Gas Mileage: 1998 Standard

[us385south]

New Valk owner here...

I bought the bike about a month ago.  It had been sitting for about two years... the PO died.

It was running at ownership... fresh oil and filter... on the way home from the purchase added about 1/2 can of Seafoam and ran for about 100 miles, was idling much better by the time I got home...

New gas the next day... high test.  Ran that out with "off and on" short trips...

Third tank of high test added another 1/2 can of Seafoam... ran that out in 25 to 50 mile runs over about two weeks.

I am now on my fourth tank and to me the mileage seems a bit low... 26.8.

It also seems to me that it is excessively "gassy" smelling on a cold start.  Starts fine... but it smells REALLY foul... as a current 1500 Goldwing owner, from my point of view this is not blueish oil smoking from the cylinder lean...

Once it warms up and I run it a bit it's fine... except for the gas mileage...

My motorcycle shop dude says I need to replace the jets... says the crappy fuel we have these days enlarges the hole.. and that makes the bike run poorly and use lots of gas...

Of course this is a fairly expensive piece of work... for which i am sure he is hungry.

Thoughts...

Suggestions...

Advice...

[Hoser]

It would seem to me that is low.  However I would contact some of the members on the Texas Board, there are a lot of them, and many are good mechanics, and they have frequent wrench parties at various locations.  It is like this in many states, but you are in Texas.  I'm sure many will make contact when they see your post on this board also.  Hope this helps.  Hoser 

[gordonv]

Some people here don't like Seafoam. Others love it.

Another type that some people say works better and is a lot cheaper is Berrymans B-12. Use it the same way. Half in a tank of gas, run the engine so its in the carbs, then let sit, basically what you've been already doing. I bought it, but haven't used it yet, my bike is now gone, accident.

I don't know if this is the same problem that another posted about, but they removed the tank (fuel line), and flushed out the carbs using the carb cleaner and opening a port on the carb, re-collecting the cleaner, and running it through the carb, till they flushed clean. Time consuming, but makes sense, using at full strength. Went from a rough running bike to one purring (or growling).

I don't know where your skill level is, but you did mention maybe needing the mechanic for the job, but feel this is something you should be able to do yourself. But like already posted, try to hit others up for a Mechanic Party in your area.

[John U.]

I guess you don't know if the jets are OEM or may have been changed to larger sizes. Many of us change the slow jets to 38s from the stock 35. This requires a change to the pilot screws. Most find that 1 3/4 out from lightly seated is good with 38s, as compared to 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 with the stock slow jets.
If the slow jets were replaced with 38s and no change was made to the pilot screws the bike will be rich at idle.
Also check that the choke is off.
The main jets may also have been changed which will have a greater affect on mileage.
I agree that replacing the slow jets is something you can tackle yourself. Sudco or Chaparell have the jets.
Check that the clamps are tight on the rubber boots that connect the chrome intake runners to the carbs. Check and or replace the vacume hoses. Vacume leaks can raise hell with efficient operation and will have an effect on mileage.

[John U.]

I left out checking the air filter, you will need to remove the tank to replace it. For that reason it is sometimes let go too long.
Also, if you want to get a bit more adventuresome, check the shoptailk article on the ECT mod. You will gain some go and about 3 to 4 miles per gallon if you can control your right wrist.

[Robert]

Unless the po was using acid then gas wont eat out a jet but it will clog it really well especially with the ethanol. I have a second stage jet kit with a timing wheel and get 31 to 41 mpg all the time. Take off the carbs clean them and do it right and you will have many miles of pleasurable driving. Another thought there is a thing called hydrolock that happens to these bikes. If indeed your floats are giving you problems as witnessed low mileage you are a prime candidate for this to happen. Read previous posts about this. It it pretty expensive to repair and is easily preventable.

[ricoman]

Have had 2 98's, std. & tourer. Have never gotten above 30mpg on either-usually 25-27.
I really don't think it unusual as I have talked with several Valk ridres with the same experience.
I am intrigued by the comment by your "motorcycle shop dude" that crappy gas has enlarged the holes in the jets. I have an extremely hard time grasping the truth in that statement- crappy gas is known to clog jets. Think about it. I would suggest another shop. Listen to what you're being told here on the forum-it'll get you farther than the words of wisdom from the shop dude.

[Challenger]

I also have two Valks and have never seen less than 30 on either one. But I am almost always two-up and under 80 MPH. my Std will average 32 to 35 and the I/S will average 35 to 38. YMMV. Anyway, don't forget to pull the vac line at #6 carb and check for fuel leakage from the petcock diaphragm. I've seen these leak, run rich at idle and drop mileage a bit. 

[valkmc]

Have had 2 98's, std. & tourer. Have never gotten above 30mpg on either-usually 25-27.
I really don't think it unusual as I have talked with several Valk ridres with the same experience.
I am intrigued by the comment by your "motorcycle shop dude" that crappy gas has enlarged the holes in the jets. I have an extremely hard time grasping the truth in that statement- crappy gas is known to clog jets. Think about it. I would suggest another shop. Listen to what you're being told here on the forum-it'll get you farther than the words of wisdom from the shop dude.

I have a 98 std, bought new in July of 98. I get around 36 mpg. I have gotten as low as 28 while in Sturgis one year and 42 riding on the BRP. If I got 25 mpg I would not be happy and I would trying to figure out why. Mine is stock, has been changed except the rear turn signals and it is darkside. It has 72k on it now.

[Momz]

I also have 98 standard that consistantly gets 45+ MPG. As a matter of fact I am hoping to have a "Gas Mileage Challenge Tour" during the next INZANE, Slowpokes will have to get to the back of the pack and try to keep the leaders in sight.

Check everything that the above posters have refered to. Also think about trying the "simple ECT Mod" to get a better torque curve.

[us385south]

Rational and thought provoking words... all.

Challenger... I have to believe this is my first line of attack... the petcock.  I have noticed since the Valk has been in the shed that the garage is obtusely "gassy" smelling in the mornings and in the afternoons when I come in from work.  It is so bad that I have taken to looking for pooling on the floor and the engine block... Can you tell me more about troubleshooting this cause.  Number six carb you say... that's the master carb used for synchronizing all the others right?  Middle on the right bank, correct?

John U...
I have already had the air filter off.  I had a pretty crappy (and dirty) K&N filter.  I am not fond of washable filters... and I tapped a good deal of 'gook" out of this one before I re-installed it.  Don't panic... I just re-installed it for the time being... a new OEM is on order.  I hope that fixes the problem... I am not excited about the prospect of attacking those carbs...

All responders: Yes, I agree that the "shop guy's" motives may be less than ethical... hence my post here.  I have found the GoldwingFacts forum VERY helpful in reconditioning and maintaining my gold wing... I would expect nothing less here.

[Challenger]

Sorry I did not get back to you sooner, #6 carb is the left rear as sitting on the seat, It has a vac line that goes directly to the petcock. I pull the line off the carb with a pair of needle nose pliars. then it is up to you how to proceed, You can suck on the line to check for fuel or use a hand pump.   

[us385south]

Thanks for responding... I'll be looking at the diaphragm before the weekend gets here.  I have the new Air Filter so I'll probably pull the gas tank and swap that out too... although I do not understand how that would be causing the gassy smell in the garage.

None the less I am eliminating likely causes... thanks again...

[Blackduck]

Another quick check, remove the top from one of the carbs and check the needle, most aftermarket needles have grooves and a E clip on them. Standard needles have no adjustment built into them.
If after market others here know the best settings.
Cheers Steve.

[Chiefy]

FWIW, when i got my 98 standard it was running real rough, but strong too.  I was getting around 26~28 mpg.  The dealer cleaned the carbs and put in new slow jets.  Now I get around 34 mpg on high test, and 30, or slightly less on mid grade.  Before he serviced it, it barely ran on mid grade.

[greggh]

Rational and thought provoking words... all.

Challenger... I have to believe this is my first line of attack... the petcock.  I have noticed since the Valk has been in the shed that the garage is obtusely "gassy" smelling in the mornings and in the afternoons when I come in from work.  It is so bad that I have taken to looking for pooling on the floor and the engine block... Can you tell me more about troubleshooting this cause.  Number six carb you say... that's the master carb used for synchronizing all the others right?  Middle on the right bank, correct?

John U...
I have already had the air filter off.  I had a pretty crappy (and dirty) K&N filter.  I am not fond of washable filters... and I tapped a good deal of 'gook" out of this one before I re-installed it.  Don't panic... I just re-installed it for the time being... a new OEM is on order.  I hope that fixes the problem... I am not excited about the prospect of attacking those carbs...

All responders: Yes, I agree that the "shop guy's" motives may be less than ethical... hence my post here.  I have found the GoldwingFacts forum VERY helpful in reconditioning and maintaining my gold wing... I would expect nothing less here.

If you had a K&N filter on and are replacing with the OEM check to make sure that the rubber seal is still there.  Some toss it when installing the K&N filter. If you return to stock make certain all stock air filter parts are in place.

[us385south]

greggh,

Great words... order placed for new upper and lower seals!  For 2.85 ea. I'd rather have them on hand when I pull that gas tank.  Even if they are there, I can always justify it in my mind by arguing that the old ones are probably 12 years old anyway.... right?  And therefore may have been unduly compressed by the K&N filter... right?  Or any of a variety of other arguments.   I'm just the kinda guy who likes to replace things like this as I go...

Thanks for the heads-up!

Have the timing cover off now... I caught the belts JUST in time... they were pretty much toast... that makes me feel all warm and fuzzy inside!