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Author Topic: Wheel Bearing Removal Help Needed  (Read 4290 times)
TearlessTom
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Posts: 485


Spanish Fort, AL.


« on: July 09, 2010, 11:01:10 PM »

I have been doing some PM work on the Valk. I've planned on replacing the brake lines, and all the bearings.  
I have replaced the steering head bearings, (big improvement in handling)  and the rear wheel. Starting to disintegrate and rust.

The front I have the right side out, the left side I have the bearings and center part of the bearing out but the Race is like welded itself onto the rim.  I have tried a dremmel to weaken it but it is actually chipping. I am having to chisel it out and it is not going well.

Any suggestions?

PS the steering bearings had done the same thing but they eventually came out.  The wheel is showing no signs of weakening even though parts or the race have been chipped out.

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X Ring
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VRCC #27389, VRCCDS #204

The Landmass Between Mobile And New Orleans


« Reply #1 on: July 10, 2010, 04:37:01 AM »

You might try some Kroil. Liberally apply it and let it soak for a day then try applying heat to the rim but not the bearing.  Try to find a blind bearing removal tool that will fit and remove it with a slide hammer.  You can always try to tap it out from the other side.  I use the largest socket I can fit through the hub with a couple of extensions and tap it out with a 16oz ball peen hammer.

Marty
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Kymbo
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Posts: 229


South Australia


« Reply #2 on: July 10, 2010, 06:39:43 AM »

try tack welding a piece of metal across the outer race and then drive it out from the other side .The small amount of heat will help to loosen it also.Worked for me
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TearlessTom
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Posts: 485


Spanish Fort, AL.


« Reply #3 on: July 10, 2010, 07:54:37 AM »

I've tried driving it out from the opposite side. That is why only the race is left, the actual bearings and all inners came out from the force I was putting on it. I used a large socket to cover more surface area.
 
I have had it soaking overnight with 3n1 oil, (that is all I had) , going to try it again now. If that don't work I will try to find some better oil and a butane torch.
I don't have access to a welder.

If that don't work not sure what to do next.

Its been a pain in the rear to say the least but glad I decided to do all the PM before it started showing obvious signs of weakness.  All the bearings were showing their age and were in various stages of breaking down.

Planning on a week in the Ozarks in October and want it in tip top shape.
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X Ring
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VRCC #27389, VRCCDS #204

The Landmass Between Mobile And New Orleans


« Reply #4 on: July 10, 2010, 08:20:53 AM »

Kroil is without a doubt the best penetrating oil there is.  I would use a heatgun before a torch,

Marty
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alph
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Eau Claire, WI.


« Reply #5 on: July 10, 2010, 08:23:49 AM »

my boss showed me a real neat trick, but you don't have a welder.  

what he did was to weld the inside of the race, all the way around, tip the wheel over and the race will litterally fall out on it's own!!  that was the coolest thing i'd ever seen!  what happens is the weld shrinks and pulls the race inwards on it's self.  NOW BE CAREFUL NOT TO RUIN THE ALUMINIUM RIM!! one thing you can do is bury it in sand to keep the aluminium cool, then weld it , or get a wet rag, but be careful, you're working with electricity!
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Ricky-D
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South Carolina midlands


« Reply #6 on: July 10, 2010, 09:15:59 AM »

Well Tom, you say:
 
Quote
"Its been a pain in the rear to say the least but glad I decided to do all the PM before it started showing obvious signs of weakness.  All the bearings were showing their age and were in various stages of breaking down. "

How many miles on you Valkyrie?

I also wonder if you could explain the "various stages" you mention. I didn't know that bearing age!

From what you say I gather there were no problems from the bearings, except what you are experiencing now.

***
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
Chrisj CMA
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Posts: 14785


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #7 on: July 10, 2010, 09:20:58 AM »

use your dremel tool to actually cut through the race at one or more locations and then ge ta pic to pull it away from the side of the seat.  Even if you score the side of the bearing seat a tiny bit where you cut through it shouldnt hurt anything if the rest (99%) if the hole is smooth and clean
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TearlessTom
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Posts: 485


Spanish Fort, AL.


« Reply #8 on: July 10, 2010, 08:53:42 PM »

Well Tom, you say:
 
Quote
"Its been a pain in the rear to say the least but glad I decided to do all the PM before it started showing obvious signs of weakness.  All the bearings were showing their age and were in various stages of breaking down. "

How many miles on you Valkyrie?

I also wonder if you could explain the "various stages" you mention. I didn't know that bearing age!

From what you say I gather there were no problems from the bearings, except what you are experiencing now.

***
I soaked it overnight with some 3N1 oil which was all I had at the moment. Went and bought some WD40 and a heat gun this AM, (Kroils not available) Soaked it down some more and put the heat gun to it and finally got it to break free.  I had already cut it with the dremel in two places. It was still adhered to the sides. Like I said the race broke before it would let go.

To answer your questions, I was getting a little decal wobble in the front end which interprets to bad steering head bearings.   I could also move the front wheel forward and back when lifted of the ground just a wee bit. 

When I pulled the old ones out I could feel only the slightest looseness but after putting the new set in it made a HUGE difference in the handling and responsiveness. Felt like a completely different bike.

In the rear wheel, the dust seal on the single row bearing was completely gone and the rubber seal on the outer side of the bearing itself was gone. I could see the bearings themselves and the wavy metal piece that holds the bearings in place had a piece missing.  IE : it was heading south in a hurry.

I had felt a couple of 1-2 second tremors in the seat on two occasions. Not bad but when the Valk vibrates, something ain’t right.

The double row bearing the seals appeared to be intact but when disassembled IE tore apart there was some rust starting.

The front bearings the rubber seals were very soft and separated very easily when driven out of the hub.

The left front as discussed the rubber gave way and I drove the inners out of the race.

My baby is a 1997, One of the 1st 500 made, and it has 46000+ miles. I’ve put 16000 on it the past 1 ½ years.

Oh here is the kicker….. After all the problems of getting the bearing race out I go to install the new ones and guess what….they sent me the wrong bearings.  The 5004, not the 6004 which is what I need.

I have more ordered. So if anyone needs a front set for a non 1997 model let me know.

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X Ring
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Posts: 3626


VRCC #27389, VRCCDS #204

The Landmass Between Mobile And New Orleans


« Reply #9 on: July 11, 2010, 08:48:38 AM »

Tom, I buy my bearings from the Motion Industries store on Lakeside Dr. in Mobile.  It's across the road from the Fed Ex Depot.

Marty
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TearlessTom
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Posts: 485


Spanish Fort, AL.


« Reply #10 on: July 11, 2010, 10:02:18 AM »

Tom, I buy my bearings from the Motion Industries store on Lakeside Dr. in Mobile.  It's across the road from the Fed Ex Depot.

Marty
AAAarrgggg..... tickedoff tickedoff tickedoff Oh that reminds me I need to go take my meds...

I did an Internet search and call both dealers in Mobile and every auto parts store I could think of and none had them locally.

I know exactly where that is, they used to be one of my customer when I ran routes for Kentwood Springwater way back when.  Good people.

For future reference does Motion  Industries carry the seals too?

The local stealer's wanted $50 plus for the bearings and another $20 for the seals. So did the store in Pensacola.  None had them in stock. So I ordered the seals from Direct Line and the bearings elsewhere. Should be here by my next day off. Kinda shot my weekend plans though. Oh well I had a list of honey dos I needed to get to anyway.

Where in Mississippi are you? We go riding over to THE SHED every chance I get.
« Last Edit: July 11, 2010, 04:10:44 PM by TearlessTom » Logged

X Ring
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Posts: 3626


VRCC #27389, VRCCDS #204

The Landmass Between Mobile And New Orleans


« Reply #11 on: July 11, 2010, 07:52:25 PM »

I live in Lucedale.  I call the guys at Motion and have them order SKF bearings for me.  Usually shipped out of Birmingham and there the next day.  I usually order my front dust seals from hdl and don't worry about the left rear as I did the Double Row Wheel Bearing Mod.  I love the Shed.  Next time shoot me an email, ppcshooter1(remove this)@msn.com, and I'll meet you there.  After gorging ourselves, I'll lead you over to Biloxi, up Hwy 15 then through Stone and George Counties then into north Mobile County.

Marty
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TearlessTom
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Posts: 485


Spanish Fort, AL.


« Reply #12 on: July 11, 2010, 08:07:28 PM »

Sounds like a plan.
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Tx Bohemian
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Posts: 2273

Victoria, Tx


« Reply #13 on: July 12, 2010, 01:41:41 PM »

….they sent me the wrong bearings.  The 5004, not the 6004 which is what I need.

I have more ordered. So if anyone needs a front set for a non 1997 model let me know.

Ok, I need to replace my bearings so I read, with interest, all people say about bearings and replacing them and the troubles, etc... (mine only has 18K so hopefully it will go better than this)
But this brings up a question: On another thread it says the bearing #s were 5204 and 6204 but here you state non-'97 bearings are 5004 and 6004 (mines a '99).

What gives??  Different manufactures? mis-printed?  I just don't understand??
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Al
Ricky-D
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Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #14 on: July 12, 2010, 02:17:39 PM »

….they sent me the wrong bearings.  The 5004, not the 6004 which is what I need.

I have more ordered. So if anyone needs a front set for a non 1997 model let me know.

Ok, I need to replace my bearings so I read, with interest, all people say about bearings and replacing them and the troubles, etc... (mine only has 18K so hopefully it will go better than this)
But this brings up a question: On another thread it says the bearing #s were 5204 and 6204 but here you state non-'97 bearings are 5004 and 6004 (mines a '99).

What gives??  Different manufactures? mis-printed?  I just don't understand??

Why do you feel you need to replace your wheel bearings?

***
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
Tx Bohemian
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Posts: 2273

Victoria, Tx


« Reply #15 on: July 12, 2010, 03:02:14 PM »

….they sent me the wrong bearings.  The 5004, not the 6004 which is what I need.

I have more ordered. So if anyone needs a front set for a non 1997 model let me know.

Ok, I need to replace my bearings so I read, with interest, all people say about bearings and replacing them and the troubles, etc... (mine only has 18K so hopefully it will go better than this)
But this brings up a question: On another thread it says the bearing #s were 5204 and 6204 but here you state non-'97 bearings are 5004 and 6004 (mines a '99).

What gives??  Different manufactures? mis-printed?  I just don't understand??

Why do you feel you need to replace your wheel bearings?

***

Long story but I'll see if I can shorten it:
I bought a '99 Standard (17K miles) that sat up for about 2-1/2 yrs and it developed a clicking noise in the rear after about 500 miles. Among checking things I noticed the lube in the diff was real gray and grimey. (had metal shavings in it) 
I checked the rear fluid, along with all fluids, when I first brought it home and all was good then. I figured "this is what is causing the noise."  After $280 for a 30K miles diff and 40 miles - I had a clicking noise in the rear end!!! WTF!!

Nothing I do changes the noise, whether I'm riding solo or two-up, different roads, applying the brake, under a load or not, etc...

One member here said it was the bearings and I'm inclined to believe him because there isn't much more back there that hasn't been changed.  And I do hear a similar clicking noise coming from the front also, but not as often.
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Al
fudgie
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Huntington Indiana


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« Reply #16 on: July 12, 2010, 03:30:38 PM »

Take your brake pads off on spin the wheel. I had a 'bearing failure', grinding/ticking sound also. It was real loud. On jack, spun the wheel. Noise was heard. Took rear pads off, spun the wheel. No noise. Pads back on and all was fine since then.
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X Ring
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Posts: 3626


VRCC #27389, VRCCDS #204

The Landmass Between Mobile And New Orleans


« Reply #17 on: July 12, 2010, 06:43:26 PM »

….they sent me the wrong bearings.  The 5004, not the 6004 which is what I need.

I have more ordered. So if anyone needs a front set for a non 1997 model let me know.

Ok, I need to replace my bearings so I read, with interest, all people say about bearings and replacing them and the troubles, etc... (mine only has 18K so hopefully it will go better than this)
But this brings up a question: On another thread it says the bearing #s were 5204 and 6204 but here you state non-'97 bearings are 5004 and 6004 (mines a '99).

What gives??  Different manufactures? mis-printed?  I just don't understand??

Front wheel bearings on '97s are 6004-2RS.  '98 and later are 6204-2RS.  Rear wheel bearings are the same for all years.  Left rear wheel bearing is 6204-2RS and the right is 5204-2RS. 

There are some of us, including your truly, that have replaced the left rear wheel bearing with the bearing used on the right.

Marty
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Tx Bohemian
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Posts: 2273

Victoria, Tx


« Reply #18 on: July 12, 2010, 08:00:34 PM »

….they sent me the wrong bearings.  The 5004, not the 6004 which is what I need.

I have more ordered. So if anyone needs a front set for a non 1997 model let me know.

Ok, I need to replace my bearings so I read, with interest, all people say about bearings and replacing them and the troubles, etc... (mine only has 18K so hopefully it will go better than this)
But this brings up a question: On another thread it says the bearing #s were 5204 and 6204 but here you state non-'97 bearings are 5004 and 6004 (mines a '99).

What gives??  Different manufactures? mis-printed?  I just don't understand??

Front wheel bearings on '97s are 6004-2RS.  '98 and later are 6204-2RS.  Rear wheel bearings are the same for all years.  Left rear wheel bearing is 6204-2RS and the right is 5204-2RS. 

There are some of us, including your truly, that have replaced the left rear wheel bearing with the bearing used on the right.

Marty

Thanks for clearing that up for me Marty. And I plan on joining ya'll with the double roller on the left on mine too when I change them. Need to get a spacer and have it cut down before all the work.

Al

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Al
Jess from VA
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Posts: 30481


No VA


« Reply #19 on: July 12, 2010, 08:18:42 PM »

Need to get a spacer and have it cut down before all the work.

That's what I did.

HDL  
03     COLLAR, RR.
42313-422-000    001    $25.69    $19.78
 
Part 3.

http://images.powersportsnetwork.com/fiche/images/HONDA/1999/MOTORCYCLES/2497_REAR%20WHEEL.gif
« Last Edit: July 12, 2010, 08:21:35 PM by Jess from VA » Logged
X Ring
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Posts: 3626


VRCC #27389, VRCCDS #204

The Landmass Between Mobile And New Orleans


« Reply #20 on: July 12, 2010, 08:58:49 PM »

I bought an extra rear axle with spacer from Pinwall for about $9.

Marty
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