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Mase
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« on: December 15, 2010, 03:42:08 PM » |
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I was able to get the cap screws out but the bolts are stuck (seized) in good and tight. I had soaked them with PBBlaster and heat from a MAPP gas torch. Still no movement. I have not used Kroil yet.
I need some tips how to get these puppies out.
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hubcapsc
Member
Posts: 16788
upstate
South Carolina
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« Reply #1 on: December 15, 2010, 05:05:27 PM » |
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I was able to get the cap screws out but the bolts are stuck (seized) in good and tight. I had soaked them with PBBlaster and heat from a MAPP gas torch. Still no movement. I have not used Kroil yet.
I need some tips how to get these puppies out.
Is the caliper off? I usually lay it down and stand on it so it can't move and so that I can put a lot of pressure on the ratchet (I use allen head sockets...) and so far I've always gotten them out... -Mike |
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John U.
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« Reply #2 on: December 15, 2010, 05:19:05 PM » |
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Mase, I read some time ago about a test that compared the commercial formulation pentrating oils with some home made blends.It found that the best penetrating oil is a combination of transmission fluid and acetone.
I guess you'd need to keep a cap on it since acetone will evaporate easily. I haven't tried it so I'm just passing on the info.
For what it's worth. Let us know if you try it
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donaldcc
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« Reply #3 on: December 15, 2010, 05:52:22 PM » |
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I recently had same problem with one of the pinch bolts trying to get my front tire off. Allen head socket is a good idea. On mine I got 3 out of 4 out with a lot of force and stripped the other.   Took it in to small shop I use and they fixed me up. I asked what they did and the guy that worked on it said he thought they would have to drill it out, but he just took a little larger allen wrench, pounded the $h!t out of it and was able to twist it out with a lot of force. Put in a post when you solve it, curious how it works out. |
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Don
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #4 on: December 15, 2010, 06:47:40 PM » |
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If the caliper is already removed....put it back on, you can get more torque on it if you break that pin loose before removing the caliper.
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wild6
Member
Posts: 251
(Old enough to know better)
Vernon, NJ
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« Reply #5 on: December 15, 2010, 10:00:43 PM » |
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Once it's out, use anti-seize before re-installing (as you should on practically everything).
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  “Meddle not in the affairs of the Dragon, for you are crunchy and taste good with ketchup.” |
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Brad
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« Reply #6 on: December 15, 2010, 10:09:22 PM » |
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Proper size allen socket, tapped firmly into place and a quality impact driver.  |
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hubcapsc
Member
Posts: 16788
upstate
South Carolina
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« Reply #7 on: December 16, 2010, 06:09:53 AM » |
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Bolt #15 is the one that is stuck.
I'm not saying this will do it, just that I've gotten some out that were really stuck this way... You can mash down real hard, and something's going to give... replacement calipers can be had at Pinwall for $30... black ones for Interstate, not black for the others (rear is different, don't know about front)... Brad's idea about the impact driver sounds good if you need it...  Don't listen to Jeff he keeps his motorcycle in the livingroom  -Mike |
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« Last Edit: December 16, 2010, 06:14:22 AM by hubcapsc »
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Spirited-6
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« Reply #8 on: December 16, 2010, 08:09:47 AM » |
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Proper size allen socket, tapped firmly into place and a quality impact driver. Plus me on this . I bought one back when I had a 305 Super Hawk. |
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Spirited-6
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #9 on: December 16, 2010, 08:27:31 AM » |
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There's not much keeping that bolt from coming out actually!
Since the cap is off that would mean the threads to which the bolt will move are already Ok.
There's not much torque on that bolt since it is mainly being used as a pin to hold the end of the pads.
If you have the caliper off you can whack the rear end of the bolt (pin) to help loosen it.
You can also use a vise grip on the shaft to help turn it! Might have to replace it however!
Proper fitting tools are absolutely required here. Failure in this respect will result in a greater problem.
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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hubcapsc
Member
Posts: 16788
upstate
South Carolina
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« Reply #10 on: December 16, 2010, 10:06:49 AM » |
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I am using a 4.5mm allen wrench. Is that the correct size? I have a set of metric 3/8" socket allen head but they are 3,4,5,6,8 mm.
I just checked... the one I'm using in the picture has 5 stamped on it... -Mike |
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Dag
Member
Posts: 1779
I have a love affair with a bumblebee
Country Rep. Norway
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« Reply #11 on: December 16, 2010, 05:58:49 PM » |
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The question is not what you look at...but what you see...
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donaldcc
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« Reply #12 on: December 16, 2010, 08:36:52 PM » |
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Dag that is awesome! Thanks for the link. I wonder if a 10x1xwhatever bolt with a six point head would fit? That way one could cut the bolt down and could use anti seize and a pressure washer? Did I misunderstand your thread? It seems you were having problem getting out "Bolt # 15" (PIN, HANGER 45215-ML7-922), not #13 mentioned in Dag's post.(INPLUG, PIN 45203-MG3-016) Still hoping you will be able to get it out. " Sorry I should have posted a schematic.
Bolt #15 is the one that is stuck."  Different numbers in the different schematics. |
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« Last Edit: December 16, 2010, 09:50:33 PM by donaldcc »
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Don
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John U.
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« Reply #13 on: December 17, 2010, 09:15:02 PM » |
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It's corroded in due to dissimilar metal reaction. Having allowed some time and a bit of tapping for the penetrating oil to work, you might try a little heat on the aluminum. It shouldn't take much to get some expansion. I have used a propane torch even in close to rubber and wires by making an aluminum foil shield. The tough oven grade foil works best.
It really shouldn't need much heat, it's aluminum so it can warp (or boil brake fluid) with too much heat.
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