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Author Topic: Steering head bearing  (Read 1843 times)
Dag
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« on: August 17, 2010, 01:59:18 AM »

I have to change my Steering head bearing.
I have never done this before so I welcome your advice.
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9Ball
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« Reply #1 on: August 17, 2010, 04:03:38 AM »

no advice, but looking forward to your video of how it's done.
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Dag
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« Reply #2 on: August 17, 2010, 05:40:01 AM »

no advice, but looking forward to your video of how it's done.




Two video cameras will be recording the operation  Smiley
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fudgie
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« Reply #3 on: August 17, 2010, 05:54:25 AM »

recheck torque at a few hundred miles. I was surprised how loose mine were. Never noticed it was loose till I took the front tire off.
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Warlock
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« Reply #4 on: August 17, 2010, 06:34:48 AM »

I have to change my Steering head bearing.
I have never done this before so I welcome your advice.
If you get ready to put the lower bearing on and don't have a press you can run all thread threw the triple tree and use it to install the bearing. I also used my old race to drive in the new ones. The top race is easy to knock out. Get a 5/8" all thread and sandwich a flat washer between two nuts to remove the bottom race. Someone had posted a picture of it. That is what I used and worked great.
David
« Last Edit: August 17, 2010, 06:38:40 AM by Warlock » Logged


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Hotrodwing
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Clarks Summit PA


« Reply #5 on: August 17, 2010, 07:18:28 AM »

How would I know if the head needs to be tightened?  With my front off the ground it turns real easy it take no force at all.
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Ricky-D
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South Carolina midlands


« Reply #6 on: August 17, 2010, 07:31:31 AM »

How would I know if the head needs to be tightened?  With my front off the ground it turns real easy it take no force at all.

If you have never messed with the steering stem there should be no reason to mess with it now.

If it did not turn easy, well that would be a reason to look at it.

The only thing to ever be aware of is if the bearings are indexed.

Indexing does not occur naturally, it is usually caused by a front end accident and also by improper application when replacing the bearings.

That's why I say don't mess with them.  They are not a preventive maintenance item.

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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
redflash
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Southern New Hampshire


« Reply #7 on: August 17, 2010, 08:14:14 AM »

My head bearings were loose at 60,000 miles. I noticed a harshness in the front end even after I rebuilt both front forks and changed the springs to Progressives. Rather than just snug them up (they did not seem indexed) I replaced them with new and no more worries for a long time to come. The stock bearings don't have a top seal, and the All Balls replacement set does, use it! I used synthetic marine bearing grease to pack the bearings and general lube up there, good chit. The harshness was gone once the job was done.
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T.P.
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Apple Valley, Minnesota.


« Reply #8 on: August 17, 2010, 10:51:16 AM »




   
   
Re: Steering head bearing replacement
 July 13, 2010, 11:12:07 AM ยป

I got the All balls kit (# 221020) and cross refed the numbers. this is the same kit used for the VTX's and ST1300, the VTX guys are having more issues then we are. I'm not going to use the ALLBalls, The All balls kit bearings are made in China by KML

the bearing numbers are 32006X and 32005X,  same numbers are used for SKF and Timken etc.

I stopped at a NAPA auto parts store on the way home, they carry the SKF brand (made in Mexico)the price on the 5X is $26.99 and the 6X is $27.99.

I called TULL Bearing of MSP and will be paying them a visit next week. ( NO bearings are made in the US) they have the prices down in the $15-$16 range.  I will post the information for ya'll to order from next week.

  T.P.



HEAD BEARINGS !!!!!   Just back from TULL Bearing of Minneapolis.   INTERESTING !!!  While the "ALLBALLS" bearings cross reference to the 32005x and the 32006x, the inside dimensions have been changed............the stock 32005x has a inside diameter of 25mm and the AB has 26mm stamped on the ring.   so a stock bearing will be too small.......Dick at Tull said, he has motorcycle, ATV and snowmobile guys bring in bearings all the time with altered specs......you can't change the dimensions after they are hardened.  so the only options are OEM or ALLBALLS.  T.P.
« Last Edit: August 17, 2010, 10:54:01 AM by T.P. » Logged

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Dag
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« Reply #9 on: August 17, 2010, 02:54:51 PM »

Thanks!

Than I just have to order some parts and get it done.
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Earl in Pensacola
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« Reply #10 on: August 17, 2010, 03:56:50 PM »

The REAL secret to long lasting steering head bearings is:  USE ONLY OEM's AND follow the Honda manual instructions to the letter.  In particular, the part about torquing, turning, re-torquinjg, turning and final torque to spec. If done by-the-book and bike is not abused, then they will last 100K or more.  PS:  I have 224.5K on my '97 tourer and am on my third set of bearings and seals
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T.P.
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Apple Valley, Minnesota.


« Reply #11 on: August 17, 2010, 05:01:02 PM »

Earl in Pensacola you are correct !!  according to the Honda maintenance schedule page 3-3 the head bearings should be serviced at 0.6 miles and at every 8,000 miles after that. It refers to page 3-20   who has done that ?  I will bet not many.  T.P.
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donaldcc
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Palm Desert, CA


« Reply #12 on: August 17, 2010, 07:12:05 PM »

to the Honda maintenance schedule page 3-3 the head bearings should be serviced at 0.6 miles and at every 8,000 miles after that. It refers to page 3-20   who has done that ?  I will bet not many.  T.P.

Wink Well T P it doesn't quite say service them, it says inspect them.  Lift up front wheel and make sure handlebar moves easily from side to side.  Seems pretty easy. Cool
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Don
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