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Author Topic: Shaft removal and service questions  (Read 5864 times)
Gary
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Posts: 1049


Northern New Mexico


« on: March 28, 2009, 03:14:10 AM »

Just got a new tire on my rear wheel and want to hit the rear spline maintenance as found in Shop Talk. Can't seem to find anything on shaft removal and maint.

I need some general guidance on the shaft piece.

Is it safe to assume the shaft just pulls out freely from the u-joint?

On the final drive end, does it just pull out of the final drive and pinion cup or is there some additional disassembly required.

This'll be my first time flying solo on this vs having a handfull of experts with me whipping right through it so any and all info or links to "how to's" will be greatly appreciated and desperately needed.

TIA.

Gary
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Grandpot
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Posts: 630


Rolling Thunder South Carolina Chapter 1

Fort Mill, South Carolina


« Reply #1 on: March 28, 2009, 04:43:12 AM »

Gary:

If you already have the rear wheel off, the drive shaft maintenance is simple.

1. Remove the 4 nuts that hold the Final Drive to the drive shaft tube.
2. Pull the Final Drive straight out. 
3. The drive shaft is not fastened to the Final Drive or the Universal Joint and just slides out of both.  Sometimes the shaft comes out with the Final Drive and sometimes it doesn't.  In either case the shaft pulls straight out of both.
4.  Clean off the shaft ends and the pinion splines on the coupler.  You will not be able to get to the universal joint in the swing arm.
5. Inspect the units, repair and replace as necessary, coat all splines with MOLY PASTE.
6. Slide the shaft into the Final Drive and then install the whole unit back on the drive shaft tube.
7. Put the 4 nuts on that fasten the Final Drive to the drive shaft tube, but do not tighten at this time.
8. Install the wheel and axle.  Tighten the axle nut.
9. Install the shocks if they where removed.
10. Tighten the 4 Final Drive mounting nuts.  These are done last to allow the unit to align itself.  VERY IMPORTANT.
11. Button up everything else and have fun.  cooldude

Regards,

Keith
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crazy2 Experience is recognizing the same mistake every time you make it.crazy2
MP
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Posts: 5532


1997 Std Valkyrie and 2001 red/blk I/S w/sidecar

North Dakota


« Reply #2 on: March 28, 2009, 04:48:26 AM »

One more step.  While it is out, be sure to clean out the rear "cup" the shaft slides into.  There are two little holes in the bottom, run a little wire into them, and make sure they are clean.  They allow final drive oil to come up, and lube those splines. Also, Moly "PASTE" goes on the end that goes into the Ujoint.  Moly "GREASE" goes on the rear, cup end.  They are different.  Do NOT use paste on the rear, as it will clog up those two little holes.
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"Ridin' with Cycho"
Grandpot
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Posts: 630


Rolling Thunder South Carolina Chapter 1

Fort Mill, South Carolina


« Reply #3 on: March 28, 2009, 06:27:20 AM »

MP:

Thanks for the update.  I forgot to mention the holes and didn't realize the difference between the grease and paste.
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crazy2 Experience is recognizing the same mistake every time you make it.crazy2
MP
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Posts: 5532


1997 Std Valkyrie and 2001 red/blk I/S w/sidecar

North Dakota


« Reply #4 on: March 28, 2009, 06:52:20 AM »

I wish Honda had used different terminology.  Most are confused about the difference.  Moly grease is like most of us think of grease, with a little moly in it.  Moly Paste has a LOT of moly in it, and is very thick and tacky, not very like grease at all.
But, a lot just say "use Moly"
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"Ridin' with Cycho"
asfltdncr
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Posts: 528


« Reply #5 on: March 28, 2009, 08:40:17 AM »

On my first shot at servicing the final drive and shaft, I had difficulty in getting the drive shaft back into the universal joint until I removed the bottom bolts of the rear shocks and let the swingarm drop to it's lowest point.Then the alignment of the two was a snap.
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sandy
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Posts: 5396


Mesa, AZ.


« Reply #6 on: March 28, 2009, 10:49:44 AM »

Honda's paste has 60% moly in it. I use Valvoline DuraBlend semi-synthetic grease(3% moly). Honda's requirement of NLGI #2 is the API service code needed. I use this on both ends of the shaft. My wheel splines get Bel Ray waterproof grease. No moly in it. At 105K miles, my wheel splines still look like new. Some ar mixing paste(60%) with Bel Ray to get the moly and waterproof feature. Honda's paste is not waterproof and it needs to be serviced at 8K miles. Most rear tires are lasting 15K and here's where the problems come from. Guard Dog grease available online is suppose to be great. I don't have any experience with that. Good luck. When reinstalling the drive unit, you'll have the best luck if the swing arm is parallel to the ground. Spin the wheel spline as you poke around with the shaft.
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Gary
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Posts: 1049


Northern New Mexico


« Reply #7 on: March 28, 2009, 08:53:22 PM »

Just wanted to say thanks to all that responded to my plea. Looks like everything came out O.K. so far. Most importanly, no extra parts found after assembly.  cooldude

Thanks again, very much appreciated.
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Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008
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Posts: 3025

Huffman, Texas close to Houston


« Reply #8 on: March 29, 2009, 11:23:54 AM »

I've found it easier to get the u joint back on rhe engine end by raising the swingarm up to lessen the angle I just used a ratchet strap over the rear seat to hold the arm almost level.
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SgtBunny
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"Don't be a Lemming!" - MCC

Kingwood, WV


« Reply #9 on: April 14, 2011, 03:56:36 PM »

How often should someone check/lube the final drive shaft?
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'98 Tourer

gordonv
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VRCC # 31419

Richmond BC


« Reply #10 on: April 14, 2011, 04:40:07 PM »

Unless I missed it, no one mentioned about the pinion cup seal on the drive shaft holds it in the pinion cup, and sometimes seems hard to come out. But with enough force it does.
« Last Edit: April 14, 2011, 04:44:10 PM by gordonv » Logged

1999 Black with custom paint IS

Momz
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ABATE, AMA, & MRF rep.


« Reply #11 on: April 14, 2011, 04:43:30 PM »

Check the Driveshaft and Pinion Cup whenever you lube your splines (10K), and always replace the three O-rings at that service interval.

My recomendation for Moly/Grease is "Guard Dog 525". Guard Dog is a longtime VRCC vender.  cooldude
"Carolina Bike and Trike" is also a great VRCC vendor for the (3) O-rings.  cooldude

Good luck
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ALWAYS QUESTION AUTHORITY! 

97 Valk bobber, 98 Valk Rat Rod, 2K SuperValk, plus several other classic bikes
Chrisj CMA
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Posts: 14791


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #12 on: April 15, 2011, 07:35:51 AM »

Gary, may be too late now, but I do have a powerpoint slide show that details the shaft R/R if you'd like it (or anyone else too) shoot me an email  chrisj357@cox.net
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Willow
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Excessive comfort breeds weakness. PttP

Olathe, KS


WWW
« Reply #13 on: April 15, 2011, 07:36:38 AM »

My recomendation for Moly/Grease is "Guard Dog 525". Guard Dog is a longtime VRCC vender.  cooldude
"Carolina Bike and Trike" is also a great VRCC vendor for the (3) O-rings.  cooldude


Not that it should determine your recommendation, but both those vendors have chosen long ago to cease supporting the VRCC.
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hubcapsc
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Posts: 16788


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #14 on: April 15, 2011, 08:14:32 AM »

Unless I missed it, no one mentioned about the pinion cup seal on the drive shaft holds it in the pinion cup, and sometimes seems hard to come out. But with enough force it does.


And sometimes it comes out all too easily - like 3,000 miles before your tire wears out and you have
a chance to find out about it...





Plus... I used moly paste in my pinion cup once...



Sometimes I think these people who ignore all this alchemy and just smooey up
everything with that awesome waterproof blue belray grease are onto something...

-Mike
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SgtBunny
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Posts: 427


"Don't be a Lemming!" - MCC

Kingwood, WV


« Reply #15 on: April 15, 2011, 09:10:00 AM »

Ok, I got the shaft out and lubed up...I cant get the thing back in.  It goes in far enough that the bolts start just past the holes and stops.

I can feel the shaft go into something in the end but only a bit.
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VRCC #29625
'98 Tourer

Chrisj CMA
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Posts: 14791


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #16 on: April 15, 2011, 09:18:34 AM »

sit directly behind the pumpkin.  right hand holding the final drive left hand grabs the left side of the swing arm.  Jiggle and raise the swing arm (or lower) and it will pop in
« Last Edit: April 15, 2011, 09:20:14 AM by Chrisj CMA » Logged
olddog1946
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Posts: 1830


Moses Lake, Wa


« Reply #17 on: April 15, 2011, 10:31:37 AM »

Unless I missed it, no one mentioned about the pinion cup seal on the drive shaft holds it in the pinion cup, and sometimes seems hard to come out. But with enough force it does.


And sometimes it comes out all too easily - like 3,000 miles before your tire wears out and you have
a chance to find out about it...





Plus... I used moly paste in my pinion cup once...



Sometimes I think these people who ignore all this alchemy and just smooey up
everything with that awesome waterproof blue belray grease are onto something...

-Mike


WOW, those are some rough looking gears and splines...hope they went into the nearest dumpster!!
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VRCC # 32473
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01 Valk Std.
02 BMW k1200LTE
65 Chevelle coupe, 1986 Mazda RX-7 with 350/5spd, 1983 Mazda RX-7 with FOMOCO 302/AOD project, 95 Mustang GT Convertible 5.0, 5 spd
Moses Lake, Wa.   509-760-6382 if you need help
hubcapsc
Member
*****
Posts: 16788


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #18 on: April 15, 2011, 11:46:52 AM »

WOW, those are some rough looking gears and splines...hope they went into the nearest dumpster!!

The only thing wrong with that pumpkin is the pinion cup... it is kind of stuck on there now,
my impact wrench (I have a fair sized compressor) wouldn't remove the nut... I'm going to
stand it on end, put in a bunch of liquid wrench, and try again... I was getting ready for a ride
when I found the mess, and when the pinion cup didn't come off easily, I threw the pumpkin on
the shelf and used my spare... hope I can get that thing off of there before I need it...

I replaced that nasty shaft with a new one - it got ate up in the seal-popped-out incident...

-Mike
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gordonv
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Posts: 5763


VRCC # 31419

Richmond BC


« Reply #19 on: April 15, 2011, 03:38:10 PM »

Gary, may be too late now, but I do have a powerpoint slide show that details the shaft R/R if you'd like it (or anyone else too) shoot me an email  chrisj357@cox.net

How about forwarding to Dag to post, or in the service area?
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1999 Black with custom paint IS

Valk_ca
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Posts: 75


Winnipeg, MB, Canada


« Reply #20 on: April 17, 2011, 11:41:22 AM »

Check the Driveshaft and Pinion Cup whenever you lube your splines (10K), and always replace the three O-rings at that service interval.


Which 3 O-rings are we talking about? Are they on this page and, if so, what #s?

http://www.hdlparts.com/fiche_section_detail.asp

I'm about to start taking mine apart. Got the rear wheel off so I figure I may as well go all the way. Bike is new to me and not sure of who touched what and when.
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Lawrence
2001 Valk Interstate
GOOSE
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Posts: 704


D.S. #: 1643

Southwest Virginia


« Reply #21 on: April 17, 2011, 12:09:20 PM »

valk_ca....here they are:  1.) 91358-MG9-003 (is on final flange) 2.) 91302-MA6-003 (is on dampener plate) 3.) 91356-MG9-003 (is the elusive 3-rd o-ring) 4.) 42616-MAJ-003 (thrust washer) 5.) 91261-ME9-005 (this is the driveshaft oil seal).  good luck.  by the way, you can order the o-rings from matt at: carolina bike and trike in a package deal, and save quite a bit of money that way (for the o-rings...this is the way to go.).  cooldude
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Valk_ca
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Posts: 75


Winnipeg, MB, Canada


« Reply #22 on: April 17, 2011, 08:08:37 PM »

Thanks Goose. Ordered the pak from Carolina Bike & Trike.
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Lawrence
2001 Valk Interstate
SgtBunny
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Posts: 427


"Don't be a Lemming!" - MCC

Kingwood, WV


« Reply #23 on: April 18, 2011, 07:52:10 PM »

I ended up putting the shaft in first, then sliding the rear end onto it.  Worked like a charm.
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VRCC #29625
'98 Tourer

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