Dyna 3000 bewst setting

[fast black]

Ok, here the deal, I just got done going through the old tech archives and read everything I could find on the Dyna 3000.  I just ordered one  online for my bike.  I have a  98 standard with no modifications done  to motor or exhaust.  In ya'll's opinion what is best setting.  I don't mean rev limit as I know I will go at lowest  limit.  I don't think I have hit 6000 rpms  a half dozen times since I've had the bike, which is about seven years now.  I was going to put an interstate icm  in but it seemed like I always got outbid on ebay,  and heck I only paid less than $200. for brand new unit.   
I assume the new unit will recommend the setting for me , but I  sure would like to hear what ya'll recommend.
thanks and adios 
fast black

[YardBoy]

Setting 7 or 8 running premium fuel, or 3 running regular.  Try em and opt for the one thats does best for you.  Setting 7 got me 40mpg on one tank and the next tank over 3 days and 3 warmups netted 39.01mpg keeping the speed below 65mph.  Setting 3 makes about as much power but does'nt get the fuel economy.

[fast black]

Thanks Yardboy.  I thought more people would have had an opinion  on best setting.  It seems like most discussion on unit  is when it is used with a trigger wheel.  At least you  gave me your personal insight.  Maybe we are the only two using this unit on a stock bike.  I had pretty much decided to go with interstate icm and interstate carb springs, but like I said earlier, every time I bid on used unit I got outbid big time so decided to go  this route.  Are you concerned with reliability issues?   How long have you used your unit?
thanks  for all your help.
fast black

[YardBoy]

I think theres a lot of them, its just this subject was discussed back in the 2002 2003 time period.  Setting 7 I believe was referred to as the road curve.  This setting with Premium fuel has lots of grunt and some folks said made the most everyday useable power.  My butt dyno says that is probably correct.  If I were drag racing I would go for setting 8.  Above 4000rpm that setting is strong, below 4000rpm curve 3.4 or 7 will pull harder.  I rarely find the need to go above 6000 with most of my driving below 5000.  My 98 standard using regular grade fuel and setting 3 is nearly as strong but gives up some fuel economy.   

[chief120865]

Good input. I just bought the dyna as well, good price. I have Cobras with a K/N. Any inputs on if the setting would be any different than what was suggested above?

[Willow]

depends entirely on what you want to achieve; what mods you have in the fuel delivery and exhaust systems; and whether you're willing to burn higher octane fuel.

Don't take anyone's recommendation as the last word.  Decide whether you're after better mileage or more power (or a compromise) and then cycle through the settings over a period of weeks and decide what works best for you.

I run curve 5 and have the rev limiter set aggresively high.  I have TBR 6X6 pipes and run 87 octane.  I've been pleased for a little over 100,000 miles.

YMMV      

[garyr]

You should go with what dyna says to use and start from there. On your stock standard you don't want to go past 5. 

When I set up mine I ran it down a 1/4 mile track. I went up 1 number at a time. When the time and power fell off I stopped. I have mine set at 5 with only 3 baffles drilled out.

It's not about the higer the number that faster or better the bike will run. What I do like about the unit is now you can override the rev limit and put it were it should be at the end of the tach guage red line range. This gives you a huge advantage if your racing, even for fun another valk when he hits the rev limiter which is set way to low you just pull away.

If you want to feel more power out of the bike with minimal effort and money to go with the dyna. Install Nology spark plugs-K&N air filter with the pre-filter left in-Interstate carb springs-Shell 93 oct gas. 

[YardBoy]

The setting that makes the most overall torque increase across the rpm range is the objective, just make sure theres no detonation.  More timing thats making more torque without detonation is good, premium fuel is a must.  Most folks want to think in terms of maximum peak horsepower when in fact its the increase in overall torque that wins races and puts the smile on the face.  I hate to use a dyno sheet from a six degree wheel but I think it will show what I'm trying to say when comparing it to the posted Dyna 3000 ignition curves.  My thanks to Tim Skelton and the others that posted this information years ago.  Back to my point, the six degree wheel raised torque across the rpm range but notice the dip at at about 3600 rpm, then notice on the posted Dyna 3000 ignition curves chart the timing on the interstate is flat at about 21 degrees from 3600 to 5200 rpm and standard 4200 to 5200 from there the timing is the same for both machines.  What the Dyna 3000 will do is produce gobs of increased torque as low as 2200 rpm and I have not noticed any drop off up to 6000 rpm nor do I see any dip above 5000 rpm on the posted dyno chart with the wheel advanced timing.  As stated years ago these machines like more timing at lower rpm and not so much at high rpm.  As shown on the trigger wheel dyno sheet you aint givin up nothing up to 6k, but its my humble belief you're leaving a lot on the table.  Folks that tried both I suspect had starting problems and/or had to use the retard to cancel out most of the wheel advance.  I'm not saying in anyway that they can't be made to work together, they can, but now we're getting on the edge of detonation or other drivability issues.  Give me 3 lengths out of the hole, catch me if you can.                

 http://www.timskelton.com/valkyrie/tech/trigger_wheel.htm

http://timskelton.com/valkyrie/tech/trigger_wheel_plus_dyna3000.htm

[nortman]

if I understand this right.  I can run a 6' trigger wheel, set the retard at 6' with a switch to negate the trigger wheel, run curve 5 or 7 or what ever performs best, then when I am just cruising down the superslab on the way to work, cut out the retard to get back the extra 6' of advance to get good mileage at a 75 mph cruise.  Is this train of thinking correct. 

[YardBoy]

Should work, but I don't know about starting if you forget to start it on retard.  Might need a checklist just to get her going.  Just kidding.

[Willow]

I have a Dyna 3000 on order for installation on my stock '03 standard with K&N filter.  In preparation for a long trip this summer, what suggestions are there for the maximum fuel economy?

I'd suggest you experiment finding what works best for your bike and you.  I've run curve 5 for a lot of miles and it works for me.

I have my rev limiter set at 8000.

[Farther]

Well, I got the Dyna 3000 in the mail yesterday, all the way from England, and installed it today.  The bike turns over but doesn't fire.  I ran the battery down trying to get it to start so it is on the charger.  Initially the LED stayed on without blinking.  Then on the second try after shutting off the ignition the LED blinks once but does not blink while cranking.  Tomorrow I will try again with a charged up battery.  The forcast is calling for rain and snow too.  Anybody with Dyna 3000 have any suggestions? 

[YardBoy]

Does your bike have an after market trigger wheel?  If so thats where I would start.  Its my belief that a great percentage of reported problems has been due to trigger wheels and not the Dyna 3000.  If you get her going that setting 5 Willow spoke of is strong, however I still think 7 is the one my machine likes the best for economy and power.  At least the transmission shifts smoother on 7 and don't ask me how that relates to timing.  I wish you good luck with the Dyna 3000.

[Farther]

Does your bike have an after market trigger wheel?

  The previous owner didn't know so I assume that the trigger wheel is stock.  The good news is that the bike started right up today with the charged up battery.  The other difference was that I had originally tried to start the bike yesterday with the Dyna on #5.  Today it started right up on #1 with the charged up battery.  The Dyna did blink while the engine cranked and fired.  Without removing the front cover to get a look at the trigger wheel, what should I be careful about when selecting the numbers on the Dyna.  One additional question, I didn't get any additional wire to hook into the white ground to utilize negative advance.  Should that white wire be grounded if I don't have a supercharger or nitrous?

[matt]

good luck with your dyno u might want to carry the original as dyna are known to have problems especialy if it was built in the last 3 yrs  to answer your question nothing needs to be hooked to that ground wire unless you want to ground it

[fstsix]

Farther, do not ground the white wire, it will kick into retard mode. just let it hangout.

[Friagabi]

Tha ground wire is supposed to go to a boost switch or a manual switch. The purpose is to cause the ign timing to retard during either tubo or super charger boost in the intake manifold. If you do not apply retard during boost you run the risk of "ping" killing your engine. This is also why turbo chargers use intercoolers. If you are not using a charger to boost intake pressure then leave it unconnected. Dyna solves many problems on a turbo or super charged system but I decided that for a daily rider a IS mapped module and IS springs would cause no serious engine damage. Do an ECT mod if you want more pop off the line. If I was concerned about fuel use I would not ride a Valkyrie. I would rather play on a mountain road than a drag strip anyway. Any Valkyrie will go fast enough to kill anyone on a mountain road. Now how good is the rider? Do you ride better than me? Can you control your bike better than I can control mine. How close to the edge will you ride? How long? Can you survive learning your and the bikes limits? Do you do as well up-hill as well as down-hill? Are you willing to teach another Valk rider that is having trouble doing as well as you do? It does not take long to learn how to tear down a 1/4 mile of road. Come and ride the back roads with me, I will learn from you.

[Farther]

If I was concerned about fuel use I would not ride a Valkyrie. I would rather play on a mountain road than a drag strip anyway. Any Valkyrie will go fast enough to kill anyone on a mountain road. Now how good is the rider? Do you ride better than me? Can you control your bike better than I can control mine. How close to the edge will you ride? How long? Can you survive learning your and the bikes limits? Do you do as well up-hill as well as down-hill? Are you willing to teach another Valk rider that is having trouble doing as well as you do? It does not take long to learn how to tear down a 1/4 mile of road. Come and ride the back roads with me, I will learn from you.

  ?????

[fstsix]

If I was concerned about fuel use I would not ride a Valkyrie. I would rather play on a mountain road than a drag strip anyway. Any Valkyrie will go fast enough to kill anyone on a mountain road. Now how good is the rider? Do you ride better than me? Can you control your bike better than I can control mine. How close to the edge will you ride? How long? Can you survive learning your and the bikes limits? Do you do as well up-hill as well as down-hill? Are you willing to teach another Valk rider that is having trouble doing as well as you do? It does not take long to learn how to tear down a 1/4 mile of road. Come and ride the back roads with me, I will learn from you.

  ?????

+ 1  ???

[Farther]

Saterday, after charging the battery and riding the bike for about 50 miles I put it away for the night.  With the Dyna on #1, the bike seemed to top out at about 110 mph.   Sunday morning I went out to start the bike and, same thing, it cranked but would not fire.  I took the 5 month old battery back to the parts store for a free replacement.  I won't be back on the bike for two weeks.

[fstsix]

Farther, just for the sake of sanity if it dose not start again, unplug the Dyna and plug in the stock unit should only take 5 minutes and see what happens.

[Farther]

Went to start the bike today and it cranked but did not fire with the Dyna.  Battery started to slow down so I stopped and did as suggested and plugged the stock ICM back in and the bike fired right up.  So I would guess I have a bad Dyna 3000.

[Willow]

Went to start the bike today and it cranked but did not fire with the Dyna.  Battery started to slow down so I stopped and did as suggested and plugged the stock ICM back in and the bike fired right up.  So I would guess I have a bad Dyna 3000.

Have you confirmed that you have the OEM trigger wheel?

[Farther]

I haven't confirmed by pulling the front cover.  The previous owner said not, but I am the third owner so I won't really know for sure until I pull the cover.

[fstsix]

Before you give up on your Dyna, My problem has been the plug itself, you said it ran one night but now it wont start? from what some have posted they have tightened the female part of the plug harness so the pins make better contact, this what i may have to do also if it becomes Possessed again, i have the poor mans trigger wheel, stock with the Key filed before i had the Dyna, so it looks stock but it had to be set back before the Dyna was installed. if you have the time plug it in again push it in firm and give it a shot, i have been on the side of the road and had to unplug and plug in again and it cleared up.

[YardBoy]

I now believe setting 7, retarded 2 or maybe 3 degrees to be the very best timing curve for torque idle to redline.  Twist the throttle in any gear 2000 to 6500 rpm and feel the power.  This finding was  posted in the old tech archives May 2007 by bob32 "While I agree with the numbers of curve 8 no retard and the fact that my curve 7 -2 retard is over the magic 26 degrees I still find the bike is much more lively than any other setting I have tried (including curve 8 no retard)". 

I installed an off/on switch in the Dyna ground circuit thinking I will go with an Air Lake trigger wheel for increase superslab economy as suggested by others in this thread.