Proper tying down of the Valk

[Bigdog]

I have read some posts on this subject. I get it about the handle bars etc. etc.. I have trailered bikes in the past even. I'm just wondering if anyone has some good pics of a proper tie down??
Thx.....Mike

[Joe Hummer]

This is how I tied mine down when I first got it...





After that, I went to the engine and saddlebag guards. 

Joe

[Bigdog]

Thanks Joe.....

[Jack]

I also tie mine at the engine guards.

[Fathertime]

  Ratchet strap from front corner of trailer, around fork leg just above the lower clamp, then back to the trailer.  i just plain like the higher angle, thinking that it provides more leverage to keep her steady over bumps.  For the back end, I remove the seat and feed a pair of nylon slings (one on each side) around the frame and leave both ends free.  Again a pair of ratchet straps on the outside rear corner of the trailer, through both ends of the sling and back to the trailer.  I like to double back the straps or sling, because as I remember from High School Physics, the stress vector is less this way.  Two straps holding the same weight makes for a stronger tie down IMHO.
   During my last vacation if I left the left side straps alone (not release them or change the length) all I had to do was release the right side and Val would settle comfortably down on the kick stand.  That way when it was time to put her back up on the trailer again all I had to do was tighten down the right side straps.  Better than messing around with two pairs of straps and less chance of her tipping over on you.
  Dont ask how I know that!   
  Oh, and for some reason, I always put the stand up after shes' tied down.

[Varmintmist]

6 straps, 1 wheel chock. A 15 dollar JC whitney needs to be expanded for the Valk, and works fine.
first 2 from the triple tree to front sides of the trailer, compress the front end about 1/3 - 1/2
next 2 from the engine guard to the same point
next 2 from near the rear hub to either the same point as the others, at a 90 degree angle, or behind. Just dont pull back if you go behind, snug them to keep the tail in one place.

[R J]

Front wheel chock and front straps.



Rear end:



TURN GAS OFF.
When you have it done properly the bike and trailer bed will move as ONE unit.  The bike will not bounce up and down on the road, if it is, stop and tighten the straps till the bike and trailer bed move as one unit.



Used this method for about 20 years in the bike recovery system, four of us Troopers founded for extra $$$$ and also something to do on our days off.

[Dougger]

RJ,
I noticed that you have round exhaust pipes. Does that change the sound much?

[Valk1520]

Is there a worry about compressing the forks and seal leaks?  I was thinking, if I needed to trailer my IS, I would set the frame on a block such as wood to firm up the bike and not compress the forks soo much.  any thoughts?

[Valkahuna]

Is there a worry about compressing the forks and seal leaks?  I was thinking, if I needed to trailer my IS, I would set the frame on a block such as wood to firm up the bike and not compress the forks soo much.  any thoughts?

DON'T DO IT!!! You want the suspension to absorb the bumps.

I get a kick out of seeing bikes hauled on trailers with the bike sitting on the side stand, or center stand, and tied down. This makes straps loosen very quickly.

As far as hurting the seals, do not pull the forks down fully. Two thirds of the travel is sufficient!

I also recommend buying a set of "Soft Hooks" to go around the fork tubes above the lower triple tree and hooking the straps into that.