Mounting cruise pegs to crash bar loops.

[Valkahuna]

Help. I've been trying to mount Kuryakyn cruise pegs (model 7966) to the round loops of the engine guards on my 2001 IS. Can't get them to tighten up and putting my feet on them makes them rotate forward around the circumference of the crash bar. Problem is that when I mike up the crash bar, because I am in the middle of a radius of the bend, the bar does measure at 1 1/8 inch from front to back of the bike, but just about 1 inch from the engine to the outside of the bike. In other words, not round.

I am using magna quick clamps, in the 1 1/8 inch size, and have tried aluminum shims, tape, leather, etc., and they still don't tighten up right. I have even made shims to go just on the thinner area of the crash bar, but can still move them with weight on the pegs, and/or hitting bumps. Sorry to be long winded, but here comes my question.

I am thinking of drilling and tapping right through the magna clamp into the crash bar with a 1/4 x 20 SS button head screw. That should stop the turning. Has anyone tried to do this, and can you see anything negative about doing it? I figure that even if I remove the cruise pegs, I can still keep the button head screw in the crash bar.

Opinions please!!! Thanks.

[asfltdncr]

That is what I did-problem solved.

[Pete]

Use high friction tape, or rubber, What you need is friction as well as pressure.

[Dave Weaver]

+1 on the rubber.  I have used a piece of old inner tube from a bicycle withh success.

[Valkahuna]

Use high friction tape, or rubber, What you need is friction as well as pressure.

I tried that and it got all bunched up. The problem is that the crashbar is not round, and the clamp is, so everything that makes the 1 1/8 inch of the bar thicker, and stops the clamp from closing up even more, and the results are worse. Thanks for the thought and reply though.

[Valkahuna]

That is what I did-problem solved.

No problem with loosening up since it changes the way the clamp applies force? How long ago has it been since you did that? I'm glad to hear it worked and guess I'll go ahead and drill and tap the clamp and go right into the crashbar.

[fuzzy2bucks]

Have a pair of those pegs on my used bike, no screw or tape to help them attach to the crash bar.

I'm thinking of taking mine off because when I bought my second bike the dealer said that nothing should protrude from the bike that could jab or cut into your body in a crash.  Any thoughts on this?

 

[Jess from VA]

I have 1 1/8" Mag quick clamps to Kury stirrup pegs on my IS engine guards (at the 9 and 3 o'clock) and they stay put with no rubber/leather/etc.... unless I forget to put them up before riding into the shed and whacking the other bike's bag rails.  Put a half inch socket breaker bar on them and torque them down. 

[tank_post142]

fussy: you mean like handlebars?

[fuzzy2bucks]

The dealer in Medford, Oregon did not mean handle bars unless you've put stelletto bar ends on the handle bars, like I've put on my Vulcan.  Only things  protruding that doesn't need to be there
like highway pegs.

[Jess from VA]

The dealer in Medford, Oregon did not mean handle bars unless you've put stelletto bar ends on the handle bars, like I've put on my Vulcan.  Only things  protruding that doesn't need to be there
like highway pegs.

Fuzzy, speaking of things that NEED to be there, and those Kury Iso-grip stiletto endcaps..... I know of one accident where that specific endcap was driven deep into the riders thigh in an accident  (not at all uncommon in a lowside get-off to have the lowside handlebar go all the way to the lock and hit your low side thigh... HARD).  Plus, I don't know about you, but in 40 years of riding and working on my bikes, I cannot tell you how many times I have come up under my handlebars and smacked/gouged my head. This is probably a major cause of my baldness.  LOL

IMHO, I would sh!tcan those stiletto endcaps. 

[Pete]

Use high friction tape, or rubber, What you need is friction as well as pressure.

I tried that and it got all bunched up. The problem is that the crashbar is not round, and the clamp is, so everything that makes the 1 1/8 inch of the bar thicker, and stops the clamp from closing up even more, and the results are worse. Thanks for the thought and reply though.

That is why you place the filler selectively where needed to fill the gaps, not all the way around, unless needed all the way around.

[Valkahuna]

Use high friction tape, or rubber, What you need is friction as well as pressure.

I tried that and it got all bunched up. The problem is that the crashbar is not round, and the clamp is, so everything that makes the 1 1/8 inch of the bar thicker, and stops the clamp from closing up even more, and the results are worse. Thanks for the thought and reply though.

That is why you place the filler selectively where needed to fill the gaps, not all the way around, unless needed all the way around.

Thanks for the advice. I did put some "filler" aluminum shim strips into the gaps. Then I removed the thick spacer that Kury insists must be between the two clamp halves. Much better now, though I can still make them move if I push hard enough. I guess I am trying to make them as solid as on my RoadGlide, with 1 1/4 bars and clamps on straight tubing, and being on the curved bars, that just aint gonna happen.

As for sharp objects protruding from the side of the bike, that is taking it a bit far. There is a bunch of stuff sticking out from the sides of a motorcycles that will spear you. I went down about 15 years ago, and somehow my bike landed on the back of my thigh, footpeg first. I still have a hole in the back of my leg.