Valk PRepurchase

[sphillips]

Newbie here,

Seriously considering selling my Sabre and getting a Valk. Any specific items to check  when I find one I am interested in? Have the belt driven camshafts been an issue?

Thanks for any input,

Steve

[Chiefy]

Newbie here,

Seriously considering selling my Sabre and getting a Valk. Any specific items to check  when I find one I am interested in? Have the belt driven camshafts been an issue?

Thanks for any input,

Steve

I just got mine, after being off bikes for 25 years.  I won't be much help, but I'll get you started.

The Valk should track straight and true for a long run, at least on a nice flat road.  Mine goes straight like a chopper I had 28 years ago.

You have 6 carbs, and the slow speed jets will clog if the bike sits awhile (few weeks.)  If they are clogged, it will miss slightly to badly (depending on how many are clogged) below 2500 rpms.  Mine has been doing that since I got it three weeks ago.  Dealer is looking at it tomorrow for me (under guarantee.)  If you're good with a wrench, I'm told the fix isn't too bad.  If not, I'm told it costs $400~$600.00 to have a Honda dealer clean all the carbs and sync stuff up.

Check this out, just for an FYI about all the bizarre, but normal noises a boxer engine makes:

http://www.rattlebars.com/valkfaq/index.html

Let us know how the hunt goes!

[Matsumike]

I've had many bikes, and many makes and some things are constant, consistant in buying a used bike

1.  Just because a bike has low miles does not make it a good buy, in fact, if the bike has sat un ridden for several years you will have problems with the engine - especvially carbs, wheels, bearings gaskets, etc.  I never buy a used bike that has not been ridden in over a year..... never.

2.  If you find a bike from a private owner who is very good with that brand.. like the Valk's, and can document oil changes, modifications, performance, etc., I believe you are almost always better off than buying a trade-in at a dealer that has no history with it.  Ask the owner things like when was the last time the splines were lubed and gaskets changed, or  when carbs were sync's, was it de-smogged,  can give you valuable knowledge about the bike - and the former owner.

3.  If you are considering a Valk with a car tire on rear, I would suggest you try and get a test drive first.  I had a car tire on my first Valk and liked it well enough, but it is not for everyone

[alph]

you can't tell from riding, but just be very aware of the rear spline.  a buddy of mine bought an interstate, the guy said he maintained it regularly, i personally doubt that he ever had that rear wheel off to inspect the drive splines 'cause they were rusted and worn to hell!!  that'll be your most expensive preventable repair in my thoughts.

[Tropic traveler]

Newbie here,

Seriously considering selling my Sabre and getting a Valk. Any specific items to check  when I find one I am interested in? Have the belt driven camshafts been an issue?

Thanks for any input,

Steve

Bought at 57K, now has 103K still have the OE timing belts, engine has never been apart.
Condition is the key when buying a Valk. Miles mean less on a flat 6 powered bike than most any other.


 

[highcountry]

A good dose of Chemtool B12 can help clean out carbs.  Even though the Valk has 6 carbs, it is very easy to sync if have the right eqpt such as a Twinmax.  The valves are also easy to adjust if one is mechanically inclined.  The OEM petcock is a weak link that can leak even when in the "off" position which can result in hydro-lock if a carb float valve is leaking, severely damaging the engine.  Fork oil change is another maintenance item that is frequently overlooked.

[sphillips]

Thanks to al for the excellent input. TropicTraveler, i used to live just up the street from that big lobster.

[czuch]

Fall in love, hold on. Thats all I can offer.
Its the last bike you'll ever buy. Its like the end of the internet. There is nothing else.

[Pete]

Honda flat 4's and 6's are solid mechanical engines (for 35 years) about the only thing that ever causes a mechanical engine issues are lots and lots of miles.

As for other issues, same as buying any other used vehicle.

Do a little reading of back post and you will see most of the issues run into by many on the board.

Just be aware that many regular VRCC posters probably ride more than most so there frequency of maint and fixes would be higher.

In checking out the back post also remember that if a bike is running right no one post that info so many many riders are not experiencing any issues.

[Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008]

Bought mine with 59K on it. I got it at a very good price, so I changed all the fluids, replaced all wheel bearings and lubed the splines. At  94K I lost my alt. (not uncommon) at 100K changed belts because of age and milage now at 123K and still kicking daily. I don't  have any reason to think this bike won't run well over 200K. This bike was not very well maintained before I got it so I did all the maintance.  I did all that I did to have a base line  so I knew what I had.

[Alaskamike]

Just one quick and on.   It it almost always better to buy a bike from someone who is mechanically inclined and has done extensive regular maint on the bike.   You can also often get a bike with 1,000ds in add ons and mods, for same price as one with none.  Things like truck stacks (exhaust pipes), added chrome, light upgrades, and Ultimate seats are expensive and if you get some of these from the 'git go' so much the better!

Let us know if you do make the plunge!  You won't regret riding the Valk.

[hmt81]

Bought mine '99 April, upgraded from an '88 Super magna. This is the "keeper". One ride on my brothers '97 and that was all she wrote. I agree on the sitting idle for sometime issue. Mine sat almost 2 years with bad gas. Siphoned all I could, added fresh gas & Seafoam. Was able to get it running on choke only then eventually well enough to ride without choke. I ended up caving in and having the dealer clean and sync for $535.00 but she runs sooo good now. I also lucked out with a ton of extras just making the deal sweeter! Only 11,131 miles when I bought it. Good luck, post pics when you get her...

[Pete]

If you find a low mileage garage queen ---- check the inside of the gas tank for rust.
Cleaning the carbs is not that big a deal, but a gas tank cost lots of money $1200 to $1400.

Of course a rusty tank that has not holed can be cleaned and coated for $50 worth of materials.

[Chiefy]

Just one quick and on.   It it almost always better to buy a bike from someone who is mechanically inclined and has done extensive regular maint on the bike.   You can also often get a bike with 1,000ds in add ons and mods, for same price as one with none.  Things like truck stacks (exhaust pipes), added chrome, light upgrades, and Ultimate seats are expensive and if you get some of these from the 'git go' so much the better!

Let us know if you do make the plunge!  You won't regret riding the Valk.

Amen.  I bought my trike bone stock.  With what goodies cost, I said never again.  My Valk came with all the extras that I wanted, plus some I never knew about.  And I got it for right around what stockers cost, or ones with more mileage.

If I sell the trike while the chrome and stuff is still in good shape, I'm going to strip it and sell the goodies off separately.

[Bama Red]

I'm in the same position as Steve. I've got a 2000 750 Shadow ACE Deluxe i'm gonna put up for sale soon and hunt for a Valk. Been in love with them ever since I sat on one in a Honda dealership back in the late 1990's. Following this forum has just renewed the love affair.

Was going to get a 4-5 year old H-D Road King, but I can get a good used Valk for half to a third the cost of the Road King.