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Author Topic: Anybody ??? Brake replacement  (Read 1502 times)
kidcatfish
Member
*****
Posts: 120


hold my beer and watch this !!!

Ore City, Texas


« on: June 17, 2010, 10:02:32 AM »

OK, got the rear done including changing out the rotor,Bleed down and all that.  Now for the front. Got the left (sitting on it) side caliper removed, torn apart, cleaned the pistons in and out, put on the new pads and reinstalled on bike, got the other side removed, and here is where I hit a big snag. You know the cover screw that is on top of the pin ya have to unscrew to take the brake pads off, I cannot get it off this caliper at all. Trying impact on it to jar the threads, no good. I havent ever had the front calipers off before so I do not have any idea the last time this was done. Already screwed up the screwdriver slot on this cover. Suggestions?  Drill it and try to use an ease out on it, after all, it is just a cover screw to cover the allen head of the actual item that holds the pads on the caliper. Not enought to grab with channellock pliers. I had to walk away, come back in house, fresh ice tea, and post this.
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flcjr
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Posts: 776


Manhattan,Montana


« Reply #1 on: June 17, 2010, 10:40:42 AM »

I would drill it and remove with easy out make sure hole you drill is in the center and soak threads with your favorite penatrating lube. the larger the easy out the easier it will come out.
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Garland
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Posts: 451


#618

Hendersonville NC


« Reply #2 on: June 17, 2010, 10:44:12 AM »

No harm in trying the screw extractor, but that metal cap seems pretty soft so it may not work. You will most likely be drilling it out most of the way then chasing the threads with a tap. I try to remember to but some anti-seize on those things when I have them out.
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Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008
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Posts: 3025

Huffman, Texas close to Houston


« Reply #3 on: June 17, 2010, 10:47:34 AM »

I've had good luck using a small chisel (say 1/4 inch) and tapping it the direction to loose it and jar it at the same time. if that doesn't work, eaze out might work or left-handed drill bit might also get it out.
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hubcapsc
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Posts: 16785


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #4 on: June 17, 2010, 11:00:45 AM »


Same thing happened to me when I first got my Valk. I ruined the caliper trying to
drill that little cap out. Got another caliper from Pinwall for $25, rebuilt it and
use anti-seize on the little cap every time I go in there now...

-Mike "good luck, not everyone is a clutz like me  Wink "
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kidcatfish
Member
*****
Posts: 120


hold my beer and watch this !!!

Ore City, Texas


« Reply #5 on: June 17, 2010, 12:07:36 PM »

OK, thanks, Afer I cooled down some, went back to the shop and said 'What the heck, it aint no good like it is" and got a bigger screwdriver and a hammer to wack on the screwdriver while appling preasure. It worked, out it came. I just have to get another screw, will not put it back in. Too messed up on the removal end.  It could have been worse, I was thinking was I gonna need to replace whole caliper. Thanks to all who read and responded. Nuther job finished. Got all the brakes bleed down too without any trouble.
Now I got to go try it out !!!  I will check them in shop before heading out on road.
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Wildman
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Posts: 111


« Reply #6 on: June 17, 2010, 12:47:53 PM »

If you have a Dremel you could cut another slot and use the impact hamer again.
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sandy
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Posts: 5390


Mesa, AZ.


« Reply #7 on: June 17, 2010, 07:23:58 PM »

Years ago I bought a hand impact driver. That has saved me many times when a steel screw is in an aluminum housing. Ditto on the Never-Sieze. Use it whenever dissimilar metals are involved.
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Ricky-D
Member
*****
Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #8 on: June 18, 2010, 10:25:53 AM »

That little cap acts like a jam-nut.

You could get some short bolts of the correct size and thread and use them as a replacement for the caps.

That way you would have a hex to wrench on when needed.

***
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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