Fog Lights and Relays

[Boomer]

I have been running a set of fog lights I got from auto store for about 2 years.  When I installed them I installed an inline fuse and have not had any issues.  But, I am getting ready to replace the existing fog lights with a new set of Hella Micro's so I can get more distance on dark roads.  They draw about 55 amps.  I don't know what the old ones pull, but I have read a lot lately about adding relays with anything I add to the IS.  I can't afford Moto-lens so that's not an option til the economy gets better.....
So should I add the relay and what kind?  I don't think the Hella's come with a relay...

Thanks!

[Mr. Nuts]

http://www.rattlebars.com/mtz/foglites.html

is a great place to start reading about this subject. Lots of other great stuff there too!

[Thunderbolt]

Chet's links on his Rattlebars pages have been a big help to me over the years.  Your new lamps should require approximately A 10a fuse, probably close to what you already have installed for the old ones.  I wired a 30A relay that feeds an extra fuse panel.  The relay is triggered by the aux fuse output, this way the whole panel goes off when you turn the key off. 

[Boomer]

TB,
I like the idea of the whole panel going off when you turn the key off.  Did you mount the extra fuse panel in the front faring or under the seat?  It looks like Chet deals with the wiring regarding interface with starter etc;

Last question:  I have my current lights mounted underneath the crash bars which may be why I am looking for more light.  Since it's an I.S. a light bar is not really an option unless I can find something off another bike to fabricate something.  Where have most of you had the best luck regarding mounting?  I know Moto-lens shows them higher up on the forks?

[MarkT]

These are 50w Wagner aircraft landing lights mounted in shells from Jcwhitney.  Fork mounts are windshield mounts from Rifle I just happened to have on hand.

The Spotlight rim housings are here: http://www.jcwhitney.com/spotlight-rim-housings/p2014961.jcwx?filterid=c14762j1

The aircraft landing lights from this ebay site at a great price: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/WAGNER-SEALED-BEAM-12V-P-H-7604-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem35ab67c329QQitemZ230508970793QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories - they are Wagners, have a really cool look - look closely at the picture -  and are way brighter then the GE spots of the same number - I replaced my GE sealed beams with these.  They are a closeout of inventory from the LA police dept: " FROM THE LOS ANGELES CITY POLICE DEPARTAMENT GARAGE PARTS OLD ATTIC STOCK" - I bought 8 of them so I don't run out forever.

Use Chets wiring diagram for spots to wire them.  I suspect Rifle will sell you the fork clamps.  The Wagners are about $12 ea and the spot shells are $25 for the pair at jcwhitney.

[Boomer]

Mark T!!
These look like EXACTLY what I was looking for to help me see at night......an when not on the bike can use em on the plane! 

Questions:  Do you run these as running lights during the day as well?  Did you hook these to your high beams so you can control them easier to keep oncoming drivers from being blinded? or did you just point them down a bit? These look great, and the price is great.....am emailing Rifle as we speak!!!

[MarkT]

I have another pair I use as running lights - you can see in the photo - down on the crash bars, on another relay circuit.

Use Chet's article to wire them to a relay:  3-pos toggle switch, center to the trigger of the relay.  Other two leads on the toggle - blue wire which is high beam circuit, and blue/white wire, which is power to the hi-lo headlight sw.  (Though I don't know if these are the colors on the IS circuit diagram.)
Now you can select on with ignition (blue/white), off (middle), or on with high beam.  Both on selections will go off with the starter button.  Bonus, hit the starter while driving to signal to oncoming riders there's a radar trap ahead (assuming the spots are presently on).  Though you probably don't want to run these with oncoming traffic if they aren't pointed down - really bright.

You could also add an auxiliary power source, seperate circuit, if you're concerned with needing another lighting source if you lose the headlight circuit.  Though I didn't do this.  It's never happened that I lost the headlight circuit - though I have lost the headlight - bulb burned out.

[9Ball]

They draw about 55 amps.  I don't know what the old ones pull, but I have read a lot lately about adding relays with anything I add to the IS.  I can't afford Moto-lens so that's not an option til the economy gets better.....
So should I add the relay and what kind?  I don't think the Hella's come with a relay...

Thanks!

I doubt they draw 55 amps.....most likely they are 55 w bulbs.  Big difference.

[Thunderbolt]

with Kuryakyn p-clamps and a small bracket to extend them a little.  The fuse panel is underneath the right side cover.  I would show you a picture, but I am afraid others would show theirs and I would be embarrased at how neat theirs are. 
I have my gps feed, air horn, cruise control, the flasher mod also on Chet's Valkyrie page, and the extra lights all on that panel.  I didn't go into the fairing for any of my wiring.  I like that it all goes off with the key.  My first extra lights just had a fuse and a switch.  The first group ride I had them on, I killed my battery because I forgot to turn them off and I was late getting to the lunch ride and no one was there to tell me to turn them off.

[stude31]

Not to steal your thread boomer but I wanted to say Hi.... 

I didn't see you at InZane this year but here is a picture of you in frisco,co.



and if you forgot who I am... here is a picture of me..




Hope all is well 

[Boomer]

Stude31:  Well, Actually that's not me....must be two Boomers!


TB!  Great idea on the wiring.  I know the I.S. wiring color code is different from the Standard, but will figure it out.  TWICE I have pulled up, put the kickstand down which killed the engine, got off for twenty minutes to come back to dead bike. (headlights, running lights, radio, etc;)  My Harley buds are impressed you can push a Valk to start it....but the wife says she's not pushing it a THIRD time !!!

Thanks!

[MarkT]

Boomer - if you use Chet's diagram - which I outlined with the blue and blue/white wires as selectable triggers for the relay via a 3-pos switch - the spots follow the headlight.  That is, they go off with the key as well (besides coming on with either the ignition, or with the high beam, or off, and also off when you press the starter).  You have to remember to turn off the key.  To help with that, you could wire a buzzer triggered by the oil pressure light - that would buzz with ignition on but engine not running.

[hubcapsc]

Boomer - if you use Chet's diagram - which I outlined with the blue and blue/white wires as selectable triggers for the relay via a 3-pos switch - the spots follow the headlight.  That is, they go off with the key as well (besides coming on with either the ignition, or with the high beam, or off, and also off when you press the starter).  You have to remember to turn off the key.  To help with that, you could wire a buzzer triggered by the oil pressure light - that would buzz with ignition on but engine not running.

The blue wire rocks...





-Mike

[Boomer]

Mark T,

When I went to order the housings from J.C. Whitney, they list the VT and VTX as models that the lights work for.   They mention the Valkyrie won't work, but I assume it's because they don't automatically mount etc;

Whether I order for VLX or VT as indicated, shouldn't matter since I am using Rifle Mounts right??

[FLATSIX]

In my opinion they really draw 55W - I have them mounted on my cobra-bar.

When bike idles and put them on then rpm drops with 100 rpm and you hear the motor "working".
Battery is good - alternator is good, they only draw too much current at idle....

If I put them on when upcoming traffic comes then people will only see black circles in their head for about 1 minute - I only use them to say "hello" with my lights or when I am alone in a dark forest , because with these you turn night into day when you put them on.

As driving lights I use small bullet lights mounted under the engine guard  and mounted with 3-LED lights 3.6 Watt each - these give also alot of light despite their 3.6 Watt !!

Success with the Wagner aircraft lamps !

[MarkT]

Mark T,

When I went to order the housings from J.C. Whitney, they list the VT and VTX as models that the lights work for.   They mention the Valkyrie won't work, but I assume it's because they don't automatically mount etc;

Whether I order for VLX or VT as indicated, shouldn't matter since I am using Rifle Mounts right??

Boomer,

I just checked which actual p/n I ordered last year.  Here's the link: http://www.jcwhitney.com/custom-fit-spotlight-bars-and-spotlights/p2003447.jcwx?filterid=j1

It turns out you have to order 2.  I forgot that.  I don't know if this is the same product I mentioned before - but I'm thinking it may be.  Anyway, ignore what they say.  Sounds like typical parts counter clerks who can't put anything together w/o an application guide.  How many times have I run into them, when wanting to buy say a universal relay for a custom application, fr'instance.

[Boomer]

Mark T

I received the Headlight housings and Rifle Clamps.  Problem is:  the hollow male screw post on the housing is 5/16" and the female threads receiver on the Rifle Clamp is 1/4".  I checked with Whitney and Rifle, and neither makes the other....  Did you just get lucky when you ordered or have to modify???

[MarkT]

Mark T

I received the Headlight housings and Rifle Clamps.  Problem is:  the hollow male screw post on the housing is 5/16" and the female threads receiver on the Rifle Clamp is 1/4".  I checked with Whitney and Rifle, and neither makes the other....  Did you just get lucky when you ordered or have to modify???

I don't remember something as trivial as drilling a hole.  That's like having to think about walking.  I just checked, my posts are not hollow but they do mic at 0.335".  No offense, but if needing to hog out a hole has you calling it a "problem" and gets you to calling two suppliers and then posting here for advice, maybe you should pay someone with mechanical skill to do your mods to your bike.  I assume folks have some minimum level of ability to give them advice - not going to explain basic skills.

[Boomer]

Hey,

I didn't mean to piss you off or take up your incredibly valuable time.  I merely thought if there was a part you replaced it with and knew the answer, it might save me a little time or trouble.  I own a company with 24 employees, and can probably figure it out.  With your attitude makes me wonder why anyone would post on here, we should just "hog" everything out and go on down the road. 

Again, I hope to not bother you in the future.

[MarkT]

Not pissed off Boomer.  I did say "no offense".  Looks like that didn't take.  I expect people to try to think for themselves, and your question does not indicate that, but instead asks for help when it appears to be not needed. You are right my time is valuable, but I wouldn't say "incredibly" - for you or me.  Like I said - I don't remember hogging out the hole - something so trivial I will do quickly and promptly forget it.  Ask for help when it's needed - and help yourself when you can. Don't waste yours or my time with obvious things - that just insults your own intelligence. Now I'll stop with this thread.

Just for goodwill / no hard feelings, go ahead and ask another question, as painful as possible & I'll answer w/o editorial comment.

[f6rider]

lot of light options out there as well as alot of ork clamps.. I am in the process of making some Rivco knock offs mounts. I am waiting for the brackets to get mandrel bent and then some cutting and welding...

[Boomer]

Thanks for posting.  I am sure your input will be appreciated by others that read the thread.  The Shells from J.C. Whitney and fork brackets from Rifle are also a good solution, they just need some modification.  Since the threaded bolts from Whitney are hollow, it will allow for the wiring to be clean going through the bolts etc; But since the Rifle mounts are threaded to receive a 1/4" bolt, I'm gong to have them drilled and machined to receive a 5/16" bolt which should solve the issue. 

Last night I spotted 5-6 deer on a trip home on the side of road, thus am really looking forward to Mark T's LAPD landing light solution on the I.S. 

Will keep you posted.