Clutch Rebuild

[Rio Wil]

I am contemplating rebuilding my clutch and looking for any feedback about the below referenced clutch disks (KG Clutch).  I would buy the spring and  unique clutch disk from perhaps HDL.  I can't imagine the metal disks or baskets having much wear, so the total cost would be about 150 bucks.  Anyone see anything wrong with this sort of cheapie clutch maintenance?


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/KG-CLUTCH-FRICTION-PLATES-SET-HONDA-GL1500-VALKYRIE-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem51938dc06cQQitemZ350367891564QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

[Warlock]

I've tried over the years to save on things like this and end up biting me in the butt. Best to spend the extra money and get the good clutch plates. They may be good, but I like the oem plates.
David

[Ricky-D]

I can't imagine why you would want to rebuild the clutch if there is no apparent problem but, that seems like a good price for the friction discs and those are the parts that wear. So, if they are what you need, I'd say go ahead and buy them!

No need to replace anything else, and a stronger clutch spring could possibly cause other problems to arise.

***

[BOZ]

The disc that may be the most important one to replace is the metal disc on the end (I don't know the name of it) with the rivets in it, as that is the one that typically goes bad and causes problems - when the rivets break. I had just over 100k miles on my 98 Valk when I had to replace the clutch, and the only real problem was the rivets had broken loose from that disc. However, replacing the friction discs and not the metal discs also makes sense, as the metal discs are likely to be fine. Just be sure to replace the disc with the rivets too. And.. remember to soak the new friction discs in oil for several hours before you install them (you'll be glad you did). 

[Rio Wil]

The  motivation is it seems the primary failure in the clutch mechanism is clutch plate B with the rivets getting worn down to the point of coming out and binding up the action of the clutch pack.  It always happens when miles from home and at very inconvenient times. To avoid this hassle, it makes sense to replace that puppy at some advanced mileage (100-125K) and while at it take care of renewing the friction disks as well, especially if a low cost after market vendor with a quality product is available...hence the question about has anyone any experience with KC Friction.  I love a good buy, but I hate doing anything a second time due to using inferior products.  I doubt Honda  makes their clutch friction disks, its likely more cost effective to outsource to a quality friction disk supplier.  I have heard that Barnett is a good product but is somewhat harsh in engagement, so that doesn't sound like fun for a hi mileage driver.  

[Rio Wil]

Thanks for the input Boz...is there any friction material on that riveted plate or just what are the rivets holding together.  Is it the same concept as a automotive clutch disk, ie, to help absorb radial torque.

[Ricky-D]

That particular metal plate assembly in the clutch is simply Honda's attempt to make a smoother clutch engagement action when taking off on the bike.

It is designed to soften the "clutch grab".

Those two plates with flat leaf springs between act like a shock absorber. The rivets hold the assembly together.  There is no force applied to the rivets except as the connectors and there is no rotational force applied to individually move the plates and separate them.

If you take the whole disc assembly including the fibers and the spring assembly and measure the height, you have the "stack height".

You could make up your own assembly as long as the "stack height" is reasonably close to the original.

This means you could maybe add another fiber disc and a plain metal disc and not even have that spring assembly present in the clutch anymore.  It may take more or less plates and fibers to equal the "stack height".

If ever I have to mess with my clutch and that spring assembly is bad, I fully intend to get rid of that spring assembly. My Interstate presently has 106k miles and the clutch is still working excellently.

***

[Jeff K]

That particular metal plate assembly in the clutch is simply Honda's attempt to make a smoother clutch engagement action when taking off on the bike.

It is designed to soften the "clutch grab".

Those two plates with flat leaf springs between act like a shock absorber. The rivets hold the assembly together.  There is no force applied to the rivets except as the connectors and there is no rotational force applied to individually move the plates and separate them.

If you take the whole disc assembly including the fibers and the spring assembly and measure the height, you have the "stack height".

You could make up your own assembly as long as the "stack height" is reasonably close to the original.

This means you could maybe add another fiber disc and a plain metal disc and not even have that spring assembly present in the clutch anymore.  It may take more or less plates and fibers to equal the "stack height".

If ever I have to mess with my clutch and that spring assembly is bad, I fully intend to get rid of that spring assembly. My Interstate presently has 106k miles and the clutch is still working excellently.

***

I rode one that had the damper plate removed. It was a supercharged Valkyrie, it wasn't too bad but it was noticeable, it grabbed fast, PITA for loading back into the guys truck.

[valkmc]

The  motivation is it seems the primary failure in the clutch mechanism is clutch plate B with the rivets getting worn down to the point of coming out and binding up the action of the clutch pack.  It always happens when miles from home and at very inconvenient times. To avoid this hassle, it makes sense to replace that puppy at some advanced mileage (100-125K) and while at it take care of renewing the friction disks as well, especially if a low cost after market vendor with a quality product is available...hence the question about has anyone any experience with KC Friction.  I love a good buy, but I hate doing anything a second time due to using inferior products.  I doubt Honda  makes their clutch friction disks, its likely more cost effective to outsource to a quality friction disk supplier.  I have heard that Barnett is a good product but is somewhat harsh in engagement, so that doesn't sound like fun for a hi mileage driver.  

I rebuilt mine last summer the disk with the rivets let loose but it had nothing to do with wear. All of the rivets pulled apart, I love the bike but this is a sad set up. I replaced that disk and some of the others but not all. It has been about a year and all is fine.

[Rio Wil]

valkmc....how many miles did you have at rebuild?

[valkmc]

valkmc....how many miles did you have at rebuild?

62,000