Final drive, and u-joint - finally getting to it...

[Walküre]

Hi, all...

Getting ready for the DS C/T install. I have the whole back end apart, getting ready to do the nutcage mod, and drive maintenance. My drive splines look good, as do both ends of the drive shaft. Quick question - whatever they used on the drive splines, was REALLY hardened, and caked, and supposedly it had been done, about 3,000 miles ago. I mean, almost to the point that the splines were "dry", as the grease was pushed away, and caked. Does that sound right? I know it was done by a dealer, with a good reputation, but doesn't look quite kosher to me, and it's the first one I've had apart. The splines for the driveshaft, had grease, and it looked fresh, and covered everything well, as I would expect at 3,000 miles.

My MAJOR question is, since I have it this far down, should I go ahead and pull the u-joint, and inspect it, or just leave it? I don't MIND doing it, but since it looks like it would be impossible to do anything with it being backordered and all, and I've no reason to expect it to be anything except in good shape, I'm thinking it would be best to just leave it.

Oh yeah, bike info - 2000 Standard slowly becoming a Tourer, 11,000 miles. Haven't had any problems at all.

I do know about all 3 o-rings, and the thrust washer. Debating doing the bearing mod, probably won't do it THIS time.

thanks,

Roger

[Chrisj CMA]

11K dont worry about that u-joint..............leave it be for a hunerd more thousand miles or so

[Walküre]

Cool beans! Just wanted to be sure, didn't see any mileages in the posts I found, with u_joint problems.

Thanks,

R

[Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008]

Changed mine at 100k just cause it was old. I couldn't find any slack or play so I carry it as a spare on long trips.

[gordonv]

I think I would also agree, not from personal experience, but knowledge. If the U-joint is OK without service till 100K miles, then why bother?

However, I was going to do a complete R&R of my IS this winter. Doing the same as you, going to the Darkside, and have been compiling everything I would need for the job, including a spare u-joint. Because unlike your bike at 11K miles, mines has just gone over 50K miles, and I was going to take the bike off the road for the winter, and just do it all, including the brakes which had just been done 6K miles ago. With my higher mileage, who knows what has been, and not been done, to my bike.

So you tell me, what will you be doing with the bike that you don't have an extra couple of hours, a day, while the bike is laid up for the winter, NOT to pull the whole rear off a 10 year old bike, with low miles, so you can inspect and repack all the bearings and grease the splines?

Just my 2c worth.

Oh, and I won't be doing this anymore, bike accident last Wed, bike written off.

[Sneaky Snake]

Roger,
I also have mine apart for service and to fix the flat.  My Tourer only has 12K on it and I don't have any history of the maintenence.  On disassembly, I found my splines still lubricated well with what looks like the molybdimum disulfied (sp) - MDS paste.  It was not dried.  It was easily removed with a rag.  In following the guidance I found in "Shoptalk"  I also disassembled the driven flange and found the studs, o-ring, and plastic washer completely dry.  In fact there was black powder all in and around the studs and the inside of the flange.  Doesn't look like it was ever lubricated w/ MDS or anything else.  The o-ring PN 91302-MA6-003 looked more like a 10 yr old rubber band.  The black powder I think is the disintegrating o-ring.  It was flat and nearly worn thru in several places.  I'm now waiting until Fri for a new o-ring.  Both the service manual and the "Shoptalk" instructions say that the plastic washer, the o-ring and both mating surfaces of the hub and the flange should be coated with MDS paste.  Be sure to check those parts.  That o-ring is only about as thick as a #2 pencil lead.
Chris

[Red Diamond]

Even if you're not going to pull the u-joint, you could slide it off the output shaft and grease the splines at that location. You can grease the drive shaft and catch the output end of the u-joint at the same time.

[John U.]

If the lube on the splines is dry, you have only just averted disaster. Do a search. Many of us use Guard dog. Some just use a waterproof grease. I use Green Grease with some moly past added to it until it's good and black. It has never been dry when I check or replace tires at about 10,000 to 12,000 mile intervals.

Responding to the O-ring issue, they need to be lubed when replaced or when relubing the splines.

Lastly, I wouldn't remove the U-joint. Just relube the drive shaft and be sure the vent (or whatever) holes are cleaned out and not filled with grease (do a search if you don't know what this means. Get a cup of coffe first) Also be sure the oil/grease seal is in it's proper place on the drive shaft.

[Walküre]

Oh, and I won't be doing this anymore, bike accident last Wed, bike written off.

Ouch!! Sorry to hear that! Everyone ok??

Did you buy it back, and parting it out? Love the color!!

R

[gordonv]

Oh, and I won't be doing this anymore, bike accident last Wed, bike written off.

Ouch!! Sorry to hear that! Everyone ok??

Did you buy it back, and parting it out? Love the color!!

R

Without stealing the thread, I was by myself, and was able to stand afterwards.

As for the bike, I did buy it back (Wife really PO) so I can sell the parts. I'm trying to sell them in BC and WA first, before I worry about shipping and post ads. Front end flat, might be good rim and gauges. I will post later in classifieds ones I actually get the bike back and can inspect and photograph it. Thank you for asking.

[gordonv]

If the lube on the splines is dry, you have only just averted disaster. Do a search. Many of us use Guard dog. Some just use a waterproof grease. I use Green Grease with some moly past added to it until it's good and black. It has never been dry when I check or replace tires at about 10,000 to 12,000 mile intervals.

Responding to the O-ring issue, they need to be lubed when replaced or when relubing the splines.

Lastly, I wouldn't remove the U-joint. Just relube the drive shaft and be sure the vent (or whatever) holes are cleaned out and not filled with grease (do a search if you don't know what this means. Get a cup of coffe first) Also be sure the oil/grease seal is in it's proper place on the drive shaft.

Do you mean the engine side of the yoke, or the drive shaft side?