Extra electrical power?

[Chiefy]

Wondering how much extra power a stock Standard has for running electrical accessories?

[hubcapsc]

Wondering how much extra power a stock Standard has for running electrical accessories?

I've never gone down the road blowing my quad horns with my socks & vest & gloves fired up
while my motolights and halogen spots were both turned on, but our alternator is rated at 546 watts...

Now I'm wondering what might happen some cold dark night if I need to blow the horn 

-Mike

[Daniel Meyer]

...Now I'm wondering what might happen some cold dark night if I need to blow the horn 

The flux and magnetic fields are difficult to calculate, but essentially you will warp into a completely different universe.

[Chiefy]

Wondering how much extra power a stock Standard has for running electrical accessories?

I've never gone down the road blowing my quad horns with my socks & vest & gloves fired up
while my motolights and halogen spots were both turned on, but our alternator is rated at 546 watts...

Now I'm wondering what might happen some cold dark night if I need to blow the horn 

-Mike

So a total of 546 watts.  Anyone know what the consumed wattage is on a standard with all the stock lights on?

[ptgb]

Here's a nice primer on electrical loads/capacity for various motorcycles, including our Valks. Can't vouch for its accuracy, but it is by a "real" company - Powerlet, not some garage jockey (not that there's anything wrong with that  ).


http://www.powerlet.com/learningCenter/excessCapacity

[Chiefy]

Here's a nice primer on electrical loads/capacity for various motorcycles, including our Valks. Can't vouch for its accuracy, but it is by a "real" company - Powerlet, not some garage jockey (not that there's anything wrong with that  ).


http://www.powerlet.com/learningCenter/excessCapacity

Thanks it showed (aprox) 296 extra watts.  My own calculation was more, but I'll err on their side then.

[gordonv]

Now, how would we do this properly?

Remove the positive lead from the battery, attached a proper Amp meter between the 2 ends (batter post and + wire), one rated up to 600 + Amps.

While whatching the read out, start and run your bike. Turn eveything on, lights on high beam, etc, etc. and see what draw you have. This should give you your actual Amps your bike draws.

Then with the information supplied above and on the link, you can figure out how much extra power you have for all those extras you might want to add on your bike.

[FryeVRCCDS0067]

...Now I'm wondering what might happen some cold dark night if I need to blow the horn 

The flux and magnetic fields are difficult to calculate, but essentially you will warp into a completely different universe.

Ahhh, that explains it. When I woke up here I wasn't sure what happened. I'll reverse the battery leads and see if I can get back in time for dinner.

[Daniel Meyer]

Now, how would we do this properly?

Remove the positive lead from the battery, attached a proper Amp meter between the 2 ends (batter post and + wire), one rated up to 600 + Amps.

While whatching the read out, start and run your bike. Turn eveything on, lights on high beam, etc, etc. and see what draw you have. This should give you your actual Amps your bike draws.

Then with the information supplied above and on the link, you can figure out how much extra power you have for all those extras you might want to add on your bike.

Actually just at the battery would not read the current the alternator was adding to the circuit that was used by the bike. The ammeter would need to have the battery/alternator on one side, and everything else on the other.

Also, it would need to be done at high rpm. The Valk ignition pulls a LOT of watts at high rpm.

[FLATSIX]

When you have +/- 300 amp off extra electr.power, how do I explain then , that when I mut my cobra-lightbar on with 2x55W.= 110W, my idle drops from 900 rpm to 750 - 800 rpm?

I have additional markerlights each 55w - there it did the same- at idel = -100 to 150 rpm when putting them on.

I used thick wire - relays as it should - power directly from battery through relay to the lamps.

If you have 300 watts over, does that mean that if you put 110 additional Watts on, that the engine (alternator) keeps doing its work like before and that the motor-idle stays unaffected when putting on a lightbar????

[gordonv]

Now, how would we do this properly?

Remove the positive lead from the battery, attached a proper Amp meter between the 2 ends (batter post and + wire), one rated up to 600 + Amps.

While whatching the read out, start and run your bike. Turn eveything on, lights on high beam, etc, etc. and see what draw you have. This should give you your actual Amps your bike draws.

Then with the information supplied above and on the link, you can figure out how much extra power you have for all those extras you might want to add on your bike.

Actually just at the battery would not read the current the alternator was adding to the circuit that was used by the bike. The ammeter would need to have the battery/alternator on one side, and everything else on the other.

Also, it would need to be done at high rpm. The Valk ignition pulls a LOT of watts at high rpm.

That's right, you would need to do this at the alternator, not the battery, to show the power output. I wasn't trying to get too technical, with needing to run the engine at idle, and then full rpm (or standard speed 3-3.5K rpm).