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my12by60
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« on: November 14, 2010, 12:31:31 PM » |
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I have a 2000 Tourer that I purchased in 2005 from its second owner. The battery looks to be the original YUASA that came with the bike. I have a replacement YUASA on hand and am getting ready to fill the acid, charge it up and replace the original. I am trying to learn a bit about the current battery, charging system, etc. before I change out the old battery. When I first checked the original battery with my multi-meter after sitting overnight (short ride the day before) I got a reading of 12.35, which seemed a bit low. I was out of town the past week and put one of my Harbor Freight battery maintainers on it. My reading was 12.90 after taking the maintainer off (probably due to surface charge). The next morning (no rides and no maintainer in between) the battery was down to 12.45. I am guessing that these readings mean that the battery is in working condition but is not able to retain a full charge. After searching here for other battery related posts, I have seen some indicate that using a battery that is unable to retain a full charge can slowly wear out the alternator.
What sort of multi-meter readings are normal for those of you that check these sort of things?
What cue do you use to help you decide when to replace your battery?
Other than multi-meter readings of less than a 100% charge my current battery has given me no symptoms of being ready to fail.
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Challenger
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« Reply #1 on: November 14, 2010, 12:56:01 PM » |
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I just went out and checked mine with a fluke multimeter. The original battery in my 2000 STD (yes it is 10 years old) reads 12.81. setting since Thursday. The two year old battery in my I/S reads 12.50 and it has not been run since Tuesday. I attribute the minute difference to clock draw in the radio on the I/S. As to when to replace (Who knows) I replaced the I/S because it cranked longer when it got cool and the new battery took care of that. If the STD was used for long commutes or vacations I would have replaced the battery a long time ago. Just want to see how long it will go. with out an on board volt meter, I doubt that you will get much warning when a battery goes.
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bg
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« Reply #2 on: November 14, 2010, 01:03:29 PM » |
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i get a new battery every 5 years.
once they go, they go and i don't want to get stranded.
it happened one time and that was enough.
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #3 on: November 14, 2010, 02:31:53 PM » |
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i get a new battery every 5 years.
once they go, they go and i don't want to get stranded.
it happened one time and that was enough.
me too every 3-4 years.........cheap insurance |
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Mr. Nuts
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« Reply #4 on: November 14, 2010, 04:27:22 PM » |
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Valkyrie batteries like ours have an average cost of about $1 per month ($60 for 60 months). Coaxing an additional couple of years can often be done which might (if successful!) bring the monthly cost down to 71 cents ($60/84 months). Gamblers who try this are betting the potential savings (24 X .71=$6.96 if they make it two extra years) against the chance of getting stuck somewhere ($$$ X !@#$%!). After about 60 months we are taking a pretty good risk to save about 29 cents a month or a penny a day.
I did a lot of battery gambling when I was young and I got stuck and incovenienced a lot. Nowadays I appreciate a more predictable life (and my bike is WAY heavier) so I just replace my battery and change my oil before things quit working.
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“Speed has never killed anyone.... Suddenly becoming stationary, thats what gets you.” - Jeremy Clarkson
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Pete
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« Reply #5 on: November 14, 2010, 04:28:01 PM » |
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Rule of thumb a battery that will hold a 12.8 volt reading on an accurate meter is 100%.
12.6 volts 75%,
12.4 volts 50%,
12.2 volts 25%.
If you have just charged the battery the voltage will show the charger voltage for some time after disconnecting, dissipate the surface charge by using the battery before testing.
Battery life depends on many things, but you should expect to get 3 or more years with use and care.
Real stress testing a battery requires a standard amp drain for some minutes and then measure recovery after so many minutes, to accurately determine its current capability.
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my12by60
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« Reply #6 on: November 14, 2010, 07:23:53 PM » |
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Thanks for all of the replies. To the prior poster, it appears your state of charge %s might be a bit too low for a given voltage reading according to the table shown in the attached link: http://www.otherpower.com/otherpower_battery_metering.htmlMaybe a motorcycle battery is different for some reason. |
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Robert
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« Reply #7 on: November 14, 2010, 08:55:58 PM » |
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State of charge is not really a determining factor unless its really off. The only real way to test a battery is with a load test. All lead acid 6 cells will produce 12v unless really low on charge or one cell bad or shorted. But with a load it separates the good from the bad. You can kind of do a small test yourself. The best is make the bike not be able to start and turn on all accessories then crank it watching the voltage from your meter. It should crank for at least say 30 seconds a couple of times without significant loss in voltage say down to 10 volts max. If it really starts to drop or doesn't go through the test then its no good.
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“Some people see things that are and ask, Why? Some people dream of things that never were and ask, Why not? Some people have to go to work and don’t have time for all that.”
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Pete
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« Reply #8 on: November 15, 2010, 06:22:37 AM » |
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Thanks for all of the replies. To the prior poster, it appears your state of charge %s might be a bit too low for a given voltage reading according to the table shown in the attached link: http://www.otherpower.com/otherpower_battery_metering.htmlMaybe a motorcycle battery is different for some reason. Interesting link, I had not seen before. thanks. Not sure if deep cycle batteries test different than standard batteries or not. The info I had was from a auto battery manufacture. |
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #9 on: November 15, 2010, 09:01:50 AM » |
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All lead acid batteries are the same!
Some may have technical changes regarding plate design, internal insulation and construction differences (not to mention advertising hype) but they are all basically the same.
That means they all should test the same.
Even though the voltage test is not stated as being a perfect test of the battery I feel a true stress test of a small motorcycle battery can do more harm than good to the battery.
I am not convinced that the "stress test" you can get performed on your battery at an auto superstore or similar place is a viable and useful alternative to a true full ampere short out which again, I don't suggest for a motorcycle battery.
So, for me, the voltage is the guide to which I rely.
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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fudgie
Member
Posts: 10613
Better to be judged by 12, then carried by 6.
Huntington Indiana
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« Reply #10 on: November 15, 2010, 10:04:01 AM » |
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Year replace them every 5 or so. They seem fine when you start but go south very fast. Been there.
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 Now you're in the world of the wolves... And we welcome all you sheep... VRCC-#7196 VRCCDS-#0175 DTR PGR |
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my12by60
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« Reply #11 on: November 15, 2010, 12:18:29 PM » |
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Ok guys. Thanks. I learned some things as I had hoped I would. My original battery has given me good service at over 10 years so I agree with the earlier poster(s) that note the potential hassle (and possible expense) of getting stranded is not worth stretching the battery for an extra year or whatever it has left to give me. Since they go suddenly and since a decent resting voltage (absent a load) is not necessarily a fool-proof seal of good health for the battery, I am going to filled, charge and install the new battery.
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