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Author Topic: New Bike Jack  (Read 1763 times)
Dubsvalk
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Knoxville, TN.


« on: October 26, 2010, 09:33:11 AM »

Sears has their motorcycle jack on sale for $79.95 so I bought one today.  This weekend I will pull the rear wheel off my newly acquired Valkyrie to check and grease the splines so I know for sure it has been done!  If I don't have to teach this weekend I will get that done and the bike should be ready to go for another 12,000 miles or so.
Bernie
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JerryB
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Takin' it easy!

Michigan


« Reply #1 on: October 26, 2010, 09:36:15 AM »

You need an adapter for the valk to use a jack under it...JB.
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Chrisj CMA
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Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #2 on: October 26, 2010, 10:57:09 AM »

IF this is your first R/R on the rear.....make sure you have the book.....or clear instructions on the process, or it could be the beginning of the end for your splines
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PharmBoy
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Lawton, Ok


« Reply #3 on: October 26, 2010, 11:09:39 AM »

Make your own adaptor, instructions in shop-talk.  Also instructions for removal and installation for both front and rear wheels in shop-talk.  Print them off and follow them to the letter or you could have problems on down the road.  I still look up my printed copy and take them to the garage to make certain that I have the torque values correct and don't forget something.  But then again, it is your bike.  Just saying!...JTL
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Dubsvalk
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Knoxville, TN.


« Reply #4 on: October 26, 2010, 12:12:50 PM »

Thanks for all the tips and guidance guys.  I ordered a bracket that bolts to the bottom of the Valk to mate to the jack.  I could have made one but this one will last forever.  I will definately print the process from shoptalk.  I do have a Clymer's manual but didn't realize it was this serious so I want to know how to do it properly from experience.
Bernie
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Chrisj CMA
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Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #5 on: October 26, 2010, 01:23:50 PM »

Thanks for all the tips and guidance guys.  I ordered a bracket that bolts to the bottom of the Valk to mate to the jack.  I could have made one but this one will last forever.  I will definately print the process from shoptalk.  I do have a Clymer's manual but didn't realize it was this serious so I want to know how to do it properly from experience.
Bernie
I highly recommend you loose that clymers and get the Honda shop guide........very much worth whatever you have to pay
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Walküre
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Nothing beats a 6-pack!

Oxford, Indiana


« Reply #6 on: October 26, 2010, 01:46:50 PM »

I highly recommend you loose that clymers and get the Honda shop guide........very much worth whatever you have to pay

Or, keep the Clymer's, and use them both. It's ALWAYS nice to get a 2nd view...

R
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Dubsvalk
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Knoxville, TN.


« Reply #7 on: October 26, 2010, 02:13:40 PM »

I will start looking for a Honda Service manual tomorrow!  Thanks for the headsup!
Bernie
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donaldcc
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Palm Desert, CA


« Reply #8 on: October 26, 2010, 02:51:15 PM »

  Bernie,
     This is posted many times, go to Dag's site and down on left at bottom of technical section you can download Honda Service Manual.  Also a section on Removing Back Tire.  Cool

http://www.valkyrienorway.com/
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Don
Dubsvalk
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Knoxville, TN.


« Reply #9 on: October 26, 2010, 05:01:05 PM »

Donald thank you so much!  I will down load and be ready for my maintenance!
Bernie
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Hoghead
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Kilgore, TX


« Reply #10 on: October 26, 2010, 05:19:28 PM »

I agree a Honda service manual... priceless. Check out my thread in tech page. Adapters for auto lift. I have designed some adapters that bolt to the bike and have pictured a couple of them. I don't like the idea of balancing my bike up there especially if I'm removing wheels. I would recommend C clamping to the Sears lift similar to the way I have on my auto lift.
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Beautiful east Tennessee ( GOD'S Country )


« Reply #11 on: October 26, 2010, 06:54:19 PM »

I agree a Honda service manual... priceless. Check out my thread in tech page. Adapters for auto lift. I have designed some adapters that bolt to the bike and have pictured a couple of them. I don't like the idea of balancing my bike up there especially if I'm removing wheels. I would recommend C clamping to the Sears lift similar to the way I have on my auto lift.
The Sears lift comes with straps ( mine did anyway  Undecided  ) ...I've had both my wheels off at the sametime...I have the home-made wood adapter from Shop Talk the bike is very stable when strapped down to the Sears jack.Picture below is a off-brand jack I got at Advance Auto Parts I still have it as well and never had any problems with it either...My A # 1 Valkyrie technician when she was just leaning the ropes and working on Stanley Steamers bike Smiley

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I've seen alot of people that thought they were cool , but then again Lord I've seen alot of fools.
Dubsvalk
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Posts: 913


Knoxville, TN.


« Reply #12 on: October 27, 2010, 05:54:21 AM »

Awesome Joe!  I need a good mechanic!  Hopefully I will have everything I need by this weekend to pull the rear wheel, grease the splines, drain the pumpkin, change engine oil and filter, and replace fluids with Amsoil 20W50 and Amsoil syn gear oil.  With a new bike I want to make sure I have everything up to snuff before I ride it too much.  I'll be doing the same thing to my vulcan 1500 even though I will be selling it at some point.
Thanks again for everyone's help!  Any other tips and advice is appreciated.
Bernie
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Maggie Valley, NC


« Reply #13 on: October 27, 2010, 06:09:57 AM »

Brake and clutch fluid as well.

Make sure you strap the bike to the jack.
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stude31
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Posts: 1100


Topeka,ks


« Reply #14 on: October 27, 2010, 06:33:56 AM »

Make your own adaptor, instructions in shop-talk.  Also instructions for removal and installation for both front and rear wheels in shop-talk.  Print them off and follow them to the letter or you could have problems on down the road.  I still look up my printed copy and take them to the garage to make certain that I have the torque values correct and don't forget something.  But then again, it is your bike.  Just saying!...JTL


Or you could be computer savvy and have a desktop PC with the shop manual pulled up on it (I use my old pc to do this), and have your Laptop out there with the shoptalk page up and tech forum in case you come across something you need a quick answer to... i have all my friends at my finger tips  Grin  Oh and what you don't see is my cell phone to call Pharmboy if I just need to hear some words of encouragement. 

Back to the thread though... yes you can build a sub frame out of wood or you can buy one that is made out of steal.  I have both but I find that they both work very well and it's whatever one is closest to the hand is the one I grab.  If you have questions don't hesitate to ask.  Not sure how much you know about servicing the rear end.  Don't forget the 3 o-rings, pull the final drive off and "yank" the shaft out of the pumpkin and clean the pinion cup.  While you have the pumpkin out dump the final drive oil and put new in.  Pull the U-joint out and inspect and re-lube, as well.   If you already know about all this please pardon my comments, but if you never done this now is a good time to do it.

Many folks here are willing to help in anyway...

Stude31
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Dubsvalk
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Knoxville, TN.


« Reply #15 on: October 27, 2010, 10:04:15 AM »

Stude31,  This is the first time for me doing a Valk.  I am a long time gear head and do almost all my own wrenching on all my vehicles.  My garage is heated and air conditioned but I don't have a phone or computer in it.  For years I also restored british sports cars and lately 2 corvettes.  This doesn't mean to say I'm an expert.  But I am anal about servicing my vehicles and am very particular how it is done.  I want it done correctly and that is why I choose to do it myself.  It is also why I seek the advice from the experience the members of this forum have to offer.  I appreciate all the great advice and comments everyone has made.  I have the o rings but I didn't get a spacer or dust seal.  Should I order them as well and, if so, where is the best place?  Also, where is the best place to get moly lube for the splines?  Again, I thank everyone for their advice and support.  Hopefully, one day I can be of assistance to other members of this great forum!
Bernie
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Thunderbolt
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Worthington Springs FL.


« Reply #16 on: October 27, 2010, 04:06:56 PM »

is what I use for splines,driveshaft etc.  I just took my rear wheel off to check the splines as I have a car tire mounted and it had been close to 11,000 miles since I looked at them.  Everything was still like new.  I started using it when someone here on the board mentioned that their Honda dealer was using it on the bikes that they serviced.
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JetDriver
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Columbus, OH


« Reply #17 on: October 27, 2010, 08:12:56 PM »

+1 on the Bel-Ray Waterproof grease.  I also learned about it from my dealer.
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Dubsvalk
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Knoxville, TN.


« Reply #18 on: October 28, 2010, 05:13:02 AM »

Looks like Bel Ray waterproof grease is what I need to buy!
thanks!  Bernie
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