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shamus1
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« on: November 19, 2010, 09:42:03 PM » |
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My 97 Tourer has the clutch engaging/disengaging very close to the resting position of the lever, in other words, it has very little if any free travel. This problem does not happen when Bike is cold, everything is nornal. But when bike is warmed up, especially in stop and go traffic the problem is at it's worst. The bike has 50k on it, which, in reading other posts, doesn't seem like enough to have worn out the clutch. I don't ride the clutch, I have changed the bushing --no inprovement.
Please note after a ride and letting bike cool down a bit, before putting in garage-- free travel/play is back to normal.
thanks
Shamus
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wild6
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Posts: 251
(Old enough to know better)
Vernon, NJ
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« Reply #1 on: November 20, 2010, 04:19:52 AM » |
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As others would suggest/ask: * Background info? (miles, last fluid change(s), etc.) * Search 'clutch travel' But cutting to the chase, purge the fluid thoroughly (should be done every 2 years max). Refer to http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,19739.0.html. |
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« Last Edit: November 20, 2010, 04:21:36 AM by wild6 »
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  “Meddle not in the affairs of the Dragon, for you are crunchy and taste good with ketchup.” |
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SANDMAN5
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Posts: 2176
Mileage 65875
East TN
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« Reply #2 on: November 20, 2010, 06:29:28 AM » |
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Yep. I had the same problem month or so ago. Flushed the system out good, new fluid, almost had to relearn the clutch!! There was that much difference!  |
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"Evolution" is a dying religion being kept alive with tax dollars.  |
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #3 on: November 20, 2010, 07:35:59 AM » |
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There should be no free play! It is hydraulic, not mechanical like with a cable operated clutch!
If free play is present, the indication is air in the system or a worn lever assembly.
Now this is not to mention that there may be a slight mechanical looseness in the lever and/or pushrod assembly within the master cylinder, but that should be minimal to none at all.
***
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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Madmike
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« Reply #4 on: November 21, 2010, 01:56:47 PM » |
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My 97 Tourer has the clutch engaging/disengaging very close to the resting position of the lever, in other words, it has very little if any free travel. This problem does not happen when Bike is cold, everything is nornal. But when bike is warmed up, especially in stop and go traffic the problem is at it's worst. The bike has 50k on it, which, in reading other posts, doesn't seem like enough to have worn out the clutch. I don't ride the clutch, I have changed the bushing --no inprovement.
Please note after a ride and letting bike cool down a bit, before putting in garage-- free travel/play is back to normal.
thanks
Shamus
the clutch fluid may have water in it that is forming steam when it warms up and is under pressure same as it would in a brake system - the steam is way more compressible than oil... try changing the oil as others have suggested and see if this solves your problem, if you check the tech archives you will see some of the problems that others have had when bleeding the clutch circuit and what they had to do to overcome it. |
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shamus1
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« Reply #5 on: November 24, 2010, 01:26:41 PM » |
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my 97 Tourer has 47,000 miles and I have owned it for 5 years, I think clutch fluid was changed before I purchased it--don't know for sure.
I will proceed with flushing system -as soon as we get out of our deep freeze in the Northwest
(Vancouver, BC)
Question? should I purchase a Bleeder to make job easier & rebuild the slave unit with a kit?
tks
Shamus1
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fudgie
Member
Posts: 10613
Better to be judged by 12, then carried by 6.
Huntington Indiana
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« Reply #6 on: November 24, 2010, 01:34:12 PM » |
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A mity vac will help with the process. I know nothing on speed bleeders. Also make sure the fluid resvior does not get empty upon bleeding the system.
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 Now you're in the world of the wolves... And we welcome all you sheep... VRCC-#7196 VRCCDS-#0175 DTR PGR |
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Sonny
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« Reply #7 on: November 28, 2010, 04:41:25 PM » |
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Working close to the same issue. Clutch felt fine but fluid was dark. Everyone says it's past time to change it. I have apparently made a bad mistake. I drained the master cylinder and the line. Thinking all would work just like putting it together with new parts. I have pumped almost 2-3rds of a bottle of brake fluid. Have no clutch tention at all! I'm getting no air from the bleeder, just fluid. Still no clutch ???
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What a great day, lets ride!
1999 Valkyrie Standard
2003 VTX, 1800C
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #8 on: November 29, 2010, 08:43:47 AM » |
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Working close to the same issue. Clutch felt fine but fluid was dark. Everyone says it's past time to change it. I have apparently made a bad mistake. I drained the master cylinder and the line. Thinking all would work just like putting it together with new parts. I have pumped almost 2-3rds of a bottle of brake fluid. Have no clutch tention at all! I'm getting no air from the bleeder, just fluid. Still no clutch ???
Sonny, it would probably be better to start a new thread rather than hijack this thread started by Shamus1: But an important couple of questions might lead to a better understanding of your plight. Did what you do is to drain the whole clutch hydraulic lines first before proceeding? Are you incorporating one of those speed bleeders in the clutch hydraulic system? *** |
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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Sonny
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« Reply #9 on: November 29, 2010, 03:46:05 PM » |
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Ricky-D
Good idea. PLease see ( Clutch fluid change out problem)
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What a great day, lets ride!
1999 Valkyrie Standard
2003 VTX, 1800C
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