 PM » |
|
I run Rotella T 15W40 dino in everything I own except my snow thrower and pick up. Thrower gets synthetic for winter use and pick up gets Rotella 5W30. I have run Rotella T for many years in air cooled ATVs that I had for twenty years before I sold them to buy two new liquid cooled ATVs. Those old ATVs saw service so severe that even today, I shake my head at how well they performed. Never an engine/transmission problem with either of them and they're still running strong with their new owners. The new machines get Rotella T. My '06 KLR650 which I've had since new has had nothing but Rotella T. It's only got 18K on but doesn't use any oil, shifts and runs great. My '03 Valkyrie also gets Rotella T. Why people shell out big bucks for Hollywood oil is beyond me. Must be an insecurity issue or something. It's like something that seems too easy can't be right. Can it? Rotella T is the best kept non-secret out there.
|
|
« Last Edit: April 25, 2009, 07:09:24 PM by borat »
|
Logged
|
Noise & chrome are no substitue for power, performance and reliability.
|
|
|
DeathWishBikerDude
|
 |
« Reply #21 on: April 25, 2009, 09:07:29 PM » |
|
Most every oil on the market passes certain standards. Most synthetics are really just highly refined dino oil,so I just buy the cheapest synthetic I can find. Usually super tech from wally world. Changing oil is more important than which brand your using. I change my oil in the fall,before storage,so not to let old oil sit in the crank case for 6 months. I think folks who spend big bucks on motorcycle specific oil,or the other $10 per quart wonders are just throwing money away. I've never had an engine failure. 
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
BF
|
 |
« Reply #22 on: April 26, 2009, 07:19:35 AM » |
|
I hate to show my ignorance and ask a stupid question  , but are there synthetic specific oil filters? Or can you use regular Honda, or other brand filters with the synthetics? I'm sure that there are as many recomendations for brands as there are posters, but what are the "good" oil filters?
|
|
« Last Edit: April 26, 2009, 07:21:55 AM by BeltSanders »
|
Logged
|
I can't help about the shape I'm in I can't sing, I ain't pretty and my legs are thin But don't ask me what I think of you I might not give the answer that you want me to 
|
|
|
Grandpot
Member
    
Posts: 630
Rolling Thunder South Carolina Chapter 1
Fort Mill, South Carolina
|
 |
« Reply #23 on: April 26, 2009, 08:10:08 AM » |
|
Beltsanders: No, there really is no 'synthetic specific' oil filter. Like anything else, there are some that are better than others. Here's a link with a lot of filter comparison information. http://www.tobycreek.org/oil_filters/index.shtml 
|
|
|
Logged
|
 Experience is recognizing the same mistake every time you make it. 
|
|
|
Grandude
|
 |
« Reply #24 on: April 27, 2009, 01:08:13 PM » |
|
When I feel like paying extra I use Amsoil cause I think it's one of the top synthetics. Makes everything run smoother and quiter.
When budget won't allow, I use 15w40 Delvac known as "The Million Mile Oil" for diesel engines. I only ran synthetics 'til I found this. It would be hard to find an oil that's much better, whether dino or syn. Again everything's smooth and quiet. And it's only $13.99 per gal.
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
John U.
|
 |
« Reply #25 on: April 27, 2009, 01:38:26 PM » |
|
Beltsanders, in a real hot climate you might want to use a heavier oil. A hard bitten Harley rider I knew in Sarasota told me he runs gear oil in his bikes. Was he kidding? cursed if I know. Many of us use Purolator Pure-One oil filters. You can get them pretty cheap on Amazon http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B000GIVEII/dealtime-auto-20/ref=nosim The PL14610 filters are a bit longer than stock but the same diameter
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|