Need "While I'm There" suggestions - I'll be pulling rear end apart

[Walküre]

g'morning all...

I have found a set of Interstate bags and mounts, (thanks, Toby!!), and HitchDoc receiver hitch (thanks, Robert!!). I'm also getting a Hankook K106 tire. Jack adapter is mounted, have the jack, Stebel air horn, relay, Sssoooooo....

I know to check and grease the splines, when I have the wheel off, and to go ahead and get rid of the nut cages. The bike has 11,000 gentle miles on it, so hopefully no surprises.

What else would you recommend I do? I will have it pretty well stripped down back there, to figure out the bag mounts, and replacing the tire. So, anything that I can do NOW instead of later, I'd like to do. I haven't found anything that hasn't been talked about, and instructions given, here in the forums, so I'll do my research, but a leg up, is a leg up.

Also, recommendations on the bearing mod - how difficult, how necessary, and worth it?

Thanks,

Roger

[Bruce J.]

You probably know about checking/lubing both ends of the drive shaft. The back end of it can be easily overlooked. I learned the hard way at 55k miles. After that, I checked the yoke and it is still good. At 11K, I doubt that you would have any issues with it.

I've read the thread about the double bearing mod and it seems to be a lot of work. I check both bearings every time the wheel is off, looking for wear and roughness. They are both still good at 60K. I figure that a new one, if it became necessary, would last thru the probable life of the bike, at least for me. Of course, if it went bad suddenly, during a trip, I'd be unhappy.

I think that it is important to not work real hard at cleaning any areas where bearings are mounted. Sometimes a little greasy dirt is all right.

[Shivesy]

I would pull apart any electric connections that you run into and use a good electronic cleaner and grease.

[X Ring]

I've read the thread about the double bearing mod and it seems to be a lot of work.

The only difference between changing the bearing and performing the Double Row Wheel Bearing Mod is getting the spacer shortened.  Other than that it is the same amount of work and not very hard. 

Marty

[Walküre]

Even easier, since I own a metal lathe.

Keep them coming! I won't be thanking after every post, but be sure I certainly appreciate any and all suggestions.and don't assume I know any thing - I'd rather hear something I already know, than miss something I don't!

Thanks again, all...

Roger

[NCGhostrider]

Be sure to have a supply of cold brewskys ready to aid in your work.  But if they get too friendly, shortly after, they will disappear, and will cease to help you in your project.  Then you will have to wait until you get more!  

I am hoping to tear mine down this weekend also.. its been a while, and my rear tire is shot.  Good Year TT is waiting to be put on...  

[sugerbear]

replace the dampers w/polyurathane (someone will chime in with the website)
can't think of his name right now.

put a new 90deg metal valve stem in.

 the bag drop kit thing(make your own) i used carriage bolts from the inside
chrome spacers from a hardware store

check the shock bushing(get new ones from the same guy for the dampers)

that all i can think of now

have fun

[John U.]

Do a search for "Shockbushing Gary" He used to go by "Pruor".
Check out Patchboy for the 90* tire valve stems, tire plug kits, weights if you do you own mounting and balancing.

[valkyriemc]

Go to the classified section of this board and search; Valk wheel dampers
He has them for sale there.

[houstone]

If she's high miles, and you haven't done it, I suggest rebuilding the rear brake caliper, and of course changing the fluid.  It'll be loose, and it's really not hard.  The kit is cheap, and it makes a big difference in feel and effectiveness if it has never been done.
Jeff

[fudgie]

Congrats on the Hankook K-106.  You wont be disappointed!

[gordonv]

replace the dampers w/polyurathane (someone will chime in with the website)
can't think of his name right now.

Other than being better/longer lasting material, why would you change out good dampers?

[sugerbear]

because the factory damper wear out quickly, and your "in there anyway".

[JetDriver]

With "11000 gentle miles," I'm not sure I'd put too much emphasis on the dampers.  Right now, we're thinking it's a good idea to pull apart and inspect the back-end every 10,000 miles.  If there's nothing wrong with the current dampers (and there probably isn't), I think I'd wait until some other time I was "in there anyway."  On the other hand, it may still be a good idea to get a set of dampers from Gary and store them until they are needed- I get the impression Gary's not planning on making them forever. 

[fudgie]

I got 61k on my Tourer and dampers were fine at 52k. I'm kinda hard on my rear end.

[B]

At $5 a pop I'd replace the left side back bearing and front bearings. Only 11k but 10yr old grease. Ck the right rear (those run about $48)... Any doubt - change it out.

[Shockbushing Gary]

On the other hand, it may still be a good idea to get a set of dampers from Gary and store them until they are needed- I get the impression Gary's not planning on making them forever. 

You're right here- interest has dwindled until the bunch I made this year will likely be the last. I have less than 10 sets right now, and no plans to make more.... 

[Walküre]

Gary - whew, found you just in time, then! Just sent payment for the dampers and bushings, that I emailed about yesterday.

Not sure if I'll need them right away, but have learned, 'tis FAR better to have them, and not need them (yet), than need them, and not have them! I'm pretty sure I'll put them on, anyway, since they have such rave reviews.

B - I'm going to be doing the bearing mod, while I have it apart. I've done a LOT of mechanical rebuilding over the years, and sounds like one of the best (read that necessary!) mods on the Valk that I have seen...

Thanks again,

Roger