I/S lights

[Jack B]

I forgot to turn my key off on  my 99 Interstate the other day. I noticed the lights going dim so I walked up to the bike and the lights went off. Damn I drained the battery so I put a 2 amp charger on it. I let it on for 2 days but then when I started it there was no low beam headlights  and only 1 high beam light I replaced the headlights, same thing all fuses are good. Any ideas?

[shortleg]

 Check grounds and starter switch,also hi lo beam switch.
             Shortleg[Dave]

[3W-lonerider]

if those 2 options don't pan out..check the relay..relay coils will fry from low voltage.

[Bagger John - #3785]

if those 2 options don't pan out..check the relay..relay coils will fry from low voltage.

Explain this, please.

[3W-lonerider]

I work with coil relays everyday. 6, 12, 24 and 48 volt relays and contactors..when a coil relay is energized it moves an arm which has little contacts. kinda like the contacts of an old point system in older cars with distributers. those contacts will arc everytime they are mated and unmated. a high voltage spike going threw that coil and contact will melt the contacts, usually when that happens it will either fry the coil or melt the contacts togather.. low voltage. has a similer affect running low voltage threw a relay will make the contact arm react slower thus creating a longer arc before those contacts close. which will either arc them closed or have the opposite affect of putting an arc tit on the contact surface so the contact cannot close to do it's job..ever have a starter stay running after you shut the key off because the relay either stuck closed or the starter solenoid fried. also if you've ever replaced the points in an older cars distributer..ever taken notice the the holes or the tits on the contact points. the holes were there as they should be from a good contacting set of points..if you seen tits on those point..that ment you most likely had corrosion leading up to the distributer and those points were running on less voltage than normal..even though the car was running perfectly.

[shortleg]

  That must be why we would file our points in
our old cars.
            Shortleg[Dave]

[Jack B]

So if it is a relay way does just 1 light work. And would you test a relay like a fuse? 
Thanks

[Jack B]

I ordered 4 relays from Pinwell $28 so it should be a eazy fix

[3W-lonerider]

you said you had 1 high beam and no low beam..i'd try a relay for the low beam..high beam may be another problem.

[Bagger John - #3785]

...when a coil relay is energized it moves an arm which has little contacts. kinda like the contacts of an old point system in older cars with distributers. those contacts will arc everytime they are mated and unmated. a high voltage spike going threw that coil and contact will melt the contacts, usually when that happens it will either fry the coil or melt the contacts togather.. low voltage. has a similer affect running low voltage threw a relay will make the contact arm react slower thus creating a longer arc before those contacts close. which will either arc them closed or have the opposite affect of putting an arc tit on the contact surface so the contact cannot close to do it's job.

Do the Valkyrie I/S headlight relays include a spike suppression ("inductive kick-back") diode within the case, as with late-model Harley-Davidson and similar automotive 12v power relays?

ETA:

Interesting reading on suppression methods. One would expect a self-cleaning, short throw distance device such as that used for the I/S lighting control arrangement to be somewhat immune to several of the factors detailed herein:

http://www.schrackrelays.com/appnotes/app_pdfs/13c3311.pdf

[Bagger John - #3785]

Here's another interesting bit:

http://relaytestingsolutions.com/Achilles_pamphlet.pdf

According to that summarization, switching higher voltages actually decreases relay contact life. This also says nothing of induced coil voltage, but if one takes into account the basic principles of electromagnetic physics one deduces that the lower the applied coil voltage, the lower the stored inductive potential energy (in joules) within the coil assembly. Thus, a smaller likelihood of "blowing" the coil with decreasing armature voltage. The converse is true, however: Go much above the relay's ratings in terms of applied coil voltage and the odds of generating a spike with the ability to damage the part is definitely increased.

My $0.02 WRT to the problem, given the symptoms and conditions presented thus far: Oxidized or pitted contacts in the headlight sockets and/or Hi/Lo-beam relay connectors. The relays themselves may be fine. "One" Lo-beam light functioning indicates the problem lies somewhere else besides the relays and I'm betting on the sockets.

[sugerbear]

isn't it also true that with the lower voltage the higher the amps pulled? which could burn out the contacts.

[Bagger John - #3785]

isn't it also true that with the lower voltage the higher the amps pulled? which could burn out the contacts.

No.

Assuming a steady load resistance, a decrease in voltage will result in a decrease in amperage - this paying homage to Ohm's Law:

I = E/R

Where I = amps, E = applied voltage and R = resistance.

For purposes of this discussion, assume a total bulb load resistance of 1 ohm. Resistances in the supply wires and connectors will add to this figure, but for the sake of simplicity we'll dismiss with them.

Apply 12v across 1 ohm and you get 12A.

Apply 10v across 1 ohm and you get 10A.

[Jack B]

Thank you
 I ordered some relays and they came today. The relay for the headlights were hanging down in front of the rear tire and the relay was rusty and dirty there was a broken wire on the plug, eazy fix. But low beam on the right side didn't work. I checked for power and that was good so I put the new light in. All is good.
 So the battery going dead  had nothing to do with the lighs not working, I had a broke wire and a bad light blub. I did put the new relay in. The light blub was a silverstar it lasted 5000 miles in my truck they didn't last long. So I will not buy silverstar's again.

[3W-lonerider]

thanks for letting us know the outcome..

[NITRO]

Thank you
 I ordered some relays and they came today. The relay for the headlights were hanging down in front of the rear tire and the relay was rusty and dirty there was a broken wire on the plug, eazy fix. But low beam on the right side didn't work. I checked for power and that was good so I put the new light in. All is good.
 So the battery going dead  had nothing to do with the lighs not working, I had a broke wire and a bad light blub. I did put the new relay in. The light blub was a silverstar it lasted 5000 miles in my truck they didn't last long. So I will not buy silverstar's again.

So how long were you riding around with one bulb??

[Jack B]

I don't think I was driving around too long I'm always checking my front lights when I back out of the garage I can see the lights in the TV and when I'm behind a car I'm always checking. This is one of my many problems.