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Author Topic: Fog Lights and Wiring Short  (Read 1104 times)
Boomer
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« on: November 23, 2010, 08:45:54 AM »

I decided to follow the direction that some of you took with the aircraft landing light add-ons and couldn't be happier.  They really perform well...In fact the Harley rider in front of me said when we stopped at the top of the mountain, he thought he was about to be run over by a 4 x 4 that had Rack lights overhead when I came upon him.  I want to wire them to the starter switch so I won't leave them on, so that's the next phase.  I didn't run them all the way home, and when I got home, one of the fuses that supply a feeder wire to the relay (which I mounted in the faring) had blown.  When I replaced it, it blew again.  Next step will be to remove the gas tank and inspect the wiring etc; because everything appears to be ok, I just think it may have gotten burnt or crimped.  I used some plastic conduit across most of the engine, but I know the Valk engine runs pretty hot.  

Thus, here's my question:  When you have run wiring from the battery area to the faring have you had the same issue?  (I used #10 wire for the feeders)  I suspect whatever it is will show up when I pull the tank etc;  but since I was sitting at the office etc;  thought I'd get some feedback.  Thanks for your input, and to those who gave tips on the install.




« Last Edit: November 23, 2010, 08:51:23 AM by Boomer » Logged
wizard -vrccds#125
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« Reply #1 on: November 23, 2010, 10:47:07 AM »

DO NOT ! I REPEAT ! DO NOT RUN THRU THE STARTER SWITCH ! You will fry it ! I changed to a 100w headlight bulb. With in 30 days the switch was fried. They are not built to handle any extra wattage.
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Boomer
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« Reply #2 on: November 23, 2010, 11:20:33 AM »

Wizard....

Did you wire using a relay etc; ??  And still had the issue?

Following were the instructions I was going to follow....

I already have a rocker switch on the faring so I have control over the lights, but thought I'd wire it different so if I forgot to turn them off....

On Valk Interstate it is in the six pin mini connector coming from the throttle side harness). Don't use your LIGHT BLUE/WHITE running light wire. Use the DARK BLUE with WHITE TRACE wire with a single pole single throw switch - your basic plain vanilla regular SPST two terminal (one in one out) switch - to your relay trigger hot (86). Since this wire is unpowered when the starter button is pushed, your fog lamps will go out with the headlight to reduce stress on your battery during starting. One should ONLY wire as the drawing above shows and use a relay. Should you wire your lamps directly to the DARK BLUE with WHITE TRACE wire without a relay, you risk burning up your starter switch. USE A RELAY!
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wizard -vrccds#125
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« Reply #3 on: November 23, 2010, 11:34:21 AM »

That is why it did not fry rightaway. If you ever look inside the starter switch you will understand why. Use the Aux fuse in the fusebox. It only has power with key on, and I think that is what you are trying to do ? Much safer than risking starter switch fail on a trip. O you may want to change the Aux fuse to a higher amp.
« Last Edit: November 23, 2010, 11:37:05 AM by wizard -vrccds#125 » Logged
Boomer
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« Reply #4 on: November 23, 2010, 12:44:47 PM »

Here's a dumb question, but when I glanced at the fuse box and pulled the cover, I didn't really see a post or place to connect a wire, is it on the backside, thus I have to remove the fuse panel?
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