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Author Topic: Conflicting Spline Lube Info  (Read 10951 times)
Sodbuster
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« on: December 11, 2010, 09:10:25 AM »

After reading several posts on lubing the splines I can see where people get confused and make the wrong choice for lubing the splines. What IS confusing is the use of the term "splines". There are splines on the drive shaft and pinion cup and there are splines on the driven hub/flange (wheel).

From what I can decipher from what I've read so far and what the manual says is to use MOLY GREASE on drive shaft/pinion cup splines -and-  MOLY PASTE on the driven hub splines.  Also, the type/brand of GREASE or PASTE in those area's varies widely.

Bel-Ray WP grease comes up alot to use on the "splines" but not always clear which splines.

Sorry for bringing up yet another Spline post but thought it should be clarified what "Splines" are being talked about. I doubt I'm the only one that is a little confused ....

And PLEASE .... lets not get off on a tangent with the vent hole thing (pinion cup) ....  Roll Eyes

So for the record is what's shown below correct ??
Green = Grease  (example: Bel-Ray WP Grease, Green Grease, Guard Dog 525, Valvoline Moly blend)
Red = Paste (example: Guard Dog 570, Bel-Ray Assy Lube) - Honda 60 NOT RECOMMENDED







« Last Edit: December 12, 2010, 03:35:51 AM by Sodbuster » Logged

VRCC # 30938
'99 Std. - Black & Silver - "Spirit Horse"

Dear God, Seriously .... Thanks for creating beer.  You rock !!

Trynt
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So. Cen. Minnesota


« Reply #1 on: December 11, 2010, 09:44:07 AM »

Correct.  cooldude
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six2go #152
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Ft. Wayne, IN


« Reply #2 on: December 11, 2010, 10:44:55 AM »

I agree too.
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Thunderbolt
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Worthington Springs FL.


« Reply #3 on: December 11, 2010, 01:30:02 PM »

might regret it later, but so far all seem to be good.  I took the rear tire off of the Interstate to check everything a couple of months ago since I had 10000 miles on the car tire and had not checked in two years.  Everything looked great.
« Last Edit: December 11, 2010, 01:42:29 PM by Thunderbolt » Logged

gordonv
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Richmond BC


« Reply #4 on: December 11, 2010, 02:08:56 PM »

Thank you for the clear and precious post. I for one was very confused, between one persons splines and anothers. Pictures now make it 100% clear. I figured I would straighten it out when I was doing my own.
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sandy
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Mesa, AZ.


« Reply #5 on: December 11, 2010, 02:14:04 PM »

I'm afraid I disagree with a wee bit of your post. The 60% moly paste is not a very good grease for the wheel splines. Honda's paste is not waterproof and tends to wash away. Rust sets in a grinds away on the splines. The Guard Dog and Bel Ray are better choices for wheel splines. On the two drive shaft splines, I use Valvoline Moly blend. It's a 3% moly mix of synthetic and conventional waterproof grease. Now have 117K on the original shaft and wheel splines with no problems.
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Sodbuster
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« Reply #6 on: December 11, 2010, 04:13:20 PM »

I'm afraid I disagree with a wee bit of your post. The 60% moly paste is not a very good grease for the wheel splines. Honda's paste is not waterproof and tends to wash away. Rust sets in a grinds away on the splines. The Guard Dog and Bel Ray are better choices for wheel splines. On the two drive shaft splines, I use Valvoline Moly blend. It's a 3% moly mix of synthetic and conventional waterproof grease. Now have 117K on the original shaft and wheel splines with no problems.

I would have to agree with that - I put it in there cause the manual calls for it - My experience with the Honda Moly 60 on my GL1100 was not favorable.

I'm assuming when you mention Guard Dog you are referring to 570 for the wheel splines.

Also, I edited my original post .... I had "Grease Grease" instead of "Green Grease".



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VRCC # 30938
'99 Std. - Black & Silver - "Spirit Horse"

Dear God, Seriously .... Thanks for creating beer.  You rock !!

Tundra
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2014 Valkyrie 1800

Seminole, Florida


« Reply #7 on: December 11, 2010, 07:05:34 PM »

I pointed out the "manual" jargon to Honda, years ago. They use Bel-Ray water proof on everything. That's when I started using it, doing it myself ever since. I ride hard, harder than most on my bike, always racing my buddies, no problems. This subject has been beat dead, like oil and tires. I use what I know works from my experience as well as other Valk riders I ride with.
  Maybe it doesn't matter at all Shocked As long as you check at required intervals ??? and lube with whatever makes you happy cooldude  PS...Don't forget the o-rings.
Sodbuster...very good post, great illustration cooldude
« Last Edit: December 12, 2010, 05:30:08 AM by Tundra » Logged

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Robert
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S Florida


« Reply #8 on: December 12, 2010, 05:28:46 AM »

Im with Tundra Belray on everything and no worries cooldude
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Sodbuster
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« Reply #9 on: December 12, 2010, 04:48:16 PM »

Im with Tundra Belray on everything and no worries cooldude


I'm starting to believe you are right .... the more I read about others with high miles on their bikes having virtually no wear on any of the splines even after 100k miles the consensus leans towards the use of waterproof grease .... on ALL the splines .... sometimes mixed in with some Moly Paste for the wheel splines.

But, like notable members have pointed out, the BIG key to long life for the splines is proper assy procedure (the 4 nut thing) and checking/re-lubing at 10k-15k miles.

Also, the verdict is still out on whether or not to lube the flange drive pins .... you're on your own with that one ....







 
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VRCC # 30938
'99 Std. - Black & Silver - "Spirit Horse"

Dear God, Seriously .... Thanks for creating beer.  You rock !!

donaldcc
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Palm Desert, CA


« Reply #10 on: December 12, 2010, 06:58:59 PM »

 
Good post sodbuster.  cooldude I have upcoming rear tire change.   Undecided  I have a couple of oz of honda 60 molypaste and guard dog 570 paste on hand.  I too have seen posts recommending against the honda 60.  Some seem to like it OK for regular maintenance. 

   Do those who do not like it think regular maintenance at 10 - 15K miles with the honda paste is really a problem?  Has anyone personally had any failure with regularly maintained final drive with the honda paste that was not result of failed o-rings or some other problem??
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Don
Sodbuster
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« Reply #11 on: December 12, 2010, 07:27:43 PM »

I confronted a service manager last year at the dealer I usually go to for parts on what's the right stuff to use for the drive splines. He replied "The manual says to use Honda Moly 60". But when I asked him if that's what's used in the shop he kinda hesitated and said "Well, no we use Bel-Ray Assy Lube".  So, take that for what it's worth.

I'm no expert on the subject by any means but I'm guessing that using ONLY Moly Paste on the wheel splines doesn't fair well with riding in the rain or excessive pressure washings ??

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VRCC # 30938
'99 Std. - Black & Silver - "Spirit Horse"

Dear God, Seriously .... Thanks for creating beer.  You rock !!

Valkpilot
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What does the data say?

Corinth, Texas


« Reply #12 on: December 12, 2010, 07:55:14 PM »

I confronted a service manager last year at the dealer I usually go to for parts on what's the right stuff to use for the drive splines. He replied "The manual says to use Honda Moly 60". But when I asked him if that's what's used in the shop he kinda hesitated and said "Well, no we use Bel-Ray Assy Lube".  So, take that for what it's worth.

I'm no expert on the subject by any means but I'm guessing that using ONLY Moly Paste on the wheel splines doesn't fair well with riding in the rain or excessive pressure washings ??



The manual calls for 40% minimum moly content paste for the hub gear and splines.

Bel-Ray Assembly Lube is 40% moly paste.   Honda 60 is 60% moly paste.  I believe both of these are moly mixed with oil and include clay as a thickener.  Guard Dog 570 is 73% moly in a grease.  I'd use any of the three in the hub (the red zones.)

If you service the final drive every 10,000 miles or at every wheel change, whichever comes first, and your o-rings are good, and you avoid pressure spraying your rear drive, the paste should not be dry at service time.

The manual calls for 3% minimum moly content grease for the pinion cup, drive shaft, u-joint, and output shaft. (a light coating in the green zones.)  Many (including me) just use a high-pressure waterproof grease for this such as Bel-Ray Marine grease.  I believe the Bel-Ray is NOT compatible, and should not be mixed with moly containing clay additives.

The moly content coats the surfaces of the metal parts and greatly reduces the coefficient of friction on parts that mesh or slide.  (It makes them slicker.)

Why the difference in specified lubes (40% moly paste vs 3% moly grease?)  I believe it is due to the difference in forces experienced by the components in question.
« Last Edit: December 12, 2010, 08:30:41 PM by Valkpilot » Logged

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RP#62
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« Reply #13 on: December 12, 2010, 08:52:24 PM »


Also, the verdict is still out on whether or not to lube the flange drive pins .... you're on your own with that one ....

 

Not to me.  I tried it once to remedy a squeak and what it did is allowed the shoulder on the pins to lap corresponding grooves in the bushing bores and I played hell getting the flange out of the wheel hub on the next removal. 
-RP
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SPOFF
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Derry, NH


« Reply #14 on: December 14, 2010, 10:29:56 AM »

Anyone make a belt drive conversion for the Valk?   Roll Eyes  For a "maintenance free" shaft drive, disassembling the whole ass-end of the Valkyrie at least once a year is a major pain in the ass. If there's any chance I might be caught in rain, I always take my chain-driven dirt bike. Problem solved. A top-quality chain-sprocket set is $200 and the OEM set so far outlasted the first set of splines in my Valkyrie.
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