adjusting driving light-cobrabar lights and markerlights ...........

[FLATSIX]

Hello Guys!

I finally finished the "light-work" on my Lady, that means :

-installed a cobra-lightbar = 2 lights of about 55w each
-installed 2 markerlights under the bar that protects the motor = 55w each

now when in daylight and with much sun I look to my bike from the front, then the next seconds I see black spots everywhere through my eyes, should I go to an eye-specialist ?

Especially those small markerlights (hallogene) are spectacular - not to believe what kind of lightoutput they give, and they are now directed horizontally , so they don't shine direct in my eyes.

HOW IS THE BEST TO ADJUST THESE 5 LIGHTS (at evening) so that their beam shine the same and equal / pair of lights.

(when motor is on without lights and I put the ormal driving light + 1 set of my lights then I hear that the motor has to work , rpm drops about 100 rpm (without = 1000rpm - with 3 lights on = 900 rpm)

Is this normal and when I want to drive always with a pair of them on, can this in time cause failure of my alternator)? WHAT ARE YOURE EXPERIENCES WITH DRIVING WITH 3x 55W costantly?

Thanks,
 

[Ricky-D]

I think that the majority on this forum would emphasize that a relay is very important to protect your Valkyrie wiring system. Maybe even two relays!

If you have not done that, don't turn them on too much!

***

[FLATSIX]

Ricky-D, of course I have put for each set of lights 1 relay + 1 fuse (30 amp). I even have used thick wire (2.5 mm2) to be sure.

Is it normal that the motor idle drops by 100 rpms and that you hear that he must work when 3 lights are on at idle?

Voltmeter also drops a little.

[JetDriver]

You mentioned adjusting the beam-  I go to a dark road and/or a parking lot at night with my wrenches.  In the parking lot (try to have the bike as level front to back as possible, and the beam trajectory to be level), point the bike at a building.  You can look up the regulations for aiming headlights, if you want to get the legal height, but I just try to get the side lamps to match the height on the building as the stock mc light.  If you still want to play, go to a dark road and further adjust them left or right.  I try to adjust my left lamp so it doesn't trespass too much into the oncoming lane.  I try to adjust my right lamp with the idea of seeing the side of the road so animals will show up quicker.  It's a pain in the butt- leave the light bracket a little loose, sit on the bike as though you were riding it, reach around and adjust the beam.  Get off the bike and tighten the bracket.  Get back on the bike and make sure things didn't move as you tightened it down.  Repeat as necessary.  Ride the bike home and see what you think.  If you don't like it, return to step "A." 

[FLATSIX]

O.K. Jetdriver, this is what I had in mind to do.

Do you have a drop in rpm when you put your lightbar on - mine drops about 100 rpm, is this normal.

Can this affect the alternator when it must work all the time to get the current for the lightbar?

[JetDriver]

O.K. Jetdriver, this is what I had in mind to do.

Do you have a drop in rpm when you put your lightbar on - mine drops about 100 rpm, is this normal.

Can this affect the alternator when it must work all the time to get the current for the lightbar?

I have wired my lights right in with the main headlight.  I have no separate on/off switch for my two 55 amp running lights, therefore I cannot tell if there is an rpm drop associated with my lights or not.  Just with regular maintenance, I have adjusted my rpm to run at 900 plus or minus.

[X Ring]

JetDriver I hope you're using the headlight to trigger a relay that supplies power to your driving lights.  If not you're in danger of burning out your starter button.  It's not designed to handle that much power with 35 watt lights and definitely not with 55 watt lights.

Marty

[JetDriver]

JetDriver I hope you're using the headlight to trigger a relay that supplies power to your driving lights.  If not you're in danger of burning out your starter button.  It's not designed to handle that much power with 35 watt lights and definitely not with 55 watt lights.

Marty

Thanks Marty,  I thought about what I said after I posted and figured somebody would catch it.  It's been awhile, so my facts might be a little off, but I wired a relay into the starter switch and the actual lamps into the high beam of my stock headlight.  My running lights mimic my stock light exactly- when I turn the key on, all 3 lights illuminate,  When I hit the starter, all 3 lights go dark.  When I turn the brights on, the running lights go to bright along with the main headlight.  Whatever I did, it must be ok, because it's been long enough ago that if it was going to fry, it would have by now.  You're right, though- that's a CRITICAL detail.

[FLATSIX]

I definitely think that there is something wrong with the working of my 2 pairs of lights : cobra and spotlights under the engine .

When machine idles at 1000 rpm and put my cruising light on, not much happens with idel rpm.

When I turn either the cobra's or the markerlights on, then you see a drop of about 100rpm and you hear the motor "working" .

I checked all connections - checked my 2 relais for connections - all must be fine.

I used 2.5mm2 thick wire , I put on each couple of lights a relay, between battery and relay I have put a fuse with 30A.

The lights do work fine, only that the motor suffers when I put them on, the battery is not old, a few years only and was most off the time on a charger.

Does anyone might know what the problem could be, if there is a problem?

[JetDriver]

To me, it doesn't sound like a problem.  When you turn either set of lights on, you've just asked your alternator to provide more electricity.  It takes more effort for the alternator to do this, so the alternator then asks the engine for more power.  The engine complies, but you didn't add any gas.  (this is the part where you hear the engine working)  If the engine has to work harder, but no additional gas is provided, the rpm will drop.  What you're describing sounds to me like everything is working perfectly.  What you may want to be aware of is the possibility that when you are at idle with the lights on, you are asking for more power than the alternator can provide.  The battery would then provide the extra power that is needed, which means you would be draining your battery.  Bring the engine up off of idle, and the alternator will be very capable of providing the extra power to run the lights and even re-charge the battery.  Short periods of that won't cause any problems, such as at a traffic light.  If you would be in stop and go city traffic, where that would be happening frequently, you would want to turn your lights off.  Install a voltmeter of some kind, and you'll know if that is happening.

[FLATSIX]

Jetdriver,

I only wonder if others with lightbars have the same phenomen : the drop of 100 rpm.

I heared already from one person that when putting the lightbar on there may not be a noticable change in rpm or sound of the motor?

What is now right - mine drops and is working at idle - is this normal?

Please lightbarriders, tell me what yours does when you put the lightbar on at idle.

[Challenger]

My lightbar on my 00 STD  will drop the rpm's a little at idle when switched on. Not quite as noticable when engine is warmed as when it is cold. It takes power to produce power and you are asking for another 8 amps or so with driving lights. 

[FLATSIX]

Mine does the same when I put my 1 driving light on, you see and hear a very slight difference, but when I put on the lightbar then the motor starts to act as if it  is working hard + 100 rpm drop.

I think this is not normal at all.

Could it be a bad battery (although fully charged) or the alternator that does not produce enough (only 30000 km) ?