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Author Topic: Adding your own studs  (Read 2843 times)
Chiefy
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Posts: 1046


Sarasota, Florida


« on: December 03, 2010, 05:06:53 AM »

Has anyone added their own studs to backrests and saddle bags?  From looking at one suppliers instructions, I really can't tell if it's going to be easy, or a (female dog.)  It's simple enough, just wondering how long it's going to take to cut all those holes in the leather and crimp everything down.  Saving money is great, but not if I'm working hours and hours at tedious tasks to save it.

I love the studded leather look.  Just picked up some used Corbins with Studs.  Nothing else on the bike is studded (yet.)
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1998 Valk Standard 52,500 miles
Black Dog
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Posts: 2606


VRCC # 7111

Merton Wisconsin 53029


« Reply #1 on: December 03, 2010, 06:10:13 AM »

Chiefy,

If yer at all handy, it's not hard to do...  I studded my Ultimate seat (purchased used, with no studs) and the driver backrest, along with the I/S Trunk backrest, using 'Mustang' studs.  The seat and backrests were easy, just poking the prongs on each stud through the seat cover.  Just be sure to measure and mark with white chalk or crayon, to match the spacing you already have on the seat.  To do the leather bags, they do have a tool made just for that purpose.  20 studs are less than $4 here - http://www.metricthunder.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=78079&Category_Code=CH08

Here is a pic of the seat and trunk pad I did... (as you can tell, I like the studded look too  Wink )



Good luck  cooldude

Black Dog
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Just when the highway straightened out for a mile
And I was thinkin' I'd just cruise for a while
A fork in the road brought a new episode
Don't you know...

Conform, go crazy, or ride a motorcycle...

Pete
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Posts: 2673


Frasier in Southeast Tennessee


« Reply #2 on: December 03, 2010, 06:21:16 AM »

Have done several items with studs.

Usually the most difficult part is reinstalling the cover over the padding so that it is smooth, straight and centered. It helps to do this on a warm day or in a warm room or gently warm the cover so it is easier to work with.

When measuring, marking for the studs and installing be consistent for the best look.

The studs are available via Tandy Leather in a 100 bulk pack for just a few dollars.

I would not rate the job as difficult, just a little tedious.

Have fun 
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John Schmidt
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Posts: 15236


a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #3 on: December 03, 2010, 07:10:24 AM »

I picked up a tool at Tandy Leather I think is called a 4 in 1 Punch....or something similar.  It has teeth in it that are adjustable/removeable and it's used to space your holes exactly. Most often used to punch holes for lacing, but I used it to punch holes for the two prongs on the studs. You can get different sized punches, the one I have is wide enough so I remove some of the teeth, left in one to be inserted in a previous hole, then two at the far end of the punch to actually pierce the leather for the two prongs on the studs. By doing it that way, you get exact spacing from one stud to the next. Then I used a special little two part thingy(don't recall the name) to bend the prongs on the stud. One part is an anvil with a concave center, the other part fits over the top of the stud and you tap it with a small hammer. The anvil causes the prongs to curl in, thereby attaching the stud. I highly recommend you test a couple studs on some scrap first.


And remember....most seat coverings are glued to the foam underneath. Often it's only the center flat area and up the back, but be careful so you don't pull out chunks of padding that sticks to the cover.

« Last Edit: December 03, 2010, 07:13:09 AM by John Schmidt » Logged

Ricky-D
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Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #4 on: December 03, 2010, 09:11:37 AM »

I feel that installing studs in vinyl is at best a temporary thing, especially so if the vinyl being studded is in an area that will be flexed and loaded.
I've seem many empty and torn areas on seats and backrests where studs were once present.

Leather to me is the best material to use.

***
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
Black Dog
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Posts: 2606


VRCC # 7111

Merton Wisconsin 53029


« Reply #5 on: December 03, 2010, 09:24:50 AM »

I feel that installing studs in vinyl is at best a temporary thing, especially so if the vinyl being studded is in an area that will be flexed and loaded.
I've seem many empty and torn areas on seats and backrests where studs were once present.


Ricky...  I gotta disagree...  The studs I put in my seat, and backrests (shown above) have been on the bike for more than 6 years.  The only stud that has ever been knocked off, was one on the drivers backrest, that happened to get in the way of my size 13 boot, as I was swinging a leg over.  There are exceptions to every rule, and I'm sure if you don't take care, damage could occure.  That being said, my 270 lb big white butt puts lotsa strain on my seat, and I've not seen or had any issues.

BTW, the reason I chose the 'Mustang' studs was that they are nickle plated brass, and don't tarnish or discolor as easy as other brands that are not made the same.  The studded front fender bib, in the picture (something I had made by a custom seat maker), has been on the bike for better than 10 years, and looks every bit as good as the studded rear fended bib (purchased from Mustang seats) I use when running solo.

YMMV  Wink

Black Dog
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Just when the highway straightened out for a mile
And I was thinkin' I'd just cruise for a while
A fork in the road brought a new episode
Don't you know...

Conform, go crazy, or ride a motorcycle...

9Ball
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Posts: 2183


South Jersey


« Reply #6 on: December 03, 2010, 12:44:34 PM »

AndyM just did his seats and they came out very nice....he might pipe in with some suggestions.
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VRCC #6897, Joined May, 2000

1999 Standard
2007 Rocket 3
2005 VTX 1300S
Black Dog
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Posts: 2606


VRCC # 7111

Merton Wisconsin 53029


« Reply #7 on: December 03, 2010, 01:42:20 PM »

Where did you get the front fender bib thingy at?

Mase...  It was a winter project a buncha years back...  Took my 'Rear' fender bib (Studded Mustang), and whole front fender, to a guy that does custom seats (Milwaukee WI).  I wanted him to make one for the front fender, to look like the Mustang Tank and fender bibs I already had.  He got the braiding from Mustang, and went to work...  It is actually rounded/fitted to the front fender, with a felt backing.  Held on in front by the National Cycle front fender tip, and at the rear by a short portion of door moulding, so I can lift it up for cleaning.  $100, and I believe it is a 'One of'  Wink

Added the VRCC 'shield', so it was just that much cooler.



Black Dog
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Just when the highway straightened out for a mile
And I was thinkin' I'd just cruise for a while
A fork in the road brought a new episode
Don't you know...

Conform, go crazy, or ride a motorcycle...

JimC
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Posts: 1820

SE Wisconsin


« Reply #8 on: December 03, 2010, 08:06:20 PM »

Mase,
What are you willing to pay?

I know where he parks his bike.

Jim
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Jim Callaghan    SE Wisconsin
f6rider
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Posts: 193


« Reply #9 on: December 03, 2010, 09:36:47 PM »

On my last Valk I replaced the studs with black pearl studs from mustang seats. I loved the look and will add it to the list for this valk.

John
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OverdueBill
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Posts: 420


Elkmont, Alabama


« Reply #10 on: December 04, 2010, 08:37:14 PM »

Well while ya'll are obtaining the fender bib, could you get me the floorboards?  I really think they are great.  Just what my rotten knees need to be happy on the valk.  Good work there, Black Dog.
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Alaskamike
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Posts: 101


gittin her done!

Wasilla, Alaska


« Reply #11 on: December 05, 2010, 01:59:57 AM »

For those who've done a seat... how do you get the studs crimped on?  Do you have to take the seat apart to get to both sides of the vinyl?  If you do, how do you get it stiched back together?   This is probably much simpler than I am imagining... but help me out here  Smiley
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9Ball
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Posts: 2183


South Jersey


« Reply #12 on: December 05, 2010, 02:07:21 AM »

depending on how the seat cover is held onto the seat pan, you either need to re-rivet (Mustang and probably others) or re-staple (ultimate).
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VRCC #6897, Joined May, 2000

1999 Standard
2007 Rocket 3
2005 VTX 1300S
Black Dog
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Posts: 2606


VRCC # 7111

Merton Wisconsin 53029


« Reply #13 on: December 05, 2010, 08:41:07 AM »

For those who've done a seat... how do you get the studs crimped on?

Mike...When adding studs to my seat (vinyl), it was just a simple matter of poking the two (sharp) prongs through the material, and bending them over towards the center of each stud.  For a few studs, you could use yer fingers...  For as many as I used, the edge of a flat bladed screwdriver saves some pain  uglystupid2

On leather, I've seen (but not used) a tool, that pokes the two holes, and somehow bends the prongs to keep the stud attached (probably the same tool John was talking about earlier).

On my Ultimate seat, and the I/S trunk backrest, I pulled the staples to remove the covor, and used my 'Bostch' air stapler (used in my woodworking hobby) to reattach.

Really not too hard, and very well worth it, if you take the time to plan it out, and do it right.

Black Dog
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Just when the highway straightened out for a mile
And I was thinkin' I'd just cruise for a while
A fork in the road brought a new episode
Don't you know...

Conform, go crazy, or ride a motorcycle...

Alaskamike
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*****
Posts: 101


gittin her done!

Wasilla, Alaska


« Reply #14 on: December 05, 2010, 05:31:47 PM »

Thanks guys... I think I'll go for the black peal look on my Ultimate Big Boys!
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"If you don't ride in the rain.... you don't ride"
Pete
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Posts: 2673


Frasier in Southeast Tennessee


« Reply #15 on: December 06, 2010, 06:26:39 AM »

Never used a tool, just used my thumb to press it in and to bend the tabs.
Would suggest that you bend the tabs more than 90 degrees, so the studs
will remain snug and secure.
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Spirited-6
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Posts: 2214


Nicholasville, Ky.


« Reply #16 on: December 06, 2010, 09:22:54 AM »

Never used a tool, just used my thumb to press it in and to bend the tabs.
Would suggest that you bend the tabs more than 90 degrees, so the studs
will remain snug and secure.
Damn Pete, how big is your thumb ?   Evil Kidding. My thumbs won`t do a lot these days. Comes with "AGE"   Cry
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~ Timbrwolf
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Posts: 1681


Northern Michigan VRCC # 8533


« Reply #17 on: December 06, 2010, 10:57:29 AM »

. ...Im one of those that didnt have very good luck studding my own....bout 8 years ago I did my Utopia backrest myself and a friend of mine back in jersey...who was in the upolstry business for 30 years ....did my OEM passenger backrest on my State....after about 5 years one the passenger backrest studs just came off in my hand one day while washing it...after a fre more years a few more came off along with a couple on my Utopia...as someone here was saying...now my passenger backrest has a dime size hole in it....and Im bumming cuz I keep my bike as pristine as I can.....definitely want a new seat...but not sure whether to go with an Ultimate or Corbin.....they both have features I dig...and needless to say when I do pull the trigger....it will come with....factory studding..
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Garfield
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Posts: 454


97 Standard

Phoenix, AZ


« Reply #18 on: December 06, 2010, 01:19:27 PM »

All I have to do is sit on the seat to add a stud. 2funny
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Pete
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Posts: 2673


Frasier in Southeast Tennessee


« Reply #19 on: December 06, 2010, 03:27:45 PM »

Never used a tool, just used my thumb to press it in and to bend the tabs.
Would suggest that you bend the tabs more than 90 degrees, so the studs
will remain snug and secure.
Damn Pete, how big is your thumb ?   Evil Kidding. My thumbs won`t do a lot these days. Comes with "AGE"   Cry

O, about and inch wide by 3 inches long.    cooldude

Always have had strong hands, which is probably the "secret".

OBTW: I am a young 66+.

Pressing the studs into vinyl is the easy part. Bending the tabs could be an issue for some.
Use a small stiff leather tab if you have "tender" thumbs.
« Last Edit: December 06, 2010, 03:29:16 PM by Pete » Logged
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