Clutch Damper Rivets - Me Too!

[F6Dave]

After 148,000+ miles my '98 has it's first significant problem.  The clutch is exhibiting the symptoms of sheared rivets in the damper plate.  This seems to be a fairly hot topic recently.  Thanks to EXCELLENT posts and pictures from several members on this problem I've got a clear idea of the scope of the job.  This is an outstanding board!

I do have a couple of questions for those who have tackled this job:

Q1.  Has anyone fabricated something, or used the Honda clutch holder tool, to remove the clutch nut?  I don't mind removing the nut with an impact wrench, but would prefer to torque it accurately when reinstalling.

Q2.  Do you replace or reuse the clutch nut?

Q3.  When I replaced the clutch on my old Kawasaki Concours (very similar, but easier to get to) the kit only contained the friction plates, and I reused the steel plates (which looked like new).  Did anyone do it this way?

Thanks for the help!  I noticed HDLParts is running a 15% off sale through midnight so I may order this stuff tonight.

[Joe Hummer]

Hey Dave,

I just finished the clutch replace today.  I used the impact gun to remove/install the nut.  On the re-install, I just ran the nut back on and let it knock a few times...Lined the peens almost back to the same spot they were. 

answers to your questions...

1)  As I stated, I just used the impact gun to re-install.  I would think the holder tool would be easy enough to make up if you had a welder. 

2)  I re-used the nut. If I have to replace the clutch again, I will replace the nut as the peened spots would be worn out.

3)  My pressure plate was a little loose...no rivets were broken.  The metal discs did not need to be replaced as they looked good...but for piece of mind, I went ahead and replaced them.  Actually...the friction discs looked in good shape too...but again, for piece of mind...they were changed. 

Joe

[houstone]

My rivets were gone, so there was no questions about the damper plate.  I may have re-used the metal plates, but the friction plates were showing clear signs of wear.  I replaced both and the damper, of course.  For the nut, an impact took it right off, no problem.  To torque it, I just (shhhh, don't tell anybody) jammed a screwdriver in somewhere (can't really recall what on what, but was careful) and torqued it to spec.  No problem.  It is really pretty straightforward if you are comfortable with this sort of thing.  If not, it can be a GREAT learning experience!  ;-)
The first couple of hundred miles after will teach you a lot about listening to your machine, which is good, but you will probably be fine, in spite of everything you think you hear.
I would love to hear how many of you actually understand what I mean by all this....
Jeff

[Ricky-D]

You're correct!

Knowing your own machine is very important to long machine life and knowing the sounds it makes is first thing to realizing a problem is happening before damage occurs.

Imagination can play tricks on the mind especially when having just performed adjustments.

That is why it is best to do one operation at a time and ride for a spell. Make sure nothing has changed for the worse.

Doing multiple changes at one time can really complicate analysis when a problem arises immediately following the changes.  You read about it all the time on the forum!

***

[Jeff K]

Zip it off with an impact, zip it back on with an impact. I always tighten it till its a smidgen past the original stake point, to take thread stretch into the equation. I always reuse the nut two or three times, if the stake spots are still there.

If the steel plates are not discolored I reuse them.

[valkmc]

I did mine last year, I replaced the damper plate, everything else looked ok. No signs of wear at all. I have run it about 8,000 miles since the rebuild w/o a problem. I took the basket to a local shop and had them pull the nut. They charged me $5, same when I put it together and had them torque it to spec. Someone here mentioned they tried a bike where the owner had replaced the damper plate with a solid plate, I considered it when I did mine. The job is not that bad. I have a lift and strapped her down so she couldn't move. If I have to take it apart again I may try a solid plate in place of the damper just to she what it does. If the experiment fails it would not be to bad to remove it and put the original plate back in.

[Ricky-D]

The important consideration in that case is to have the stack height the same as the original when replacing the plate/spring assembly with more regular plates.

If you can do that with installation of an additional metal plate and a fiber plate you clutch will be stronger in it's ability to handle the power you throw at it!

The stack height is the important factor however!

***

[asfltdncr]

It sounds that it may be wise to remove first before buying clutch replacement parts?
 

[fudgie]

Any write ups with pix?

[Disco]

Any write ups with pix?

Here's a thread with pics from the Texas Board.

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,20870.0.html

[F6Dave]

Thanks for all the info!  Like I mentioned, I replaced the cluth on my old Concours several years ago, and except for the location, this job looks similar enough.  Since HDL was running a 15% sale through Friday I ordered all the parts I expect to need.  Probably got a few I didn't need but at those prices it's no big deal.

The pictures some members posted were great.  I thought I'd have to drive 45 miles to a dealer to compress the disk pack, but Jeff K's invention will let me do it in my garage!