u-joint replaced

Did the u-joint replacement this am. Took about 2.5 hours, I think I got lucky putting the boot back on. I used a little left over coolant on the inside of the boot both ends and propped the swing arm up until it was level. I tried for about 5 minutes to get the rear end of the boot on and could not so I slipped the front part way on. I then started on the bottom and ran my finger up the boot to the inside and then the outside and it popped right on. Once I had the front of the boot on, all I did was slide it on using the tabs, I spent more time making sure it was on than I did getting it on.

Did a complete rear end drive shaft cleaning and lube, replaced the o-rings and thrust washer and cleaned the lube holes etc. I also broke the rear brake cover (2nd time) while taking it off. I am going to try something different, those covers are cheap and do not last. I all ready have a different alt. cover made out of metal.

I will say that once I removed the old one I thought I was doing this for nothing because the old one seemed fine to me. My Valk is a 98 and has always had what I see as more drive line slop than other valks. I took it back three times under warranty and the dealer checked it out and said it was in specs., they did acknowledge that it seemed to have more slop that most. The old u-joint did not seem to twist from side to side and the bearings seemed ok, anyway I put the new one in and took her for a test run. I am glad I replaced it there is a marked difference. Much of the slop is gone, the bike does have fairly new wheel dampers and between the two she is much tighter.

I have tried to check the u-joint in the past but I would say if you have some slop and you can't find a reason for it go ahead and replace the u-joint. It is hard to determine if it is good or bad on the bike.