Headlight bulb

[Tundra]

I'm looking for more, brighter light. I've seen some bulbs that claim to provide 110watts of performance from a 55watt bulb. Hows that work??? Will that be too hot? I just replaced my stock bulb with a new stock bulb, then adjusted my headlight properly. It's still very hard for me to see at night. Sugestions please.

[MNBill]

SIlverstar H4 gives you a whiter light you can see better with. They say the 9003 works too but the H4 is made for MC vibrations. The white light really helps at night and you stick out among the other bikes, makes their headlights look yellow.

[Tundra]

Sounds good, looks good,  How about the heat? Does it get hotter? Is it safe with the lens? Thanks

[Crazyhorse]

I have used them on my I/S for several years now without melting anything. The ones I use are not 110 watts I'm thinking around 85 watts but they do make a great difference.

Crazyhorse

[Black Dog]

I've used a 55/100 sylvanya in my Standard for years...  55 watt low beam, for normal riding, and 100 watts when ya need to see down a dark country road a bit.  A real 'flame thrower'    Got mine at NAPA.  Some stores may have them in stock, otherwise, its a day or two wait.

**Disclamer**  This has worked for me.  My wires have not gotten brittle, and I've had no heat issues. 

I believe Mark T has a good write up on upgrading the circuit, bulb socket and using a relay, for those interested in running higher wattage (85 - 100 watt low beams) all the time.

Black Dog

[Tundra]

Thanks all

[Disco]

Hey Tundra, here's a thread from last week on the subject.  http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,1513.0.html

[Bagger John - #3785]

I have used them on my I/S for several years now without melting anything.

You can get away with this due to the fact that the I/S uses a relay to switch the circuits, while the other models do not. Anyone who owns a Standard or Tourer and is thinking about upping the wattage used in the lighting circuits would do very well to implement a relay switched light-control scheme. Cheaper than replacing your hi/lo-beam handlebar switch and other parts of the stock wiring harness... 

[Tundra]

Dave, good thread. You all provide good information and educate me when needed. Thanks

[Gryphon Rider]

Light bulbs of all types radiate energy within a broad range of wavelengths, ranging from infra-red (IR) to visible light to ultra-violet (UV).  A light is considered more efficient if it produces more of its radiation in the visible wavelengths (colours red through violet), and less of its radiation in the invisible wavelengths, IR & UV.  Indandescent light bulbs spend most of their energy producing IR wavelengths, also known as heat.

Light bulb efficiency is rated at lumens/Watt.  A typical incandescent flashlight bulb produces less than 6 lumens/Watt, while a 32W T8 fluorescent tube produces about 90 lumens/Watt.  This is a measure of how much visible light you are getting from the bulb or tube.

Some colours are better at doing specific jobs than others.  E.g. yellow is used for fog lights because it is not as easily scattered by water droplets in the air.  White light tinged slightly blue may be considered best for general illumination, such as with main headlights.

So if a manufacturer claims their 55W bulb is as good as a "standard" 110W bulb, it may be for a couple of reasons:
1. Their bulb is more efficient because of the technology used, and is producing twice the lumens/Watt.  This should mean that their bulb will actually run cooler than a standard bulb, because less radiation is produced in the IR (heat) wavelengths and more in the visible wavelengths.  Examples of this are HID lights and xenon halogen lights.
2. They have made their bulb produce more of its light in the colours they consider to be more useful.  This could be done with better technology, or simply by adding a blue tint to the glass.  In my opinion this is highly subjective.  I have tested the Valkyrie's standard OEM halogen bulb (1 or two years old) against a new expensive APC "plasma" halogen bulb with blue tinted glass and found that the OEM bulb gave slightly higher readings with my wife's expensive light meter she used for photography.

[Disco]

Great write-up, Grypon Rider.  Thanks for the additional info.

[Tundra]

And that's why I love this place! Always great information! Thanks

[sugerbear]

go to wally world and try in a pair of LIGHTLY tinted blue sunglasses, then switch to a pair of yellow.

then you decide.

yellow really brightens up the road at dusk also.

[John U.]

I have heard that some European coutries have outlawed blue tinted bulbs. Check out this bulb. I'm using it, throws a lot of light and it's not blue.
http://store.candlepower.com/64205.html

[Disco]

Cool!  More yellow stuff for the Rumblebee!   

[John U.]

Hey Boston,
I agree about silly expensive lights. I bought a set of these: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CLEAR-BULLET-DRIVING-LIGHTS-MOTORCYCLE-STREET-ROD-AL_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp4634Q2ec0Q2em14Q2el1262QQhashZitem260378124517QQitemZ260378124517QQptZOtherQ5fVehicleQ5fParts
I paid less and I've seen the same thing at Walmart for about 15 bucks. I'm sure the chrome isn't the best but if I get a couple of seasons out of them. I figure to mount them to the crash bars with Kuryakyn P mounts.
A relay for sure, triggered by the starter switch would be best, so they turn off while starting.
Though there is some logic to having a separate switch. If all lights are triggered by the starter switch they could all fail at once. Might make getting home a real challenge :'(

[MarkT]

Maybe I missed it, but I didn't see you say if you had a std/tourer or I/S.  I'm guessing the former, as the latter has more light on the road with 2 headlights.

Anyway, I believe the most effective solution is a higher wattage bulb than stock, powered by relays, as I wrote up at http://www.horseapple.com/Valkyrie/Tech_Tips/Headlight_Upgrade/headlight_upgrade.html
This is really just an afternoon project, and you can just implement this design, don't have to re-invent the wheel.  I got my bulbs from competition accessories, and I still have a couple spares - but I see now they no longer list the 130/90w H4.  I just found it at Amazon, at http://www.amazon.com/HALOGEN-BULB-H-4-12V-130/dp/B000WJJ82K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1237588092&sr=1-1   for $13.69.  I'm sure there are other sources, in 130/90 watt. 

This bulb will light up the road for a MEASURED half mile.  It's not legal, probably in most states.  But I've been running mine for 11 years and have not had any problem with the LEO's.  My headlight is aimed carefully to be sure it's not pointing too high - I don't get flashed by oncoming traffic so it doesn't appear too bright when on dim.  Be careful, you don't get too big a difference between high & low beam watts, or going to dims will be like losing your headlight. 

It must be wired through 2 relays.  It's easy to just use the existing power wires to the headlight, to instead go to the triggers on the relays.  This lowers the current draw on that circuit so much, that you will no longer need to maintain the starter switch, headlight contacts.  I've never had to touch mine in almost 12 years now.

I've had no problems with too much heat from the bulb, causing any problems in the headlight, lens or reflector.  I did have to replace the plug on the bulb once, to one made for higher current.  That was in '01 - no problems or replacements since.