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MarkT Exhaust
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Author Topic: Carbs  (Read 1866 times)
jimnvalk
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Posts: 264


Four wheels move the body, 2 wheels move the soul

Van, Texas


« on: August 10, 2010, 01:33:20 PM »

I just picked up a Valk and it has been sitting for about a year.  When I go it home the first thing i did was flush the tank and lines of the old gas.  Put in new gas and seafoam.  When we first got her running she leaked gas on the left side.  We were able to stop the leak and she is running.  My problem nowis that i think the 2 back cylinders on the left side are not firing.  When I pull the wires of when she is running there is no significant difference.  I am really not wanting to get into the carbs unless I just have to.  Any suggestions.
Thanks in advance
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99 Valk
98 magna-sold




Jim
MOOT #610
VRCC #30250
Pete
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Posts: 2673


Frasier in Southeast Tennessee


« Reply #1 on: August 10, 2010, 01:42:22 PM »

Do yourself a favor and clean the entire fuel system, and yes that means removing the carbs and draining and cleaning the tank.

It should take you about a day, but in the long run, it is better, shorter and less expensive than any other way.
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jimnvalk
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Posts: 264


Four wheels move the body, 2 wheels move the soul

Van, Texas


« Reply #2 on: August 10, 2010, 01:45:11 PM »

the tank has already been done we did that before adding new gas,  and i am not that mechanically inclined to tackle something like this, what would having the carbs done cost approxiamately
« Last Edit: August 10, 2010, 01:47:39 PM by jamtndll » Logged

Let the Fun Begin.
99 Valk
98 magna-sold




Jim
MOOT #610
VRCC #30250
Pete
Member
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Posts: 2673


Frasier in Southeast Tennessee


« Reply #3 on: August 10, 2010, 02:08:23 PM »

Sorry I do not know what they charge.  Best guess 4 to 6 hours labor + parts.

But with the manual, a little reading and careful techniques you can do it. Just take your time, pictures if needed and notes if needed.

Use a good carb cleaner, and get everything clean clean clean, like surgery.
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Patrick
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Posts: 15433


VRCC 4474

Largo Florida


« Reply #4 on: August 10, 2010, 02:20:02 PM »

Those two exhaust pipes are not getting warm ?? I'd still try running it for awhile to see what happens.. How much Sea-foam?? A whole can I hope.. You may find it runs fine at higher engine speeds[2500+] which is a sign of low jet problems[ kinda common if allowed to set without fuel additive].. The float chambers can be removed and the jets cleaned if you're very careful,  remove the intakes for easier access..
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9Ball
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Posts: 2183


South Jersey


« Reply #5 on: August 10, 2010, 02:20:50 PM »

It's really pretty straight forward...buy the shop manual and you'll have little problem.  
We're here to help if you run into anything you aren't sure of.

Here's my $0.02...replace the slow jets...don't bother trying to clean them.  You can get 6 new ones from Sudco for ~$35.  Others will say you can clean them, but it's your time and effort if you fail to get them spotless and undamaged, in which case you get to do the whole job over again.

Good luck.  Replace all the intake o-rings, vacuum lines and caps, pilot o-rings, and carb bowl screws while you're in there.  These are available on ebay from Redeyetech...good trustworthy seller.

I've had the good fortune to do this 4 times now with other riding buddies.  Gets easier each time except for that cursed air box install.... tickedoff
« Last Edit: August 10, 2010, 02:22:30 PM by jrhorton » Logged

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2007 Rocket 3
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1fastbob
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Posts: 178


South Central Kansas


« Reply #6 on: August 10, 2010, 04:46:01 PM »

It's really pretty straight forward...buy the shop manual and you'll have little problem.  
We're here to help if you run into anything you aren't sure of.

Here's my $0.02...replace the slow jets...don't bother trying to clean them.  You can get 6 new ones from Sudco for ~$35.  Others will say you can clean them, but it's your time and effort if you fail to get them spotless and undamaged, in which case you get to do the whole job over again.

Good luck.  Replace all the intake o-rings, vacuum lines and caps, pilot o-rings, and carb bowl screws while you're in there.  These are available on ebay from Redeyetech...good trustworthy seller.

I've had the good fortune to do this 4 times now with other riding buddies.  Gets easier each time except for that cursed air box install.... tickedoff
Good advice!  Been there and done that 3 times.  Airbox is a piece of cake.  Just got to hold your mouth just right and say the correct words. LOL

Bob
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Dave Weaver
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Posts: 477


Seymour, IN


« Reply #7 on: August 10, 2010, 05:11:46 PM »

I had the same problem on a tourer I bought a couple years ago.  Buy some Techron fuel cleaner and add a whole bottle to about a gallon of gas in the tank.  Run the bike down the road a few minutes to make sure the fuel with cleaner is through the carbs.  Let it set and soak a couple days, then ride it while keeping Techron or Seafoam in the fuel.  It should free up after awhile.  If not, then you can tackle the carbs.  Do not let it sit while idling for very long or the headers will turn blue.
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stevelp
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Posts: 27


« Reply #8 on: August 10, 2010, 05:13:47 PM »

I was quoted $285.00 per carb at the local stealer. That comes to $1710.00. I did it myself.  I strongly recommend that you change both the slow and fast jets as well as the float needles. I didn't at first.By the time I got done taking the tank, air box and carb off and on several times, I got so I could do it in about an hour. I really isn't that hard if you follow the shop manual.
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Ricky-D
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Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #9 on: August 10, 2010, 05:45:05 PM »

It is premature to talk about removing the carburetors.

There are a few thing you can do without resorting to that extreme measure.

The two float bowl drain screws are readily accessible for those two carburetors.  Drain the gas and let it refill with gas that has your additive in.

Block the bike upright and let it sit for a day or two like that.

Put in two new spark plugs.

Follow the proper starting procedures for the bike!

Repeat it over if you have no success the first time.

Look at the new plugs. What do they look like?

Look at the spark plug wires. They are marked. Be sure their location is correct.

***
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
Pete
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Posts: 2673


Frasier in Southeast Tennessee


« Reply #10 on: August 10, 2010, 07:27:36 PM »

You can try removing the gas tank.
Drain the carbs.
Close the carb drains.
Using a funnel pour full strength Techron down the gas hose to fill the carbs.
Let it set for awhile.
Drain the carbs
Refill with treated gas.
See if it will run correctly.

Caveat -----  Never works for me -- cleans the carbs but does not unstop the jets.
I always end up pulling the carbs and cleaning the jets.l
Maybe you will get lucky, I never do.

You can run the Techron soak several times if you want.  Will not harm anything.

Good luck
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Pete
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Posts: 2673


Frasier in Southeast Tennessee


« Reply #11 on: August 10, 2010, 07:40:34 PM »

OBTW you do no need a full rebuild (the $1700 job) just clean the bowls, needles, jets, jet passages etc.
Unless something is broke cleaning fixes the problems, without parts.

So if you decide to take it somewhere, do not do a full parts rebuild, although replacing the jets may be a good idea since you will not be able to verify how good a clean up is done.

The last two I have done DID NOT require any parts, just cleaning.
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Ricky-D
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Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #12 on: August 11, 2010, 07:30:42 AM »

On those two carburetors it is easy enough to remove the intake risers and reveal the float bowls.

With good mechanical practice it is simple to remove the bowls and the jets and anything else you may feel needs inspecting to clear up the problem.

Removing the whole carburetor(6) assembly is problematic and unnecessary.

Attempting to do any kind of carburetor work without the proper fitting tools is not recommended and can and will damage parts that will then need replacing.

***
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
mirion
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Posts: 254

1997 Std - 2000 IS

Frankenmuth, Michigan


« Reply #13 on: August 11, 2010, 09:09:28 AM »

Happened to me and it was a pinched vacuum line to the petcock, could have happened when you put the tank back on. It ran but not good. (I was releived after getting all sorts of "Carb Rebuild" suggestions.)
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sugerbear
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Posts: 2419


wentzville mo


« Reply #14 on: August 11, 2010, 06:02:01 PM »

or.....go to the texas board and ask about a wrench party.
you supply the food and drink they supply the wrenching Smiley

good way to meet and greet and learn about your bike.


if you were near Missouri i'd invite ya over. cooldude
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