38 slow jets

[3W-lonerider]

i know iv'e seen before where you can order 38 slows for the valk..do we have a vrcc vender that is selling them or where is everybody getting them..i'd like to replace mine this year.

[Ricky-D]

38's are a size larger that stock, which are 35's

Just thought I'd mention that in case you were not aware of what stock size actually is.

***

[3W-lonerider]

yes..i was aware hat 35's are in there now..the problem iv'e been having for awhile now is..when slowing down to make a turn like at a green light after the turn is made i try to excellerate only to have the bike cut out then kick in and go. been running carb cleaner threw it but only helps for awhile. bike idles fine so i'm thinking that they arn't plugged but with the crappy gas we get now adays that the bike is just having a harder time running off the 35 slows.

[PharmBoy]

www.sudco.com, email:(sudco@sudco.com), phone = 323-728-5407.  Part # KE 019.006, Description = 21-38 SLOW JET ... Order 6 ea.  They were $4.67 ea about 3 years ago.  I think that I have touched the choke one time since installing the 38 slow jets.  Idle is smooth and leaving the line is also.  Anyone who answers the phone will know which jet you want after he knows you ride a Valkyrie...JTL

[3W-lonerider]

thanks..gonna order them on monday..i think my baby will appeciate it..

[Patrick]

Do you happen to know where the pilots are set??  Generally initially they are at about 1.75 turns and 2.25 seems to work best for 35s.. Most folks have been setting them at about 1.5 with the 38s..

[PharmBoy]

I initially set my 38s at 1.5 turns out from lightly closed.  It ran great.  Ran it for a while and just for curiosity's sake I pulled the plugs and found that a couple of them were running a little lean.  I increased those two carbs to 1.75 turns out.  Still runs great, but I feel better about it now...JTL

[GOOSE]

lonerider...... i got mine from factory pro/179 paul drive/san rafael,ca/phone # 1-415-491-5920/talk with leigh thomas (a man... pronounced lee).  tell him you want 38 slow jets for a valkyrie (his part # is CRZ-21-38).  the price is 4.95 each times 6 = $29.70 + shipping.  factory pro jet #'s are almost identical to honda's #'s...ie  a factory pro # 35 is the same as a honda # 35.  a lot of aftermarket jets don't match up the same.  good luck...you will appreciate how much better your "FAT LADY"  runs with the 38's.

[fordmano]

Not to down Antibes suggestions BUT, I got my 38's and my 105 mains from www.rockmountainatv.com with shipping was only $44 3 day delivery to my door. I spent Hours and hours comparing prices.

Seems like the 38's were only $3 something a piece.

[3W-lonerider]

i have my pilots set at 1 and 3/4. i tried 2 turns and could smell strong gas fumes out the exhaust..turned them back a quarter and everything was fine..it started doing this with the stock trigger wheel..so i installed a 4 degree and it still does it..seems like the only time it really happens is if my tach is below 2 grand..it will also try to stall from a dead take off like pulling out from a stop sign. then gives a big jerk and takes off.

[98valk]

any pilot jet works up to 4 turns out. some 4 1/2.

open up your mixture screws 1/2 turn at a time and then ride each time. u will find improvement without having to go to 38s.

factorypro has short article on pilots in their tech section.

[3W-lonerider]

if i open those screws more than i have them now..the exhaust will burn your eyes..it will burn that rich.

[ILcruiser]

Got mine from Jets R Us, bought the genuine Keihin 38s

http://www.jetsrus.com/a_jets_by_carburetor_type/jets_keihin_N424-26_slow_36-xxx.htm

+1 on what the others have said, 1.75 turns on the pilot screw is the sweet spot on my bike.  The new jets noticeably improved the low rpm performance.

[98valk]

if i open those screws more than i have them now..the exhaust will burn your eyes..it will burn that rich.

then why would u go richer with 38s?
what needles do u have?
if the strong gas odor is at a cold idle, then that is normal.
if still doing it once at operating temps, then it is most likely needles, dyna needles or oem shimmed to much?
sometimes polishing the intake manifolds to 300-400 grit with 60 grit on the short radius helps or elimates it. it did in my case.
how many miles on airfilter? last time it was changed?
check needle diaphragms, there have been cases of one or two torn causing bad running like u discribe.

[3W-lonerider]

if i open those screws more than i have them now..the exhaust will burn your eyes..it will burn that rich.

then why would u go richer with 38s?
what needles do u have?
if the strong gas odor is at a cold idle, then that is normal.
if still doing it once at operating temps, then it is most likely needles, dyna needles or oem shimmed to much?
sometimes polishing the intake manifolds to 300-400 grit with 60 grit on the short radius helps or elimates it. it did in my case.
how many miles on airfilter? last time it was changed?
check needle diaphragms, there have been cases of one or two torn causing bad running like u discribe.

new air filter,, carbs have never been touched with the exception of pilot screw adjustment and carb sync. i'm just trying to cure a low rpm stumble problem. vacuum lines are new..intake o-rings are only a year old. bike runs great otherwise. average 38 mpg as a trike. runs like a raped ape at WOT. bike has 141,000 miles on it. if you have any other suggestions of what this low rpm stumble problem is..fire away..because i'm out of ideas..

[fudgie]

not to highjack but will it change mpg any going to the 38's?

[3W-lonerider]

it should'nt..you be using alittle less throttle when under 3000 rpm's.

[Ricky-D]

A "low rpm stumble" with CV carburetors is indeed indicative of a problem. Whether it is carburetor related or not, to me, is the question.

I'd suggest doing a compression test to gain information as to the health of the motor.

I think consideration of the problem being electrical ought not be dismissed out of hand.

A poorly performing battery will affect the same symptoms you describe.

***

[3W-lonerider]

A "low rpm stumble" with CV carburetors is indeed indicative of a problem. Whether it is carburetor related or not, to me, is the question.

I'd suggest doing a compression test to gain information as to the health of the motor.

I think consideration of the problem being electrical ought not be dismissed out of hand.

A poorly performing battery will affect the same symptoms you describe.

***

i totally agree but iv'e had 2 brand new battey's and a high output altenator put in while having this problem..so that would rule out each..this is not a new problem..it's been a reacurring problem for the last 2 years..iv'e just been living with it. but the last couple of times i rode it has just gotten progressively worse to the point that if you try taking off from a dead stop without giving ample throttle it will stall the engine. maybe it's just me being lazy on the throttle at starts but that does'nt explain the turns where it just cuts out for a second when trying to excellerate.. this occurence does not happen if throttle is kept above 2 grand while making the turn. it could also be that since installing the trike kit that added an extra 400# to the equasion..but my thinking is this ethenol does'nt burn the same as straight gas and it's quite possible that when the engine is at low rpm's. the engine is only getting what its getting off the low jets..when you try to give it extra all of a sudden it like floods the engine temperarly then the plugs ignite it all at once to give it the jerk. ( so yes you might have something that maybe i'm loosing voltage to the coils at low rpm's..) i'll deffinatly check into that..maybe corrosion someplace..

[98valk]

do u have I/S springs installed? with all that weight u need an accelerator pump, which is what the weaker I/S springs will accomplish,
or u can drill the slide holes. can be expensive if u drill too large.

good info
http://faq.f650.com/FAQs/CarbMiscFAQ.htm#Flat spot in carburetion

[3W-lonerider]

the bike is an i/s..so yes it has the i/s carbs.

[Pete]

Have had the same problem on several bikes. Most of the time it was fixed with a richer mixture and/or a carb sync.

First thing I would try is opening up the low speed mixture screws 1/4 turn at a time and test until the problem is resolved or until it becomes to rich(then it was not the problem) as CA mentioned.