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MarkT Exhaust
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Author Topic: Exhaust manifold torque  (Read 1943 times)
Hawkeye
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Posts: 19


Horry County, South Carolina


« on: November 08, 2010, 02:46:02 PM »

Got a '97 Standard and love her.  But - how do you get the torque wrench on the three inside nuts on the right side and the forward cylinder inside nut on the left side?  Cobra slash cut 6/6 and the exhaust tubes are in the way for these nuts.  I can snug 'em by feel with open end/box wrench but at 6 ft lbs torque spec that is not going to work out over time.  Don't know what is the standard exhaust fastener, but my set up is nuts over studs, not bolts.  Thanks in advance.
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SCain
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Posts: 624


Rio Rancho, NM


« Reply #1 on: November 08, 2010, 03:27:05 PM »

I've changed my exhaust many times, I just snug them up and check them in a few days, never have used a torque wrench. I always use a little anti sieze on the stud. The standard setup is the acorn style nut on the stud.
When replaceing the copper gaskets, give them a little squeeze (and I mean just a little) to make them out of round, then you can put them into the head and they stay in place.
I am sure others will chime in.
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Steve
Sneaky Snake
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Posts: 41


Clarksville, AR


« Reply #2 on: November 08, 2010, 03:54:08 PM »

I just recently re-installed my exhaust for the first time.   I used a 1/4"drive short 10mm socket and one 1-1/2"long 1/4"  and one 4" long 1/4" "wobble" extensions.  I was able to use a 3/8" drive torque wrench with the 1/4" extensions and with a 3/8 to 1/4 adapter on all except the right rear nut. That last nut was tightened with a 10mm open end wrench 1/6 turn at a time.   With new gaskets, I found that I had to tighten, and then re-torque about 3 times before the gaskets were compressed and the torque became final.  I also tightened them all equally a little at a time.  I found that a couple of the nuts could not be started if other nuts were screwed on too far due to interference with the header tube.    Get them all started about 2 or 3 threads before tightening any further.
Chris
« Last Edit: November 08, 2010, 03:55:40 PM by Sneaky Snake » Logged

'97 Tourer, Stock, Green and Cream
GOOSE
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Posts: 704


D.S. #: 1643

Southwest Virginia


« Reply #3 on: November 08, 2010, 06:59:33 PM »

hawkeye....go to sears and get you a 1/4" drive 10mm swivel socket, a 1/4" ratchet, and a 6" 1/4 extension.  with this setup you can tighten all the acorn nuts except the back inside right rear...for this one i use a 10mm box-end miniature ignition wrench.  the torque is not 6 lbs., but rather 7 lbs. (84" lbs.-use a 1/4" drive torque wrench).  i put a slight coating of axle grease on my gaskets, and that holds them in place nicely...a friend of mine uses vasoline.... when you start it up it poots a little flame. Grin Grin
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CASABROKER
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Posts: 274



« Reply #4 on: November 08, 2010, 09:54:13 PM »

I tried to slowly tighten but still heard the click.  I know mine over over 7 lbs.  And still click even with some rtv on the gaskets and headers.. All nuts tightened in sequence.  I just can't see how 7 lbs. is tight enough.  Mine won't tighten anymore with about a 5 inch 10mm boxend they are snug for sure.  It would be tough to bust one of the studs with that wrench.
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