Ok, so I am an idiot. (Stuck Driveshaft)

[deadwood]

Did the pinion cup/driveshaft change out a couple of weeks ago due to the clunking in the drivetrain.  (2001 I/S with 63K). Shaft and cup were shot.

Got a used (9000 mile) cup/shaft/u-joint locally from a 1500 Goldwing that I was told would fit.
Put it all back together (Used moly greese on everything) and after about 120 miles started getting another “clunking”.

Started to tear it back down when I noticed the four pumpkin nuts were only finger tight. I apparently forgot to go back and tighten them after the rear axle was tightened. (Hence the subject line of my post)

Tightened them up again but when I rode it the clunk was still there.

Pulled the pumpkin off and the driveshaft stayed in the u-joint. The drive shaft is stuck solid in the u-joint. Even broke a high quality(?) Harbor Freight slide hammer trying to get it out. It’s in there good. The u-joint slides off the output shaft just fine.
 

Pinion cup and splines on that end of the driveshaft look OK. (I haven't really cleaned them yet for a good look however.)

So a couple of questions.

1.   Do you think it was the loose pumpkin nuts that trashed the shaft/u-joint splines? (Fortunately, I have a spare u-joint)

OR

2.   I noticed the Goldwing 1500 driveshaft is actually a different part number that the Valkyrie. Think that could be why it got trashed (It went together OK)

3.   Looks like I may have to pull the swing arm to pull the u-joint and shaft out the front of the swing arm. The manual notes a special lock nut tool that’s required to pull the swing arm. Has anyone removed and re-installed the swing arm without this tool? Any tricks?

Any advice would be appreciated.

[Hoghead]

Sorry i can't help with your question, but if it makes you feel any better every good mechanic has a screw loose every now and then.

[BigMac (SoCal)]

I don't believe that the 1500 wing drive shaft will work. They are to long. You need a drive shaft
from a 1200 goldwing. Just going by what I was told by a Goldwing mechanic. I'm sure others will chime in. It might be really shoved in there but I don't see how you could have gotten the pumpkin back on if it was too long.

Dave 

[Daniel Meyer]

I wouldn't expect the finger tight pumpkin nuts to cause this issue...there is plenty of flex in the pinion joint and the driveshaft/ujoint hookup are pretty durable...

I would expect that the shaft doesn't fit for some reason...too long as Big Mac said above sounds like it could be the issue. You *could* get the pumpkin on if the shaft was just a bit long...the length of that run varies (longer when the swing arm is all the way up or down, shortest when straight on) and the splines at the shaft/ujoint slip a bit...but it too long it maybe jammed when you hit the shortest point...

[hubcapsc]

I don't believe that the 1500 wing drive shaft will work. They are to long. You need a drive shaft
from a 1200 goldwing. Just going by what I was told by a Goldwing mechanic. I'm sure others will chime in. It might be really shoved in there but I don't see how you could have gotten the pumpkin back on if it was too long.

Dave 

2003 Valkyrie
SHAFT, PROPELLER
40201-MZ0-A00

JOINT, YOKE
40200-MZ0-A00

1500 wing
SHAFT, PROPELLER
40201-MAM-A60

JOINT, YOKE
40200-MZ0-A00

I checked several years of 1200 wing... they don't list a part number for the drive shaft... scary  ???

-Mike

[Chrisj CMA]

I don't believe that the 1500 wing drive shaft will work. They are to long. You need a drive shaft
from a 1200 goldwing. Just going by what I was told by a Goldwing mechanic. I'm sure others will chime in. It might be really shoved in there but I don't see how you could have gotten the pumpkin back on if it was too long.

Dave 

2003 Valkyrie
SHAFT, PROPELLER
40201-MZ0-A00

JOINT, YOKE
40200-MZ0-A00

1500 wing
SHAFT, PROPELLER
40201-MAM-A60

JOINT, YOKE
40200-MZ0-A00

I checked several years of 1200 wing... they don't list a part number for the drive shaft... scary  ???

-Mike

There was a few years that the 1500 Wing and Valkyrie did share the same drive shaft.  A friend of mine had such a Wing, but not ALL the 1500 Wings did...........never go by what a "guy at the dealer says"  they only care about one thing.....your money in their cash drawer

[Sodbuster]

According to BikeBandit the part numbers for '87 1200 & '88 1500 driveshaft are different.

Also, I thought I read somewhere that when the Valkyrie came out the GoldWing parts were superseded to match the Valkyrie,

[deadwood]

OK, I'm pretty well convinced the driveshaft is the cause of the issue.

The big question now is how to remove the swingarm witrhout the "special tool".

According to BikeBandit the part numbers for '87 1200 & '88 1500 driveshaft are different.

Also, I thought I read somewhere that when the Valkyrie came out the GoldWing parts were superseded to match the Valkyrie,

[Jess from VA]

The big question now is how to remove the swingarm witrhout the "special tool".

You do not need to remove the swingarm to remove the U-joint.  Disassemble all (wheel, pumpkin, shaft and pinion), pull the right sidecover, tie wires out of the way (brake reservoir too, try not to turn it upside down), slip off rubber boot, Ujoint will come out the side cover hole. 

I found this VERY helpful...  http://rattlebars.com/mtz/ujoint.html

[Sodbuster]

Hey Jess -
I think Deadwood's dilemma is his driveshaft is stuck/locked in the u-joint .... sounds like they need to be removed together as ONE

[deadwood]

You are correct. The u-joint and driveshaft have apparently bonded themselves together for life in holy matrimony.... It appears the only way to remove them is out the front.

Checked on the price of the special tool today.  Looks like $100+  Tried making one out of a 1 1/16 inch socket but that didn’t go to well either.

Maybe I’ll go to the guy who sold me the drive shaft and borrow his.

Hey Jess -
I think Deadwood's dilemma is his driveshaft is stuck/locked in the u-joint .... sounds like they need to be removed together as ONE

[Jess from VA]

Hey Jess -
I think Deadwood's dilemma is his driveshaft is stuck/locked in the u-joint .... sounds like they need to be removed together as ONE

Whoops... read the whole thread yesterday, but not today.

As RoseAnnRoseAnnaDana said................. nevermind.   

[Ricky-D]

Removing the swingarm can be a real problem maker!

I would try everything possible before resorting to removing the swingarm.

Getting the boot out of the way, like cutting it off,  will reveal the u-joint pretty good.

If there was a way to support the u-joint, so the force of removal will not impinge the output shaft on the motor, a lot of force could be applied to the punkin end of the drive shaft with different tools. There are so many ways to grab the drive shaft. Just have to be resourceful!

Stabilizing the u-joint may or may not be easy, but I can see jamming in screwdrivers, clamps, bolts, just about anything in the shop that will produce the desired result of holding the u-joint steady and non-moveable.

Remember that reusing any of those parts is not planned so any damage to the parts is acceptable in removing them. No need to be nice!

Have you ever seen a 16" vicegrip?

***

[hubcapsc]

Removing the swingarm can be a real problem maker!
I would try everything possible before resorting to removing the swingarm.

How come?

I took mine off. I thought it was easy. Heck, I take off the shocks when I pull the wheel, there's
not much else before you can take the swingarm off - it is even light. I followed the retorquing
procedure in the manual, it seems OK to me...

Deadwood... I could loan you the tool if you need...

-Mike

[deadwood]

What problems will I encounter?

With as far as I've come now, I remove the rear brake line bolt, left lower shock bolt, the swing arm piviots and it comes off, correct?

I found the tool online today for $59 so I just ordered it.

Removing the swingarm can be a real problem maker!

I would try everything possible before resorting to removing the swingarm.

Getting the boot out of the way, like cutting it off,  will reveal the u-joint pretty good.

If there was a way to support the u-joint, so the force of removal will not impinge the output shaft on the motor, a lot of force could be applied to the punkin end of the drive shaft with different tools. There are so many ways to grab the drive shaft. Just have to be resourceful!

Stabilizing the u-joint may or may not be easy, but I can see jamming in screwdrivers, clamps, bolts, just about anything in the shop that will produce the desired result of holding the u-joint steady and non-moveable.

Remember that reusing any of those parts is not planned so any damage to the parts is acceptable in removing them. No need to be nice!

Have you ever seen a 16" vicegrip?

***

[RP#62]

I pull mine every other spline lube, to check the u-joint and pivot bearings.  Its not that big of a deal.
-RP

[fudgie]

Can you wrap a rubber strap around it and pull it out the back?

[RonW]

I found the tool online today for $59 so I just ordered it.

On what Ebay page was the tool on. I'm searching for another Valkyrie repair too? Thanks.

[alph]

funny thing, i'm going through the same thing right now.  i got a used drive shaft and compaired it to my old one, you could see that it was a full inch longer then the original (thankfully i only paid $11 for it!).  that's what ruined your union joint!!  did you compair the old drive shaft with the "new" one? 

good advice to everyone, bring your old part into the dealer, and compair it with the new.  NEVER TRUST THE GUY BEHIND THE COUNTER!!   i've made many trips back for returns when i was younger!!

[deadwood]

Honda Direct Line

http://www.hdlparts.com/default.asp

You may have to call them about tools.

I found the tool online today for $59 so I just ordered it.

On what Ebay page was the tool on. I'm searching for another Valkyrie repair too? Thanks.

[Ricky-D]

Pulling the drive shaft out from the pumpkin end of the swing arm is Ok and the easiest!

When there is resistance to this in that a lot of force is required (like prying or hammering) it is very important to stabilize the u-joint to avoid doing damage to the output shaft at the motor or damage to the bearings on the same shaft.

If you make the swingarm straight line from the motor output shaft you can get the u-joint to slide off the output shaft quite a bit: and because of the large size of the u-joint it will jam in the swingarm and there will be enough of the drive shaft revealed to allow hammering the drive shaft loose. I put a large size open end wrench on the drive shaft end and hammer on the wrench. The drive shaft will break loose and come right on out.

Knock the u-joint a little to loosen it and it will come out through the front access area behind the rear brake assembly.

***

[deadwood]

Update on my stuck driveshaft/u-joint issue.
 Been out of town for work for a few weeks but when I got back all my parts were there including the swingarm locknut removal tool.
Got the swingarm off with no trouble.  Took only about 10 min more. Easy.
With a little bit of trouble I pulled the driveshaft/u-joint  “combo” out the front.  It’s a tight fit but it does come out.
Laid it up against the new driveshaft and found, as some out you suggested, the Goldwing driveshaft that I was given is significantly longer than the Valkyrie, but unfortunately not long enough that you can’t get it together. See Pic.
So I got the swingarm back on, (again, an easy job with the right tool) and should be on the road tomorrow.
I still cannot get the old driveshaft separated from the old u-joint. Even with the shaft clamped in a bench vise and beating on the u-joint with a hammer, it won’t budge, Interesting.

Lesson learned: The pinion cup, u-joint from a 1500 Goldwing will fit a Valkyre but not the driveshaft.

Did the pinion cup/driveshaft change out a couple of weeks ago due to the clunking in the drivetrain.  (2001 I/S with 63K). Shaft and cup were shot.

Got a used (9000 mile) cup/shaft/u-joint locally from a 1500 Goldwing that I was told would fit.
Put it all back together (Used moly greese on everything) and after about 120 miles started getting another “clunking”.

Started to tear it back down when I noticed the four pumpkin nuts were only finger tight. I apparently forgot to go back and tighten them after the rear axle was tightened. (Hence the subject line of my post)

Tightened them up again but when I rode it the clunk was still there.

Pulled the pumpkin off and the driveshaft stayed in the u-joint. The drive shaft is stuck solid in the u-joint. Even broke a high quality(?) Harbor Freight slide hammer trying to get it out. It’s in there good. The u-joint slides off the output shaft just fine.
 

Pinion cup and splines on that end of the driveshaft look OK. (I haven't really cleaned them yet for a good look however.)

So a couple of questions.

1.   Do you think it was the loose pumpkin nuts that trashed the shaft/u-joint splines? (Fortunately, I have a spare u-joint)

OR

2.   I noticed the Goldwing 1500 driveshaft is actually a different part number that the Valkyrie. Think that could be why it got trashed (It went together OK)

3.   Looks like I may have to pull the swing arm to pull the u-joint and shaft out the front of the swing arm. The manual notes a special lock nut tool that’s required to pull the swing arm. Has anyone removed and re-installed the swing arm without this tool? Any tricks?

Any advice would be appreciated.

[Sodbuster]

Thanks for the update .... good to hear all is well

Sounds like an early X-mas present