Replacing caliper mounting bolts.

[donaldcc]

       New '97 Tourer owner and was looking at brake pads.  Had hard time getting good look at them so took off calipers for a quick see.  Still room on wear limit grooves, but will probably replace with OEM pads in a few thousand miles.  thought I might take caliper apart for cleaning after reading a number of posts.  Seems fairly simple.

A couple of questions. 

    Is it a good idea to take caliper apart for routine cleaning or does it really matter if no problems?

    Both Clymer and Honda shop manual recommend replacing the caliper mounting bolts with new ones after removal.  Why??  Should I replace them just because I took calipers off front?
 
    Have learned a lot from this board, thanks.

[Chrisj CMA]

replacing the caliper bolts.  As far as I know its a CYA move and good way for dealers to make a couple bucks.....I dont think any of us have replaced them things, I have had mine off 3 or 4 times and I am still using them

[hubcapsc]

    Is it a good idea to take caliper apart for routine cleaning or does it really matter if no problems?

    Both Clymer and Honda shop manual recommend replacing the caliper mounting bolts with new ones after removal.  Why??  Should I replace them just because I took calipers off front?

I think it is a great idea to take the calipers apart and clean them. Here's a picture of a caliper that I cleaned without taking it apart, and then used compressed air
to push the pistons out a little:



I'm imagining that you could leave the caliper installed on the bike, take the pads out, and carefully mash on the brake lever causing the
pistons to be hydraulically pushed out enough to clean the hidden contamination, thereby saving some steps...

I'm also imagining a giant mess as the pistons pop all the way out followed by gallons (slight exaggeration  ) of paint-eating brake fluid...

Anywho... I like to take mine apart and clean them when I change pads... and I've never replaced the mounting bolts... the manual also
wants you to avoid reusing rotor bolts - it's pretty picky about really important bolts - your call...

-Mike

[sandy]

Honda's bolt replacement idea is based on the locktite being on the bolts from the factory. When you remove the bolts, the locktite won't work right. I've never replaced mine in 113K miles. I do use locktite blue on these bolts.

[Dag]

Only thing that need to be replaced are the pin plug.


They often looks like this:


Here's a tip as you can help yourself, provided you have the tool.
You need a socket screw M6, the length is not important


Use a M10x1 thread cut on the head


Sawing the head off, file the ridge and the new pin plug are ready

[fudgie]

Only thing that need to be replaced are the pin plug.


They often looks like this:


Here's a tip as you can help yourself, provided you have the tool.
You need a socket screw M6, the length is not important


Use a M10x1 thread cut on the head


Sawing the head off, file the ridge and the new pin plug are ready

You should make and sell them. 

[Dag]

This idea came from Pekardo in Germany.

[Ricky-D]

I don't think Honda uses locktite on those bolts. Actually Honda uses locktite on very dew applications on the Valkyrie.

Anti-seize is what you should be using on those bolts and screw caps.

It's no wonder the heads get so screwed up, from using locktite.

The screw caps are simply a protective cover and a jamb nut type locker.

These will absolutely lock up in the caliper over time and anti-seize will enable removal.

Like I said in an other post, if the worry is removal get a hex head bolt and just screw that in. You could get a 1/2" drive breaker bar to tighten it and an impact wrench to get it out!

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[Chrisj CMA]

I don't think Honda uses locktite on those bolts. Actually Honda uses locktite on very dew applications on the Valkyrie.

Anti-seize is what you should be using on those bolts and screw caps.

It's no wonder the heads get so screwed up, from using locktite.

The screw caps are simply a protective cover and a jamb nut type locker.

These will absolutely lock up in the caliper over time and anti-seize will enable removal.

Like I said in an other post, if the worry is removal get a hex head bolt and just screw that in. You could get a 1/2" drive breaker bar to tighten it and an impact wrench to get it out!

***

What torque setting on my 1/2 drive....bout 20ftlbs or so?

[fudgie]

I don't think Honda uses locktite on those bolts. Actually Honda uses locktite on very dew applications on the Valkyrie.

Anti-seize is what you should be using on those bolts and screw caps.

It's no wonder the heads get so screwed up, from using locktite.

The screw caps are simply a protective cover and a jamb nut type locker.

These will absolutely lock up in the caliper over time and anti-seize will enable removal.

Like I said in an other post, if the worry is removal get a hex head bolt and just screw that in. You could get a 1/2" drive breaker bar to tighten it and an impact wrench to get it out!

***

What torque setting on my 1/2 drive....bout 20ftlbs or so?

Use a cheater bar also.

[Gryphon Rider]

This idea came from Pekardo in Germany.

Dag, do you use stainless steel socket screws, or is rust even an issue, after threading the outside of the screw, and thus removing whatever coating is on them?

[Dag]

I use stainless steel bolts.
Use copper paste on the threads

[F6Dave]

I've ridden well over half a million miles on motorcycles, and I've never had a caliper or rotor mounting bolt break, nor have I met anyone who had one break, nor have I read about one breaking.  Even if one did I think the remaining 2 rotors and calipers would get me stopped.

[hubcapsc]

I've ridden well over half a million miles on motorcycles, and I've never had a caliper or rotor mounting bolt break, nor have I met anyone who had one break, nor have I read about one breaking.  Even if one did I think the remaining 2 rotors and calipers would get me stopped.

Unless you loose one and replace it with one from the junk-bin at lowes, they're made out of stuff
that... doesn't break 

They sent me the wrong bolts with my motolights, and when I called them they were real paranoid
that I'd just find any old bolt that was long enough and use that. They specified something
ridiculous (is 11 a grade?) and I went to a fastener specialty house in Anderson to get them...
motolights sent me nice chrome ones the right length that got here within a few days, but you know,
I wanted to put 'em on now...

-Mike

[Ricky-D]

I don't think you could lose a rotor bolt.

It would start to hit something before actually falling from the rotor.

My friend on his v-twin had a rear rotor bolt really mess up his swing arm but it didn't jam the wheel to a stop, just worked like a big cutting tool.

Chrome plating reduces the strength rating on bolts so if you need a chrome bolt be sure the particular bolt is actually stated as being such after the plating process.

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