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MarkT Exhaust
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Author Topic: Headlight Bulb Life Expectancy  (Read 4184 times)
Disco
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Armed Man=Citizen; Unarmed Man=Subject

Republic of Texas


« on: October 01, 2010, 08:35:42 AM »

I replaced my OEM bulb with a PIAA Extreme White Plus at 6,500 miles in April '08. 

The PIAA high beam burned out 9 July 2010 at 24,850 miles and a new Sylvania SilverStar was installed. 

The SilverStar high beam burned out 29 September 2010 at 33,260 miles.  Is this typical, or do I have a problem somewhere?

Going back with a SilverStar Ultra.  Thanks, HayHauler!
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2000 Bumblebee "Tourer", 98 Yellow & Cream Tourer, 97 Rescue blower bike
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Joe Hummer
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« Reply #1 on: October 01, 2010, 08:46:15 AM »

(Now watch my headlights will be burned out soon...) but I haven't had to change my Silverstars in over a year.  I have heard that vibrations kill them quickly.  Maybe the roads in TX are too rough for the bulbs. 

Joe
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1999 Valkyrie Interstate
You pay for the whole bike, why not use it Jerry Motorman Palladino
fudgie
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« Reply #2 on: October 01, 2010, 10:02:48 AM »

Heard SS dont last long but I have had good luck. Mine lasted almost 4 years. My new SS in the brown package is far brighter then the grey package. Still carry the oem in the bag incase.
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Disco
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Armed Man=Citizen; Unarmed Man=Subject

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« Reply #3 on: October 01, 2010, 10:41:34 AM »

Quote
I haven't had to change my Silverstars in over a year.

You shouldn't have said that out loud, Joe. 

Quote
I have heard that vibrations kill them quickly.

That was my first thought.  We rode 31 most of the way from South Bend to Traverse City on the way to InZane X and I blame that stretch for the broken, practically new, Memphis Shades mounting bracket.  Mile after mile of violent jarring...  Talk about sore wrists. 
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2000 Bumblebee "Tourer", 98 Yellow & Cream Tourer, 97 Rescue blower bike
22 CRF450RL, 19 BMW R1250RT
78 CB550K
71 Suzuki MT50 Trailhopper


VRCC 27,916                   IBA 44,783
Baloo
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Rimouski, Canada


« Reply #4 on: October 01, 2010, 11:34:25 AM »

Quote
Heard SS dont last long but I have had good luck

+1 Here... My 2 years old Ultra Silverstars are still up and running...
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Brad
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Reno, Nevada


« Reply #5 on: October 01, 2010, 11:44:26 AM »

The brighter you go the quicker they burn out.  Also never touch the glass part of the bulb that can cause them to break when they get hot.
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Ricky-D
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South Carolina midlands


« Reply #6 on: October 01, 2010, 11:56:00 AM »

I've replaced the bulbs in my Interstate with 60/55 watt. The original are 45/45 watt.

I don't see any difference in brightness from the standard oem bulbs.

The important consideration is the current draw on the wiring.

You sure don't want to get bulbs that will cause the wiring to melt the insulation and short out the harness.

The starter switch is also jeopardized.

Brightness is directly related to current draw in incandescent bulbs.

Be careful!

***
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
RP#62
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Gilbert, AZ


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« Reply #7 on: October 01, 2010, 06:49:39 PM »


The important consideration is the current draw on the wiring.

You sure don't want to get bulbs that will cause the wiring to melt the insulation and short out the harness.

The starter switch is also jeopardized.


***
True about the wiring on all models and the switch on the Standard and Tourer.  Makes no difference on the Interstate switch as the IS start switch only see's headlight relay current.
-RP
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John U.
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Southern Delaware


« Reply #8 on: October 01, 2010, 07:14:41 PM »

Installing relays in the headlight wiring of Standards and Tourers, (or one relay and a couple of diodes) will save you from an expensive starter switch meltdown.

Spoken like someone who was smart enough to do this mod before
such a meltdown? Hell no, I'm wiser but broker for the experience.
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MarkT
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« Reply #9 on: October 03, 2010, 12:48:40 AM »

Installing relays in the headlight wiring of Standards and Tourers, (or one relay and a couple of diodes) will save you from an expensive starter switch meltdown.


John is right.  I added relays 12 years ago and have been running a 130/90 bulb since.  No substitute for watts (except maybe the expensive HID mod).  I have never had to touch my starter or hi-lo switch.  No problems with heat on the headlight lens or reflector.  The bulbs typically last 3 years or so, cost $15 at Competition Accessories, and light up the road CLEARLY for a measured half mile on hi beam.  About like well-aimed hi beams on a GL1800 Gold Wing - which is brighter than the hi beams on all of my cages (but not the illegal off-road lights on the Exploder).

I wrote up this mod on my web site, tech tips pages.  See http://www.horseapple.com/Valkyrie/Tech_Tips/Headlight_Upgrade/headlight_upgrade.html  You don't need fancy relays, just standard 4 or 5 pin 30 or 40 amp $5 relays from Auto Zone or the like are fine.  You need 2.  Some 12ga wire and a fuse holder.  $15 total and a Saturday afternoon and you'll have a headlight that lights the road like nobody else's does.  Except a well aimed GL1800, that is.

Now if you have extra juice (I have a 1.3kW alternator) and are just NUTS about LOTS of light on the road ( I killed two mule bucks with my Valk in '01 ), I'll tell you how to install & wire aircraft landing lights in addition to the headlight mod.  But seriously, do the relays & the 130/90 bulb, you won't need more lights on the road.  I installed the landing lights mainly to warn cages not to turn in front of me.  But long as I have them, they come on with the hi beam switch - you wouldn't believe the total light Deerslayer throws.  I'm sure it shocks cagers I pass when I flip them on alongside them.
« Last Edit: October 03, 2010, 01:15:16 AM by MarkT » Logged


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sugerbear
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wentzville mo


« Reply #10 on: October 03, 2010, 03:32:30 AM »

ricky, you need to take off those sunglasses, nobody cares how cool you look at night.

couldnt see a difference...............(walking away shaking my head)
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