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ValkyrieAvenged
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« on: June 21, 2010, 05:55:24 AM » |
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I have a 2000 Valkyrie Interstate... well i found from reading posts on here why i chewed my stock rotors up at 26,000 miles...the aftermarket brake pads...so now i have another problem...i had a set of EBC prolite front rotors installed with ebc pads..because they were half the cost of OEM...but still 500 bucks!..well when i brake hard or slow to a stop..there is this awful loud "clicking" noise coming from the rotors.. it appears that the rotors were designed with these long oval slots in them..the pads are actually getting "caught" in the rotors... If i switch to OEM pads do you think this will help..or do i have to eat the cost of a 1,000 dollar set of rotors  |
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #1 on: June 21, 2010, 05:58:51 AM » |
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make sure the axel is in all the way and the noise is not the rotor bolts hitting the left caliper
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ValkyrieAvenged
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« Reply #2 on: June 21, 2010, 03:37:25 PM » |
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no such luck.. i took it up today to a different honda shop and they checked everything out and said it had to be the rotors
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R J
Member
Posts: 13380
DS-0009 ...... # 173
Des Moines, IA
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« Reply #3 on: June 21, 2010, 03:51:55 PM » |
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If you have the correct rotor for your year and model of bike, EBC rotors with EBC pads, and they are installed correctly there will be a very very slight ticking noise from the groves in the rotor on stopping.
If it is a severe racket, then take it apart and start over, you missed something.
I've been running EBC rotors on my bike, (97 Tourer) for a hair over 120,000 with no problems....
You should not run EBC rotors with OEM pads,
you should not run OEM rotors with EBC pads.
Match the rotors and the pads to the same manufacturer for best results..
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44 Harley ServiCar   |
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Michvalk
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« Reply #4 on: June 21, 2010, 06:09:43 PM » |
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Is it possible the rotors are made to be left/right? Maybe they are mounted backwards. That could cause the noise you are hearing. No experience or real knowledge involved, just a thought  |
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Valkflyer
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« Reply #5 on: June 21, 2010, 09:03:01 PM » |
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Is it possible the rotors are made to be left/right? Maybe they are mounted backwards. That could cause the noise you are hearing. No experience or real knowledge involved, just a thought The EBC rotors you're referring to can be use on either side. RJ is right, there will be a "slight ticking" but nothing loud. I've been running mine for over 20K and believe them to be a great replacement for the OEMs. |
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Tropic traveler
Member
Posts: 3117
Livin' the Valk, er, F6B life in Central Florida.
Silver Springs, Florida
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« Reply #6 on: June 22, 2010, 05:46:04 PM » |
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GL1800 rotors, stock Honda Valkyrie pads, new Valkyrie rotor-to-wheel bolts, all from HDL for around $400. Looks good, stops good, sounds good.... It's all good.  Ready to go another 100K. |
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'13 F6B black-the real new Valkyrie Tourer
'13 F6B red for Kim
'97 Valkyrie Tourer r&w, OLDFRT's ride now!
'98 Valkyrie Tourer burgundy & cream traded for Kim's F6B
'05 SS 750 traded for Kim's F6B
'99 Valkyrie black & silver Tourer, traded in on my F6B
'05 Triumph R3 gone but not forgotten!
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redflash
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« Reply #7 on: June 23, 2010, 04:25:09 AM » |
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I don't see the GL1800 rotors on HDL, just pads up the whazoo :-(
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Tropic traveler
Member
Posts: 3117
Livin' the Valk, er, F6B life in Central Florida.
Silver Springs, Florida
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« Reply #8 on: June 23, 2010, 11:59:12 AM » |
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I don't see the GL1800 rotors on HDL, just pads up the whazoo :-(
GL1800 'Wing rotors: 45120-MCA-003 RH rotor $150.33 45220-MCA-003 LH rotor $150.33 Valkyrie rotor bolts: 90105-KN5-000 {12 required} $2.50 each Valkyrie pads {OE Honda}: 06455-MV4-405 {2 required} $36.57 each All stock Honda replacement parts from the HDL online fiche as of today. The GL1800 rotors have gone up a few bucks since I got mine a month or two ago.  |
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« Last Edit: June 23, 2010, 12:03:44 PM by Tropic traveler »
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'13 F6B black-the real new Valkyrie Tourer
'13 F6B red for Kim
'97 Valkyrie Tourer r&w, OLDFRT's ride now!
'98 Valkyrie Tourer burgundy & cream traded for Kim's F6B
'05 SS 750 traded for Kim's F6B
'99 Valkyrie black & silver Tourer, traded in on my F6B
'05 Triumph R3 gone but not forgotten!
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redflash
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« Reply #9 on: June 23, 2010, 01:42:54 PM » |
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Thank you sir! For future reference, mine are still fine at 65K |
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Rocketman
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« Reply #10 on: June 23, 2010, 02:34:57 PM » |
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Is it just the single loud clunk, one time per stop? It could just be the floating calipers drifting. Either that's normal, or I've been deceived, and have a similar problem.
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ValkyrieAvenged
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« Reply #11 on: June 24, 2010, 09:35:59 AM » |
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Well right now i am waiting on the bike shop to talk to their supplier...and see if i can get another set of rotors...i am never going to this shop again they don"t seem like they are in my "corner" on this..i even promised to pay the labor to get them switched...its not a one time loud "clunk" but not just slight "ticking" either...if all else fails the idea i had and another guy had was to use a dremel and grind the inside of the long grooves to take the edge off
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #12 on: June 24, 2010, 11:24:26 AM » |
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its not a one time loud "clunk" but not just slight "ticking" either... Mine did exactly that when atire guy put the wheel back on and the axle was about a 1/6" from being all the way in.....result, rotor bolts click on the body of the caliper.......just sayin  |
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Valkpilot
Member
Posts: 2151
What does the data say?
Corinth, Texas
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« Reply #13 on: June 24, 2010, 12:01:58 PM » |
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Specified clearance between the rotor and the caliper mount/body is only 0.030 inches. It doesn't take much being out of whack for the rotor rivets to drag.
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VRCC #19757 IBA #44686 1998 Black Standard 2007 Goldwing   |
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X Ring
Member
Posts: 3626
VRCC #27389, VRCCDS #204
The Landmass Between Mobile And New Orleans
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« Reply #14 on: June 24, 2010, 12:09:36 PM » |
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All stock Honda replacement parts from the HDL online fiche as of today. The GL1800 rotors have gone up a few bucks since I got mine a month or two ago. That's what their holiday sales are for. Marty |
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People are more passionately opposed to wearing fur than leather because it's safer to harass rich women than bikers.  |
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Mr. Nuts
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« Reply #15 on: June 25, 2010, 08:15:57 AM » |
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I had a strange clicking up front recently that I couldn't find. I finally found that one of the quarter sized fasteners that hold the rotor to the wheel was loose. (I don't know what these are called but there are lots of them all around the base of the rotor). I simply felt all of them and found one was loose. It seemed to me that a washer of sorts under the fastener was causing the problem. I stuck a thin pointed bamboo skewer in between the fastener and the rotor and it went "pop!" back into tight mode...problem solved.
Sorry I don't know the right tech terms for what I fixed or what I did to fix it. But check all those quarter sized fasteners around the rotor and make sure none are loose...
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“Speed has never killed anyone.... Suddenly becoming stationary, thats what gets you.” - Jeremy Clarkson
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #16 on: June 26, 2010, 11:46:39 AM » |
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Specified clearance between the rotor and the caliper mount/body is only 0.030 inches. It doesn't take much being out of whack for the rotor rivets to drag.
With the view that they are floating calipers I would say that measurements such as that are non-starters. *** |
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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roboto65
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« Reply #17 on: June 26, 2010, 04:03:18 PM » |
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With the view that they are floating calipers I would say that measurements such as that are non-starters. Sure they float but the MOUNT that nholds the Floating caliper DOES NOT!!!!  |
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Allen Rugg VRCC #30806 1999 Illusion Blue Valkyrie Interstate 1978 Kawasaki KZ 650 project  |
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Valkpilot
Member
Posts: 2151
What does the data say?
Corinth, Texas
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« Reply #18 on: June 26, 2010, 05:47:34 PM » |
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Specified clearance between the rotor and the caliper mount/body is only 0.030 inches. It doesn't take much being out of whack for the rotor rivets to drag.
With the view that they are floating calipers I would say that measurements such as that are non-starters. *** You recently posted that anyone who works on a bike without a manual is an idiot, so you're obviously big on the manual. Check it and see for yourself, Section 13, Page 15, bottom of the page of the OEM manual. |
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VRCC #19757 IBA #44686 1998 Black Standard 2007 Goldwing |
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Valkflyer
Guest
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« Reply #19 on: June 27, 2010, 06:49:21 PM » |
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Well right now i am waiting on the bike shop to talk to their supplier...and see if i can get another set of rotors...i am never going to this shop again they don"t seem like they are in my "corner" on this..i even promised to pay the labor to get them switched...its not a one time loud "clunk" but not just slight "ticking" either...if all else fails the idea i had and another guy had was to use a dremel and grind the inside of the long grooves to take the edge off
Did you check your rotors for wear marks? Seems like if your problem was related to lets say misalignment, or a problem with pads not seating in the mount correctly, and or caliper that was slightly touching they'd show some type of issue on one side or the other.
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