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grennels
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« on: June 17, 2010, 02:44:49 PM » |
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I'm leaving on a three week ride in two weeks. While doing some trip prep I noticed the the petcock is dripping gas. The bike is a 98. I read that you have to drill out rivets to repair the petcock? Mine looked like it had screws in the cover? What are my other options? I read about an electric fuel valve but with that you would have no reserve, right? Are there after market petcocks that would still allow you to switch to reserve while riding? Does anybody have a petcock they would sell me? g_rennels@yahoo.com |
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Daniel Meyer
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Posts: 5493
Author. Adventurer. Electrician.
The State of confusion.
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« Reply #1 on: June 17, 2010, 03:03:18 PM » |
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If it's dripping from the vent you can likely rebuild it...that's just a bad diaphram.
You need a "cover set"
COVER SET,rooster 16953-MBZ-B51
This contains new diaphrams and a new cover (the vacuum side).
Currently about $38 at directlineparts. No drilling required.
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CUAgain, Daniel Meyer  |
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hubcapsc
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Posts: 16785
upstate
South Carolina
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« Reply #2 on: June 17, 2010, 05:55:54 PM » |
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This link describes an almost foolproof vacuum test you can do when you rebuild - you'll know if you did it right before you even put the petcock back on the tank... http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/petcock.htmThese Cholla pictures are really good, I wish they were bigger... it is possible to assemble the diphragm "inside out"... pay close attention to how the old diaphragm is put together when disassembling... http://www.valkyrienorway.com/partspetcock.html-Mike |
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Larry
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« Reply #3 on: June 17, 2010, 06:07:29 PM » |
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Just switched to a Golan so I still have a reserve and installed an electric fuel valve with a inline filter. Works real good. Rebuilding works and is a lot less trouble. You don't want to take the air box out if you don't have to, unless you like wrenching. Fixed my stock valve three times, but it was not a diaphragm issue. The ball did not seal off properly inside the valve and had to mess around in there, that's where the rivets are. Some guys have converted the stock valve to a manual one by blanking off the diaphragm all together. You still have your reserve, just have to remember to turn the valve off all the time, but if you tip over or something gas still flows. That's where the EV is nice, if the engine stops so does the gas. Much safer.
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« Last Edit: June 17, 2010, 06:12:01 PM by Larry »
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To Ride or Not To Ride? RIDE of course!!!
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grennels
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« Reply #4 on: June 17, 2010, 08:29:21 PM » |
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Thanks, guys.
So - you could put a cheap electric valve in line with the stock
petcock and still have all the functions and also have hydrolock insurance.
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Larry
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« Reply #5 on: June 17, 2010, 10:55:53 PM » |
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YUP! If you mod the petcock to manual, you will be eliminating the vacuum line to the petcock so no gas can go down that way.  |
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« Last Edit: June 17, 2010, 11:00:34 PM by Larry »
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To Ride or Not To Ride? RIDE of course!!!
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Bone
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« Reply #6 on: June 18, 2010, 03:36:03 AM » |
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My 98 Tourer started losing mpg this spring. The #6 spark-plug was sooty. I ordered a rebuild kit for the petcock. While waiting for the mail instructions were posted for making the petcock manual. I've been turning off the fuel for decades  so I converted mine knowing a rebuild kit was on the way if needed. Simple job and worry free (if you turn off the petcock). |
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fudgie
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Posts: 10613
Better to be judged by 12, then carried by 6.
Huntington Indiana
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« Reply #7 on: June 18, 2010, 06:11:00 AM » |
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Pingel  |
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 Now you're in the world of the wolves... And we welcome all you sheep... VRCC-#7196 VRCCDS-#0175 DTR PGR |
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asfltdncr
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« Reply #8 on: June 18, 2010, 07:17:30 AM » |
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Rebuild kits for $17 from HondaLine.Just did mine.Works as it should.
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X Ring
Member
Posts: 3626
VRCC #27389, VRCCDS #204
The Landmass Between Mobile And New Orleans
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« Reply #9 on: June 18, 2010, 08:58:20 AM » |
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People are more passionately opposed to wearing fur than leather because it's safer to harass rich women than bikers.  |
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Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008
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« Reply #10 on: June 18, 2010, 11:08:04 AM » |
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I had that happen two days before a long ride was to leave. Removed petcock and gutted the vaccum side. I replace the diaphram with some thick gasket material and buttoned the thing back up. Now it works just like the manual valve that everybody says to replace it with and still fits in the orginal opening. Remember to plug the vac line. I've been running it this way for over two years now. You just have to remember key on, fuel on, key off, fuel off. You'll still have on, off, and res just like before.
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #11 on: June 19, 2010, 10:36:12 AM » |
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My problem was the selector!
Turning the knob to off was never a positive feeling, the detent ball seemed sloppy and I finally discovered that turning it to off sometimes still left a leaking stopcock supplying fuel to the carbs.
I removed the tank and fiddled with the stopcock and could get a positive off where no gas flowed but it was a chancy fiddling with the knob and for me too iffy.
A Pingel was my choice and I have been happy ever since.
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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gomato@aol.com
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« Reply #12 on: June 19, 2010, 10:58:18 AM » |
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Which Pingel valve do you use and is it a direct replacment? Thanks...
GT
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Rocketman
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« Reply #13 on: June 23, 2010, 02:48:51 PM » |
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6311-CH or -CHV ("V" is the vacuum operated model).
It's direct enough. The only change you might need is that I found the need to put on a hose clamp on the fuel line. It's a good idea anyway, but the OEM can get away without it.
If you're using the -CH, remove and plug the vacuum line to the #6 cylinder intake runner, and you're good to go.
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