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big bear craig
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« on: December 11, 2010, 03:01:38 PM » |
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I have a 99 tourer with 57,000 miles. On my last ride I noticed a clunking noise coming from the driveline. After disassembly, both rear wheel bearings appear good although I will replace them, the gears inside the pumpking look good and had plenty of grease, the pinion cup splines look good with plenty of grease, the u-joint is clean and there is no binding, but of course I cannot see the needle bearings. I do find some play or slop when I hold both yokes and work them against each other. The play seems to be coming from the front yoike where the u-joint caps actually rotate inside of the yoke instead of rotating on the u-joint via the needle bearings. I would assume the u-joint is worn and needs replacing. How much play is normal, and shouldn't the cups that are pressed into the yoke be a tight fit? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks
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Trynt
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« Reply #1 on: December 11, 2010, 04:23:07 PM » |
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I have a 99 tourer with 57,000 miles. On my last ride I noticed a clunking noise coming from the driveline. After disassembly, both rear wheel bearings appear good although I will replace them, the gears inside the pumpking look good and had plenty of grease, the pinion cup splines look good with plenty of grease, the u-joint is clean and there is no binding, but of course I cannot see the needle bearings. I do find some play or slop when I hold both yokes and work them against each other. The play seems to be coming from the front yoike where the u-joint caps actually rotate inside of the yoke instead of rotating on the u-joint via the needle bearings. I would assume the u-joint is worn and needs replacing. How much play is normal, and shouldn't the cups that are pressed into the yoke be a tight fit? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks
If I understand what your are saying, there should be no play what so ever. |
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Thunderbolt
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« Reply #2 on: December 11, 2010, 04:28:22 PM » |
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but that could be the clunking. If you still have the wheel off, check for looseness or play in the wheel dampers.
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #3 on: December 11, 2010, 04:49:48 PM » |
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Yes, there should be no play.
And you should be aware, Mother Honda has been out of Valk U-joints now for a couple months. They are in the process of getting a new supplier/mfr. It may be some months before we see them again.
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big bear craig
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« Reply #4 on: December 11, 2010, 07:48:22 PM » |
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I guess I will have to secure a used one. I was hopping it was the wheel bearings just because of the availability of parts.
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GOOSE
Member
Posts: 704
D.S. #: 1643
Southwest Virginia
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« Reply #5 on: December 11, 2010, 07:56:44 PM » |
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Robert
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« Reply #6 on: December 12, 2010, 05:26:39 AM » |
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I had the same thing and went with Gary dampers and couldn't believe the difference. The dampers are only rubber and you cant stress them enough by hand to see the deflection. Thats my idea replace the dampers and I think you'll have no more slop.
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“Some people see things that are and ask, Why? Some people dream of things that never were and ask, Why not? Some people have to go to work and don’t have time for all that.”
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #7 on: December 12, 2010, 07:42:47 AM » |
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Feeling play between the two u-joint yoke's
Bearing cups are able to rotate within the yoke.
That u-joint is shot!
***
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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gordonv
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Posts: 5763
VRCC # 31419
Richmond BC
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« Reply #8 on: December 12, 2010, 12:37:50 PM » |
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Feeling play between the two u-joint yoke's
Bearing cups are able to rotate within the yoke.
That u-joint is shot!
That is why you have the clunking in the rear. I'd also agree, Any play, Throw it away. The last I wrote to Gary, he had only one set of dampners left, and that was over 2 months ago, and wasn't planning to make any more. That might have changed. |
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« Last Edit: December 12, 2010, 12:53:28 PM by gordonv »
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1999 Black with custom paint IS   |
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Valkpilot
Member
Posts: 2151
What does the data say?
Corinth, Texas
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« Reply #9 on: December 12, 2010, 06:37:30 PM » |
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Feeling play between the two u-joint yoke's
Bearing cups are able to rotate within the yoke.
That u-joint is shot!
***
+2 |
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VRCC #19757 IBA #44686 1998 Black Standard 2007 Goldwing   |
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Red Diamond
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« Reply #10 on: December 13, 2010, 09:37:43 AM » |
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Pinwall has a couple or did have. If things get really pushy, I have a couple of GW's.
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 If you are riding and it is a must that you keep your eyes on the road, you are riding too fast. |
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big bear craig
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« Reply #11 on: December 13, 2010, 07:42:24 PM » |
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Thanks everyone for your help. I was able to secure another u-joint. I was pretty sure the old u-joint was shot, but I guess I was looking for a second opinion. This forum is invaluable!
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wildthang1949
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« Reply #12 on: December 13, 2010, 08:16:08 PM » |
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When you get her back together, let us know if the clunking stops.......thanks
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #13 on: December 14, 2010, 08:27:29 AM » |
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Pinwall has a couple or did have. If things get really pushy, I have a couple of GW's.
Are those new or used? Thanks *** |
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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Gunslinger
Member
Posts: 404
Brian Huntzinger, EMT-P
Wamego, KS
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« Reply #14 on: December 15, 2010, 06:16:25 AM » |
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Pinwall has a couple or did have. If things get really pushy, I have a couple of GW's.
Are those new or used? Thanks *** everything pinwall sells is used. |
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VRCC# 26468 VRCCDS# 0228  "Some learn by listening, Others learn by watching... The rest of us have to pee on the electric fence ourselves" |
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #15 on: December 15, 2010, 07:27:29 AM » |
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I understand that!
Pinwall = used parts
I was referring to the two Goldwing u-joints he has in hand!
***
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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Red Diamond
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« Reply #16 on: December 15, 2010, 02:36:50 PM » |
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The two I have are used, not gotten from Pinwall, but in very good condition.
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If you are riding and it is a must that you keep your eyes on the road, you are riding too fast. |
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big bear craig
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« Reply #17 on: December 26, 2010, 07:29:59 PM » |
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I got her back together a couple of days ago but due to snow and ice I couldn't ride her. I did take the bike out for a short ride today and the noise seems to be gone.
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art
Member
Posts: 2737
Grants Pass,Or
Grants Pass,Or
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« Reply #18 on: December 26, 2010, 08:27:57 PM » |
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Knowing what I know now about the shortage of u-joints
i would not throw away the joint.I am a machinist an it takes a machinist to mace these parts an it will take a machinist to rebuild one.It may be rebuildable with the proper tools an possibly some automobile bearings made to fit.I know if I have problems getting a u-joint I would try an do my own rebuild.I did it with a bent drive shaft from my valk an also did it to a camshaft for a 57 oldsmobile that was to long.
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98valk
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« Reply #19 on: December 27, 2010, 05:23:51 AM » |
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Knowing what I know now about the shortage of u-joints
i would not throw away the joint.I am a machinist an it takes a machinist to mace these parts an it will take a machinist to rebuild one.It may be rebuildable with the proper tools an possibly some automobile bearings made to fit.I know if I have problems getting a u-joint I would try an do my own rebuild.I did it with a bent drive shaft from my valk an also did it to a camshaft for a 57 oldsmobile that was to long.
there is a thread on rebuilding them from a couple of months ago. |
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
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Gunslinger
Member
Posts: 404
Brian Huntzinger, EMT-P
Wamego, KS
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« Reply #20 on: December 27, 2010, 07:07:19 AM » |
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Knowing what I know now about the shortage of u-joints
i would not throw away the joint.I am a machinist an it takes a machinist to mace these parts an it will take a machinist to rebuild one.It may be rebuildable with the proper tools an possibly some automobile bearings made to fit.I know if I have problems getting a u-joint I would try an do my own rebuild.I did it with a bent drive shaft from my valk an also did it to a camshaft for a 57 oldsmobile that was to long.
there is a thread on rebuilding them from a couple of months ago. I have been repeatedly flamed for suggesting that the U-Joint should be rebuildable provided that the yolks are in good shape. We shall soon see as my poor IS is parked for a suspicious drive-line noise and my backup U-Joint was donated this summer. |
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VRCC# 26468 VRCCDS# 0228 "Some learn by listening, Others learn by watching... The rest of us have to pee on the electric fence ourselves" |
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big bear craig
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« Reply #21 on: December 27, 2010, 07:56:42 AM » |
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I'm keeping my old parts and will look into getting them rebuilt, but I doubt I will keep the bike long enough to have to replace the joint again unless I get a premature failure.
I am really starting to question the reason to have a driveshaft instead of just a belt drive as some other bikes do. The driveshaft seems to add a lot of weight, complexity, and less efficiency in the transferring of power to the rear wheel. As far as maintenance goes, I don't really see the advantage there either. I do believe it's better than a chain, but again not so sure about the belt vs. shaft. I have owned numerous chain driven bikes, and never really had a problem, but they do require periodic lubing and cleaning. Since I have never owned a belt drive I am not aware of it's pitfalls. I guess the older I get the simpler I like things.
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