pulling the bearings

[franco6]

today I got a bearing puller from harbor freight, it broke at first try. what is the surest way to remove the bearings from the rear wheel?
course I d like the homemade version
took the wheel back to the tres amigos in Alvin this morn .they cleaned the beed put the wheel back in the bath. now the steel stem was leaking. could it have been that all along? cleaned it tightenned it, no more leak. did loose some dyna beeds in the prosess but there was still a good puddle of them .
took the drive shaft off .the splines on both end were bathing in thick grease with a sheen to it. looks brand new.
do I need to take the swing arm off to get the u-joint out and back in?
it was late so I did not try just pushing the boot over.
thanks for the info ,been trying the archives but that new system seems to need some twicking

[HayHauler]

Fred, all you do is remove the boot and the joint comes out the front.  If you can, just remove the engine side of the boot.  The swing arm side is harder to get back on.  I did it with my bent, long, needle nose pliers and some wd 40 on the boot for lube.

Remember which way it comes out.  There is a long and a short spline side.  I had to come in the house and look at the fiches.

I have the bearings and seal right by my laptop bag so I won't forget to take them to work tomorrow.

I will see you tomorrow.

Hay 
Jimmyt

[Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008]

Fred go to rattlebars,com there is a write up on u-joint replacement. I've found for me it is best to get the bike back off the jack and on the sidestand before trying to get the boot back sitted on the rear(swingarm side). The u-joint will only fit in the boot one way, I think is long side toward the engine output shaft.
   As for as removing the old bearings I usually just drive them out with a large  flatnosed punch. The last one I had to do had aready started to come all to pieces and I had to grind the outer race almost into before I could get it to come out. Small grinder and stone go slow and be careful not to get into the wheel.

[Baloo]

Same method here for bearings removal. I had to replace the rear left that left me stranded along the highway last week. Did the mod at the same time and now on 2 double row bearings at the rear. Hopefully, this is the last time I need to service this bearing. I had it done about 3 years ago and did not have a lot of miles on it. I guess they are just not tough enough for the job. I too used a long punch and pushed them out. They came out with no problem.

[franco6]

alright guys -push them out- wich way? from the inside though the opposite one? is there a way to push it square(ok with that special tool !)
or do you push through the one to the opposite? sounds very barbaric.
but wait does any one have the tool in Htown ?

[Joe Hummer]

Hey Franco,

I have a long 3/8" extension for my socket wrenches that I used.  I slid it in from the opposite side and started tapping my way around the bearing.  It took a little coaxing but I got it out without a problem.  Flip the wheel over and do the other side.  I used a large socket (one that fit the outer race) to tap the new bearing in place.  

One more thing...during re-assembly...use a screwdriver to hold the inner spacer in place after you insert one side of the bearings.  Otherwise, you may be fishing for the spacer after you insert both bearings. 

Joe

[Baloo]

Franco,

As Joe said: You insert the punch through the middle of one bearing and tap the back of the bearing on the other side of the wheel. In other words, you've got to drive the bearing from the inside of the wheel to the outside. For new bearings installation, I used a 5/8 threaded rod with a few washers to press the bearings in place.

[franco6]

  just got them off  ,looked around the garage zeroed in on the the extention it worked fine i just didn t want to destroy anything. turns out the pumpkin side is fine ,the left has that dry roll that i felt riding.
turns out they re the same as the ST s so that right side one might roll again.   should the center spacer drop in the wheel well?
thanks to Hayhauler for the spare bearings .I cold be riding tomorrow again!
Joevalk the extention is great .thanks to the brotherhood the valk will never die!

[B]

Franco6- harbor freight makes a brg puller with a three prong puller (which may be what you broke. They also make a heavier duty puller set with slide hammer ($39) that works awesome. I made the mistake of buying the $17 puller and went back for the other one when I couldn't get the bearing out. The slide hammer had the bearing out in minutes.

[Ricky-D]

Most all failed repair problems related to wheel bearings are the result of improper assembly of the bearings back into the wheel.

It is imperative that proper assembly procedures put no damaging force upon the balls nor the races in which the balls run!

***

[franco6]

Ricky-D, understood. the bearings and seal are in using an aluminum seal driver and rubber mallet.
I had a joust with the boot . dcided to put the wheel back on first and readjust the jack to the front so as to offer more access from underneat. I also need to do the carriage bolt mod. so its gonna be a busy labor weekend . then the newer alternator goes to the ST 

[JetDriver]

I also need to do the carriage bolt mod.

Don't mean to hi-jack, but what's the carriage bolt mod?

[fudgie]

I also need to do the carriage bolt mod.

Don't mean to hi-jack, but what's the carriage bolt mod?

I believe you remove the oem saddle bag bracket bolts out of the fender and place carriage bolts thru from the underside of the fender.

[JetDriver]

Is that the same as the "nut-cage" mod?  If not, why would you do that?

[fudgie]

Is that the same as the "nut-cage" mod?  If not, why would you do that?

No its not and i am not sure why you do it. Unless its a cheap version of a 'bag drop kit'.

[F6Dave]

When my rear wheel bearing failed at about 52,000 miles, I drove the old one out with a piece of PVC pipe and a hammer.  I seated the new one with a large socket that mated to the outer race.  The entire replacement took less than 30 minutes (not including wheel removal).  It never hurts to put the new one in a freezer overnight to shrink it a bit for an easier fit.

This was the smaller (6204) bearing, the only one I've heard of failing.  The bike now has 147,000 miles and the replacemant bearing (from NAPA) was fine at the last tire change.  This leads me to believe that Honda may have had a bad batch from a supplier.

[franco6]

the ct tire when 2-up with travel gear, rubs against the under side on bumps and potholes .replacing the thick square nut with a slim spherical head bolt (carriage) enlarges the space for the wheel its a 205-65 ,should have gotten a slimmer tire ,but couln t find one on short notice .also run 416 s ,wich under-inflated will cause that.

[MP]

Is that the same as the "nut-cage" mod?  If not, why would you do that?

I had done the nutcage job, but two up on my 97 the tire would still hit the nut in there.  Put in a carraige bolt at Inzane in CO, and cured the problem.  I just went ahead and did it on my IS, after removing the nutcage.  Works fine.

MP

[NITRO]

Is that the same as the "nut-cage" mod?  If not, why would you do that?

I had done the nutcage job, but two up on my 97 the tire would still hit the nut in there.  Put in a carraige bolt at Inzane in CO, and cured the problem.  I just went ahead and did it on my IS, after removing the nutcage.  Works fine.

MP

I just did this on my IS as well during my first DS tire install. It's a quick and easy thing to do while you have the wheel off.

[Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008]

Just make sure you do one at a time so rear section doesn't move as realgining bolts after it moves is a pain.

[franco6]

all done and no moe swaying at high speed .hit (      ) TOO FAST! :tickedoff:yesterday. no handling problems .no numb hands either from the vibes
no wheel rubs ,yet
it was so darn smooth