Help needed with brake wiring for IS SuperValk mod

[Gary]

Getting ready to flip over to a SuperValk and had a few questions.

My goal is to set up the SuperValk with a fender rack and short solo cruise bar. I will probably be in Supervalk mode 90% of the time but hoped not to have to perform major surgery each change.

I picked up the Standard wire harness front and rear sections for standard brake light, What's the best way to wire this thing for easy flip back to trunk mode if and when I do?

I was concerned about having to run those brake wires inside that fender each time, I'm sure there's a better way to fix up some adapter and leave the wiring in place.

What about antenna mount on saddlebag rails or other?

What about an effective shorter antenna?

Can the Standard brake light remain in place with the trunk back in place?

Can the Standard sissybar support/mount brackets remain (without sissy of course) and still put the trunk back in place?

Is there a quick remove for the sissybar mount brackets like the trunk mount mod?

Thanks for your help!

[Ricky-D]

I had the same thoughts but:

After seeing the trunk sit for over two years in my storage building,

I finally sold it with all the attaching parts.

The saddlebags are adequate for all my needs and I still range far and wide!

I don't ever plan to sell the bike.

I think trying to maintain a convertible setup is a waste!

***

[OverdueBill]

I'll try to answer a couple of these that I have done.  Yep, leave the touring light on the fender all the time.  I had to cut off about 1/8 inch of a metal "thingy" that contacted it under the trunk.  Hacksaw, file, touchup paint.  Ran the wiring up under the fender in the clips with the other wiring from the tag, turn lights.  T'd the proper connectors all together under the right side cover.  I somehow messed up the original wiring harness when I took off the lower fender section.  Replaced the harness.  $40.  I hope to never take that off again.  Wasn't needed.  Bolt holes are a real bugger to line up also.  Easy to access the underside of fender if you jack it up a bit and pull the shocks off.  Let the wheel hang.  I supported it some with a ratchet strap to avoid stress on drive train.  That's all I can help with.

[SCain]

Gary,
Just install the STD/Tourer Harnes in the fender, Turn signals and tail light should just plug into the bullet connectors already there behind the side cover, you will have to tap into the brake light wire from the interstate 3 wire flat plug. I used a bullet connector from an old wiring harness and soldered in behind the plug on the bike side, this way its a plug in and can be disconnected if needed. This way if I want to run Super Valk, I just unplug the trunk lights (3 wire flat plug) and the fender tail light still works.

If you want to use the trunk with the fender tail light, you have to trim about 3/8 off the rear bracket that holds the rear of the interstate seat. Big BF explains this in his quick trunk removal instructions on his web site.

As far as the antenna, i use a small antenna under the seat with a power booster (built in) when I remove the trunk, some use a lisence plate bracket or a bracket under the saddle bag.

As far as the STD backrest being used, the IS and STD/Tourer use different fender struts, if you change to STD struts the trunk won't go back on. I think I would make brackets for the STD backrest that would bolt to the IS fender struts, this way the trunk goes on and the STD backrest.
Hope this helps.
Steve

[BradValk48237]

Gary,

 I used the wire plug from the trunk and spliced it into the harness that came with the tailight. hard wired the new tailight into the exsisting wiring, (sorry no pics of that). I also went to Radio Shack and got a 4 pin plug for the rear speakers and spliced that into the speaker wires under the seat so I don't have to fool with going under the side cover and plugging and unplugging those OEM bullet plugs (first plug in picture).



I also did a different mod on the rails. I did and angled cut on Both holes, so I did not have to modify the front of the rails.



This way you can drop it right on, and when the nuts are on, you can barely tell its been cut. And the trunk will stay on even without the nuts tightened, the weight of the trunk alone will hold it on. nothing against the recommended mod, but this required less modification/cuts to the brackets. It wont come off even if you hit a good bump. I know because i forgot to tighten the bolts and didnt notice until 500 miles later, and only noticed when i slammed the lid. If you do this... make sure all the cuts are at the same angle!

I also ran with an small powered antenna that fits under the seat, but I hook up the regular antenna for touring, better reception and range.

In all , I can change from Super to regular in under 10 min... the only reason it takes that long is because I have a chrome rail that goes behind the seat when I run a standard seat.




Hope it helps.

Brad