My first take down.

[Raverez]

So is this what a pumpkin looks like? You think after three previous tire changes and 49k miles should it look like this?



Cleaned it up a bit.

little more cleaning should do it.

How do I clean this?


This has been a learning experience.

[Valkflyer]

Grab the head of the guy you purchased the bike from, slam his head down on it and rub vigorously until it comes clean.     And while your doing that ask him if he's ever heard of lubricants.    Oh, and don't forget to slam his head down on it again!    Repeat until satified with results  

[hubcapsc]

It is hard to take sharp pictures of that stuff, this is the one I can see most clearly:



It seems like the splines on your flange are still sharp and unworn? If so, you're probably good-to-go,
but like valkflyer sez, you don't want to be seeing that dry rusty condition in there next time
you pull it apart (in 10,000 miles or less)... I'm sure you know how to search up all the threads
where Daniel and everyone goes on about what lube, the three Orings, and the re-assembly
sequence...

-Mike

[MP]

No, that is not the pumpkin.  The pumpkin in the final drive unit, ie rear end on a car.  That is the final drive flange.  VERY rusty, be sure to lube right this time, as I know you will.

MP

[Ricky-D]

Hey Raverez, it looks like the drive flange is the best of the two mating splines but like others have stated, it is hard to see in your pictures.

Mine is just like yours and I'm not worrying too much yet.
just clean the surfaces up real good, use a brush and plenty of kerosene  and the splines will come clean.

You can replace the 'O'-rings and lube the splines generously and there will be no problem.

I rode mine last June on a 2500 mile roundie and still no problem. I'm going to take a look soon and see if there is any progression of the wear. Right now I would say there is 50% wear to the flange in the pumpkin, but less on the drive flange, on my bike.

I am gathering all the parts I need to rebuild the pumpkin and already have most of them.  My only hang-up is about the special tools I'll need to do the work.  I expect to reuse the bearings!

***

[Raverez]

Both parts still look good and not worn out. I used a soft brass bush to clean the spline, but it won't fit into the other part. Took pics with my cell phone. If i spray it with PB Blaster or WD 40 would it damage anything?

[hubcapsc]

Both parts still look good and not worn out. I used a soft brass bush to clean the spline, but it won't fit into the other part. Took pics with my cell phone. If i spray it with PB Blaster or WD 40 would it damage anything?

I've made these little rat-tails out of bounty, and worked them in and out of there with the little flathead and gotten the splines
real clean. I looked at an awful final drive with gnarly hard caked on cr*p all pasted down in the splines, I wasn't afraid to scrape the gunk off with the
blade of the little flathead, which fit down in all the grooves. It was tedious, but it cleaned it up pretty well.





I don't think wd40 would hurt anything, and would help carry away the dried on stuff after you find a way
to scrape it loose...

-Mike "I'm only qualified to give shade tree advice..."

[Raverez]

Thanks Hubcap. I'll try that when I get home tonite.

[X Ring]

You could also try using pistol or rifle bore brushes.  Afterward make sure you use brake cleaner or a parts washer to flush the final drive splines.

Marty

[Raverez]

Well started cleaning the splines with small eyeglass screwdriver. found a hemostat, used the file part of a nail clipper. finally while looking everywhere, i ran across my gun cleaning kit. Used the round brush. cleaned up pretty good. Used bel ray on the splines, and drive shaft(hope that was the right thing) since I inadvertently removed it. Also put some around the wheel bearings and axle. Probably missed something, couldn't get to the computer and didn't have one in my "garage".
 The first floor(parking lot)
 

The second floor(living room)


So, I reinstalled the drive shaft, what a pain, then hand tightened the four nuts, i remembered reading to torque these last.  Then attached the wheel.  with some wiggling, raising, lowering raisng and lowering and wiggling some more, we finally got it on. Good thing my son was there to help. Then came the shocks. Ok they seem to want to be put on the same side as they came off of.
Somehow I didn't seem to have the right size allen wrench for the axle,(does anyone know what size?) I tightened as much as possible, didn't need one to remove it. Well nothing was torqued so my ride is still parked. Thanks all for the tips and advice.

Raul.  

[Ricky-D]

You have the sequence correct but you should not tighten the four nuts past finger tight prior to tightening the axle nut.

The pumpkin should be allowed to find it's sweet spot without restriction!

***

[Raverez]

I tightened them with my hand? fingers. Didn't use a wrench. Tomorrow when I get home from work I'm going to try to finish the job. Can't wait to try a car tire for the first time. One thing though. There is very little clearance between the tire and the drive shaft. ??

[X Ring]

You don't need the allen wrench to torque the axle nut.  Hand tighten it then apply your torque wrench with a 27 mm nut.  Then torque the final drive nuts.

Marty

[Raverez]

Tried that, but the axle kept turning and it wouldn't tighten.

[chrise2469]

It's 8mm according to shop talk article.

http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/TireChangeSplineLube.htm

Shop talk is a great resource as is the search feature.

You only have to use the 8mm until it starts to tighten.  This means you have lubed the axle well

Good luck hope this helps- can't help you with the darkside issues.

[X Ring]

Couldn't remember off the top of my head so I checked Kulow's Maintenance Guide in Shoptalk.  8mm.  I suggest you print out a copy to use.  I'd also suggest you get an 8mm allen wrench socket and use it on a ratchet handle until it is tight then use the 27mm socket and torque wrench.

Marty

[X Ring]

I tightened them with my hand? fingers. Didn't use a wrench. Tomorrow when I get home from work I'm going to try to finish the job. Can't wait to try a car tire for the first time. One thing though. There is very little clearance between the tire and the drive shaft. ??

There is quite a bit of variation in Valk swingarms.  I run a Toyo Proxes TPT in 205/65HR16 and can slip an 8mm allen wrench in between the swingarm and tire.  Others I know can only slip a couple of business cards.  As long as the tire doesn't rub, you're good to go.   

Marty

[Raverez]

Thanks, I downloaded the two manuals. One day when I get a working printer I'll be able to print them out.

Thanks all for your help. My next project is fork seals. But maybe I'll let a mechanic do that.

or then again maybe not.

[X Ring]

I took my forks off and carried them to an independent shop with all the parts.  Cost me about $50 labor.  Now is a good time to switch to Progressive springs.  I used the Honda fork oil and haven't had a problem.

Marty

[Raverez]

Been thinking of that. I already have the seals and a referral to a good independent mechanic nearby.