Auxillary fuse panel

[Alaskamike]

I am installing an auxiliary fuse panel  (PC-8, from Beaver Electric)  on my 97 Tourer.   I need to bring in a switched hot to it.    My belly tank is already hooked to the auxiliary plug-ins (this tank uses a fuel pump to bring gas to engine).   

My question is
1.    Should I ( or could I) tie into the hot line from the auxiliary plug-ins?   My concern here is that the belly tank is already hooked up there, and I don’t know what size fuse that line is in.  Would it be too much of a load for it?  I plan on installing my motosens gauges to the PC-8, and PIAA aux lights, maybe a few LEDs.

2.   And, 2nd, if it is not advisable to tie in there,  I could….
         
     a.   hook the belly tank leads into the new fuse box, and use the auxiliary plug in for my switched lead into the PC-8 fuse box

              b.  leave the belly tank where it is, and find a new switched lead to attach to the new fuse box.   And if I do it this way where would be the best place to find that switched lead? 

What would you advise?

Thanks.   This is all new to me, I am learning so much about 12v wiring and having fun with customizing this bike!

[Anthony]

i propose you take 2 a
= easy, clean

Anthony

[MP]

I ran the hot to my aux. panel direct from the battery, to a relay, then to the panel,  with a fuse.

I used the headlight wire for the control wire to the relay for the aux. panel.  That way, any load on the aux. panel is turned off for starting the bike.

MP

[HayHauler]

That's the way to do it there MP...
Never thought of it that way.  Use that lead to run the relay to run all of the other stuff...
hmmmm....

Hay 
Jimmyt

[ptgb]

I had the same setup as Option 1 on my 97 Standard except the aux power powered the belly tank direct and triggered a relay to flow power to motosens gauges only (not a fuse panel). Rode it that way for thousands of miles without any problems. Remember, you are only triggering a relay with the aux circuit which allows power (direct from the battery) to flow to the fuse panel's "keyed" hots. That takes very little "load" to the bike's aux circuit so that combined with a belly tank fuel pump was fine.

I did it this way then because I put the belly tank and the gauges on at different times and never thought I had a need for a fuse panel.

Now with that being said, I think the better way would be your Option "2A"... hook the belly tank up to the fuse panel and only have the relay trigger hooked up to the aux. Why? I think it makes for a much cleaner install, centralizes all your auxiliary power needs to the fuse panel (one of the reasons to have it there, no?), and allows for easier tracing of problems down the road, as all your accessories are powered from one central location. If you do decide to go this route and hook up the belly tank to the fuse panel, then MP's way won't work.

MP's way of hooking it up is understandable and a good way, but ONLY if all the accessories you hook up to the fuse panel, you don't mind having power momentarily cut off to them when you push the starter button.

In that scenario on the Eastern Beaver PC-8 (assuming you are using Eastern Beaver's harness/relay kit to hook it up), you have leads which are hot all the time because they hook directly to the battery... those will remain hot whether the key is on or off AND when you push the starter button. Most use these always hot leads for GPS's and such.

Then you have leads which are hot only when the key in "on". In MP's way, when you turn the key on, these "keyed" hots will energize sending power through from the PC-8 to your gauges, belly tank (the fuel pump will start pumping), and whatever else you hook up to the PC-8... BUT when you press the starter button it will momentarily shut off power to the "keyed" hots, same as it cuts power to the headlight, thus cutting power to the fuel pump. Theoretically the bike may still start with this momentary shut down to the fuel pump as the system will be pressurized, but it might not. It will definitely not start in a cold start situation where you would have to hold the starter button for more than a second or two as the fuel pump will not be pumping for that time.

In your case, you should hook it up using your Option "2A". Hope I didn't muck up your waters with this long-winded explanation 
 

[Alaskamike]

no mucking going on!   Thanks for the input.  I just knew I couldn't be the only one working with this set-up.  before soldering and tying everything up, I just like to be sure I'm not messing it up, or want to change my mind later and do it over again.

I think I will use the switched aux to power the PC-8 panel and then jsut p[ut everything I need in there.  Cleanest way .  The harness I got with it is perfect, adn the panel is high quality and fits very nicely in the batt box.

Always learning!   Mike.

[MP]

Cannot disagree with this, ptgb.  The main thing I was running off the aux panel was/is lights and heated gear.  Both can put quite a load on, so I wanted that load OFF when starting. 

Fuel pump might not want to be hooked up that way.  I would think though, that once the pump ran a few seconds, the carbs would be full, and would be plenty to start the bike, even if cold.  If not, one usually does not run the starter for a long time, without pausing to let it cool.  This would let the pump run again if needed.  I think however hooked up would work fine.

MP

I had the same setup as Option 1 on my 97 Standard except the aux power powered the belly tank direct and triggered a relay to flow power to motosens gauges only (not a fuse panel). Rode it that way for thousands of miles without any problems. Remember, you are only triggering a relay with the aux circuit which allows power (direct from the battery) to flow to the fuse panel's "keyed" hots. That takes very little "load" to the bike's aux circuit so that combined with a belly tank fuel pump was fine.

I did it this way then because I put the belly tank and the gauges on at different times and never thought I had a need for a fuse panel.

Now with that being said, I think the better way would be your Option "2A"... hook the belly tank up to the fuse panel and only have the relay trigger hooked up to the aux. Why? I think it makes for a much cleaner install, centralizes all your auxiliary power needs to the fuse panel (one of the reasons to have it there, no?), and allows for easier tracing of problems down the road, as all your accessories are powered from one central location. If you do decide to go this route and hook up the belly tank to the fuse panel, then MP's way won't work.

MP's way of hooking it up is understandable and a good way, but ONLY if all the accessories you hook up to the fuse panel, you don't mind having power momentarily cut off to them when you push the starter button.

In that scenario on the Eastern Beaver PC-8 (assuming you are using Eastern Beaver's harness/relay kit to hook it up), you have leads which are hot all the time because they hook directly to the battery... those will remain hot whether the key is on or off AND when you push the starter button. Most use these always hot leads for GPS's and such.

Then you have leads which are hot only when the key in "on". In MP's way, when you turn the key on, these "keyed" hots will energize sending power through from the PC-8 to your gauges, belly tank (the fuel pump will start pumping), and whatever else you hook up to the PC-8... BUT when you press the starter button it will momentarily shut off power to the "keyed" hots, same as it cuts power to the headlight, thus cutting power to the fuel pump. Theoretically the bike may still start with this momentary shut down to the fuel pump as the system will be pressurized, but it might not. It will definitely not start in a cold start situation where you would have to hold the starter button for more than a second or two as the fuel pump will not be pumping for that time.

In your case, you should hook it up using your Option "2A". Hope I didn't muck up your waters with this long-winded explanation 
 

[Walküre]

I ran the hot to my aux. panel direct from the battery, to a relay, then to the panel,  with a fuse.

I used the headlight wire for the control wire to the relay for the aux. panel.  That way, any load on the aux. panel is turned off for starting the bike.

MP

MP - dragging up an old thread, I know, but have a few questions. I'm getting ready to do all my electrics, isolating the headlight switch, hooking up Cobra light bar, putting front signals on the rear, with red lenses, etc, etc.

Questions:

What size relay did you end up powering your fuse block with? With 6 circuits (on mine), it could pull some amps. I intend to hook my charger circuit up to it, my C/obras (55W X 2), a cig lighter to power air pump, maybe a phone or ipod charger, and if I ever get heated gear, maybe those. If my figuring is correct, the Cobras alone, at 110 / 12, pull almost 10 amps, and they will be on 90% of the time.

Where is your panel located? I'm seriously thinking about putting the manual and original tool pouch away, and mounting mine back in those slots by the battery. It will also fit under the right side panel, but I've lost a few Goldwing panels for various reasons, so I'm a believer that the less I am in them, the better!

You also mention that you used the headlight control (dark blue/white, I'm assuming) to power your relay. Where did you take the connection of that lead? Inside the bucket, and run a wire back to the relay?

Also, I intend to have two relays on my lights - one for the Cobra's, and the other off the headlight wire (blue/white), for the headlight. I will be taking the entire load off of the blue/white, as it will just be used to trigger the two relays, and not have the headlight on it anymore. I plan to put both relays in the headlight bucket. Things will be getting a little crowded in there...

Thanks,

Roger

[Garfield]

I use a 40 amp relay to run my fuse block, and I have it connected to the accessory fuse on the bike. That way it all is shut off with the key. I run a stereo with XM from my fairing, GPS, light bar with 2 55w light on it, and a connection for heated gear. I will soon have a new air horn connected to it as soon as I can get that damn bracket off. I think bolt was put on with lock tite and it will not budge.

[Walküre]

I will soon have a new air horn connected to it as soon as I can get that damn bracket off. I think bolt was put on with lock tite and it will not budge.

Which bolt would that be? I find that a good quality impact screwdriver does wonders, on stuck bolts, especially if they aren't boogered up, just seized from never being off, or even loctite. Usually one good rap is all it takes. Just make sure you "preload" it in the right direction, before taking the hammer to it. They are usually 1/2" drive, so you can put a socket on it, instead of the screwdriver bit.

[Madmike]

I ran the hot to my aux. panel direct from the battery, to a relay, then to the panel,  with a fuse.

I used the headlight wire for the control wire to the relay for the aux. panel.  That way, any load on the aux. panel is turned off for starting the bike.

MP

MP - dragging up an old thread, I know, but have a few questions. I'm getting ready to do all my electrics, isolating the headlight switch, hooking up Cobra light bar, putting front signals on the rear, with red lenses, etc, etc.


Roger

I'm not sure where you put the fuse but IMHO the best location would be as close to the supply coming from the battery as is  practical.  So the order would be Battery, fuse, relay, panel - this way the fuse will protect everything except the first run of wire coming from the battery positive.  A good location to pick up the power supply is at main inline fuse that supplies the power to the existing panel - if you take power off past the existing inline fuse (top lug of fuse holder) then you have the benefit of the existing fuse protecting the supply to the new panel, if you take power off at the bottom lug of the main fuse holder then you will likely want to protect this wiring by installing an additional inline fuse as close to the junction as is practical.

[olddog1946]

Correct me if I am wrong, but I don't believe you'd have any problem starting your bike, cold or not..the fuel pump is there to "lift" the fuel from the belly tank into the main tank, not to feed the carbs...so, losing power to the fuel pump while cranking the bike will not cause a "no start" condition....

[ptgb]

...the fuel pump is there to "lift" the fuel from the belly tank into the main tank, not to feed the carbs...so, losing power to the fuel pump while cranking the bike will not cause a "no start" condition....

Nope, had a belly tank. The main tank drains to the belly tank. The belly tank pumps directly to the carbs. There are actually three separate lines that are on the belly tank connecting to various points:

There are two lines between belly tank and main tank. A welded in fitting (added to main tank) with a large line drains main tank down to belly tank. There is a line that runs from belly tank up to main tank (connects at the petcock - the petcock has nothing to do now with fuel delivery except with reserve fuel)... this is a vent line during normal operation. When you turn the fuel selector to reserve, the remaining fuel drains down this line (petcock to belly tank), then becomes a vent line again.

The third line on the belly tank is the line from pump to carb bank.

My install:

http://www.valkyrieguy.com/bellytank.htm

[olddog1946]

THANKS, I stand corrected...open mouth insert foot...the good news is I don't gain much weight that way..


.

...the fuel pump is there to "lift" the fuel from the belly tank into the main tank, not to feed the carbs...so, losing power to the fuel pump while cranking the bike will not cause a "no start" condition....

Nope, had a belly tank. The main tank drains to the belly tank. The belly tank pumps directly to the carbs. There are actually three separate lines that are on the belly tank connecting to various points:

There are two lines between belly tank and main tank. A welded in fitting (added to main tank) with a large line drains main tank down to belly tank. There is a line that runs from belly tank up to main tank (connects at the petcock - the petcock has nothing to do now with fuel delivery except with reserve fuel)... this is a vent line during normal operation. When you turn the fuel selector to reserve, the remaining fuel drains down this line (petcock to belly tank), then becomes a vent line again.

The third line on the belly tank is the line from pump to carb bank.

My install:

http://www.valkyrieguy.com/bellytank.htm