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Author Topic: Bolt Studs and Exhaust gaskets  (Read 2284 times)
Big Rig
Member
*****
Posts: 2507


Woolwich NJ


« on: July 19, 2010, 08:31:57 AM »

BOLT, STUD (8-6X40)
90035-MN5-000

I have my bike pulled apart and when I was removing the exhaust, a couple of the studs came out with the nut attached. So I am planning to replacing them,  according to Honda Direct schematic, this is what they are calling out. Is that correct? Also, should I replace all of them?

Where do I find them, and when do I need to replace them?



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hubcapsc
Member
*****
Posts: 16785


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #1 on: July 19, 2010, 08:47:49 AM »

BOLT, STUD (8-6X40)
90035-MN5-000

I have my bike pulled apart and when I was removing the exhaust, a couple of the studs came out with the nut attached. So I am planning to replacing them,  according to Honda Direct schematic, this is what they are calling out. Is that correct? Also, should I replace all of them?

Where do I find them, and when do I need to replace them?


Seems like you have the right part number for the stud... Your dealer, or Honda Direct Line (or ...) can get them for you.

If you got all the nuts off (those nuts cost about a million dollars each) and the only thing wrong is that a couple of the studs
came out too, I'd try to get the nuts off the studs that came out without boogering up either. Order new studs and/or nuts
that get messed up.

If you try to take out the other studs, you might be asking for trouble, they might break.

When I put my mufflers back on I use anti-seize on the threads, and new muffler gaskets. You have to
retighten (carefully) the nuts for the first few rides before they get seated because the hollow copper
muffler gaskets need to get squished down and settled out. I'd use anti-seize on the studs you have out,
too..

gasket - 18291-MN5-650
nut     - 90304-438-000



-Mike
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R J
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Posts: 13380


DS-0009 ...... # 173

Des Moines, IA


« Reply #2 on: July 19, 2010, 09:52:24 AM »

Take the nut off the stud that came out of the head and reinstall it.....

Nothing wrong with it.   I've reused them several times......

take 2 nuts that fit in the head portion, bigger part of stud, run both nuts up on the stem, not to the top of  the threads, just about 1/2 way, now reverse 1 of the nuts locking it to the other one.   take the smaller end cap (nut) off, reverse the nut from above procedure and take those nuts off.........   Move on to another one that came out.......

DO NOT TRY TO THREAD THAT STUD INTO THE HEAD while it is attached to the header pipe.   If ya do, 1 teeny tiny slip and you will be doing a Helli-coil on the head.    NOT fun..........
« Last Edit: July 19, 2010, 09:54:13 AM by R J » Logged

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Big Rig
Member
*****
Posts: 2507


Woolwich NJ


« Reply #3 on: July 19, 2010, 10:57:01 AM »

Thanks guys, I will do the lock nut for removal and will reinstall. I do have one broke stud so I will need to remove that one and replace.

As for the gasket, I am not 100% sure where and or how I stall them and have not found the originals. Anyone got some pictures to post location? I will check my clymer when I get home this evening.

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hubcapsc
Member
*****
Posts: 16785


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #4 on: July 19, 2010, 11:07:57 AM »

Thanks guys, I will do the lock nut for removal and will reinstall. I do have one broke stud so I will need to remove that one and replace.
As for the gasket, I am not 100% sure where and or how I stall them and have not found the originals. Anyone got some pictures to post location? I will check my clymer when I get home this evening.


They're right there, still on the head, mashed so flat that it looks like they're not there.

The gaskets are gone in this picture, but you can still see the tiny bit of red silicone I
put on there to hold them in when I was installing them in the first place. I've heard
others say they slightly tweaked the gaskets from their original round shape to a
ever-so-slightly oval shape to hold them up in there on install - that way the dab
of silicone would not be needed. When I've tried to reuse the old gaskets I've
ended up with a ticking leak and had to take the pipes back off and "do it right",
but it is possible the old ones might work again.



-Mike
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Big Rig
Member
*****
Posts: 2507


Woolwich NJ


« Reply #5 on: July 19, 2010, 11:33:11 AM »

I have that same annoying ticking leak, That is why I wanted to replace them. I just could not see the old ones. I will need a brighter light when I check them out later today.

Thanks for the pics.

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BrettB
Member
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Posts: 56

Bloomington Illinois


« Reply #6 on: July 19, 2010, 04:14:50 PM »

How do you remove a broken stud?  I have one broken...............no leak that I can tell but I would like to replace it.
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Big Rig
Member
*****
Posts: 2507


Woolwich NJ


« Reply #7 on: July 19, 2010, 04:43:11 PM »

I will let you know after I get mine out.  Grin
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Ricky-D
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Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #8 on: July 19, 2010, 05:03:48 PM »

More than likely it's the smaller part of the stud that's twisted off and if you remove the whole pipe assembly you will see the larger portion of the stud sticking out quite nicely and it's very easy to get a vise grip and turn it out.

Always use an anti-seize when returning bolts into aluminum threads.

***
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
X Ring
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Posts: 3626


VRCC #27389, VRCCDS #204

The Landmass Between Mobile And New Orleans


« Reply #9 on: July 19, 2010, 07:30:53 PM »

Sears sells a broken stud remover kit that works pretty well for removing broken exhaust studs.  Remember when you are tightening using anti seize, you can't use the torque spec.  You have to go lower.  Don't ask me how I know this.   Undecided

Marty
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