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Author Topic: Crush washer for oil drain bolt and final drive drain bolt- Same??  (Read 2213 times)
donaldcc
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Posts: 2956


Palm Desert, CA


« on: December 04, 2010, 12:25:42 PM »

  soon to change back tire and getting final drive parts.  are these 2 washers the same item??

   Also need coolant drain bolt sealing washer # 90463-ML7-000 and cannot find it on http://www.directlineparts.com/store.asp?str=2 where I am getting other items.  uglystupid2
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Don
Bone
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Posts: 1596


« Reply #1 on: December 04, 2010, 12:45:38 PM »

Went to HDL and used my 98 Tourer for the search. Both washers are listed with the same part number. 94109-14000 @ 14 mm. That says they are the same washer.

I didn't look for the coolant washer but entered the number you posted in the search bar and got the below results.

WASHER (6.5MM) (90463-ML7-000)  $2.50
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donaldcc
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Posts: 2956


Palm Desert, CA


« Reply #2 on: December 04, 2010, 01:18:35 PM »


  Thanks, bone.  got it.  cooldude
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Don
john
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Posts: 3018


tyler texas


« Reply #3 on: December 04, 2010, 03:28:55 PM »

no new washers in 7 years of oil changes ...     coolsmiley
no problemo ...     Smiley
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vrcc # 19002
98valk
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Posts: 13510


South Jersey


« Reply #4 on: December 04, 2010, 03:40:53 PM »

no new washers in 7 years of oil changes ...     coolsmiley
no problemo ...     Smiley

ditto +1, doesn't need to be replace unless its leaking.
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

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donaldcc
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Posts: 2956


Palm Desert, CA


« Reply #5 on: December 04, 2010, 04:44:07 PM »


  thanks for info guys.  I had recently changed oil and did replace the washer though as you say it likely did not need it.  Will change final drive oil when rear tire is off so was wondering about that washer.  got a pack of 10 from HDL for $3.24 so at 32 cent each I just splurged and replaced it with oil and will do the same with the final drive oil change (what the heck, 32 cents).

  I don't think coolant has been changed on my '97 tourer now with 18,000 mi (7,000 from me in the last 6 months) so will change that soon though it looks good to me.  do you replace the washer there? or only if problem??

   And I just changed spark plugs that had been changed 8,000 miles ago. OEM plugs and no problems, but I wanted to make sure they came out easy and wanted to take a look at them to make sure they looked like all cylinders firing appropriately.  they looked good to me with no abnormal deposits or burned areas so I think I am good for a while after rear tire and final drive.   New plugs were about $2.50 each NGK from autozone so I went for new there also, but will likely increase interval between changes.

  All six plugs looked like these, look good to me.  cooldude

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Don
9Ball
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Posts: 2183


South Jersey


« Reply #6 on: December 05, 2010, 02:14:37 AM »

I always replace the radiator drain bolt washer.  It's a small copper washer and very expensive if you buy from the dealer.  I think some have found similar replacements at the hardware stor for a few cents, as opposed to a few dollars.

I'm sure mother Honda has a reason for this washer being made out of copper instead of aluminum...my guess is to prevent or minimize galvanic corrosion to the carbon steel drain bolt in an aluminum radiator.
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VRCC #6897, Joined May, 2000

1999 Standard
2007 Rocket 3
2005 VTX 1300S
ILcruiser
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Posts: 214


Crystal Lake, IL


« Reply #7 on: December 05, 2010, 05:36:43 AM »

Those plugs are the poster children for good A/F mixture  cooldude
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1999 Valkyrie Standard
sandy
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Posts: 5394


Mesa, AZ.


« Reply #8 on: December 05, 2010, 08:39:30 AM »


 
    but I wanted to make sure they came out easy and wanted to take a look at them to make sure they looked like all cylinders firing appropriately. 


If you use Never-Sieze on spark plug threads, you'll never have to worry if they come out easily.
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