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Author Topic: Clutch Question  (Read 1716 times)
donaldcc
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Posts: 2956


Palm Desert, CA


« on: December 20, 2010, 09:28:30 AM »

  '97 Tourer with 19K miles.  Got it in May with 11K.  Clutch and brake fluid looked pretty dark so I changed all.  After bleeding clutch 1st time I had no clutch function and figured air in lines so I repeated bleeding and after it seemed to work fine.

   Now with about 7K on the new fluids clutch continues to function without problems.  No slipping with hard acceleration and seems fine when I am stopped at neutral.  No problems shifting between gears.  Friction point where it engages and disengages is about 1/3 of way to completely open lever.

   Last week I had bike on lift with tank off to check petcock.  When all was reinstalled I started bike on lift in neutral.  When throttle was opened over 1000 rpm the back tire would begin to slowly rotate.  If I put my shoe on tire it stopped with no problem.  It did not seem to happen at idle, but if I opened throttle - - slow tire rotation that speeded up some with more throttle.  Again easily stopped with light pressure from shoe.

   Fluid level in reservoir is fine and there is no apparent loss of fluid since changing 7K mi ago.  Changed engine oil and filter about 1500 mi back with high quality synthetic and level seems fine.

   So my question - Is this a problem??   Undecided

Should I worry that I have air in hydraulic system?

Should I rebleed and if so I guess I should use new DOT 4?

Or, should I just forget about it and go out and have fun riding?
« Last Edit: December 21, 2010, 09:38:10 AM by donaldcc » Logged

Don
Jeff K
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Posts: 3071


« Reply #1 on: December 20, 2010, 09:33:12 AM »

It's not a problem. It's a wet clutch, you get some friction in the clutch with the oil between the plates. This is normal.
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R J
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Posts: 13380


DS-0009 ...... # 173

Des Moines, IA


« Reply #2 on: December 20, 2010, 09:43:33 AM »

No problem there good buddy.

As the engine is turning, it is splashing the oil around in the transmission.  This will make the rear wheel turn at higher rpm's without it being in gear.   This is basically how an automatic tranny works, spinning propellers.

Jack your car/truck up on one rear wheel, put it in neutral, give it some rpm's and the rear wheel will turn on it like on the bike.

Now get it off the jack and go for a ride.
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44 Harley ServiCar
 



 

98valk
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Posts: 13511


South Jersey


« Reply #3 on: December 20, 2010, 10:35:34 AM »

No problem there good buddy.

As the engine is turning, it is splashing the oil around in the transmission. 


the trans gears are lubricated by a second oil pump.
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
donaldcc
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Posts: 2956


Palm Desert, CA


« Reply #4 on: December 20, 2010, 11:54:26 AM »


     cooldude thanks guys!  As has been said before this board is great for people like me without a lot of experience working on Valk.  Before I got bike I got a shop manual to page through and started at the last page of tech board and tried to work backwards for a few months learning about the bike. 

    it has made me appreciate this machine much more and I really like being able to know that I can do things to it myself and turn to this board for answers and advice.  coolsmiley Smiley
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Don
Ricky-D
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Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #5 on: December 20, 2010, 01:02:27 PM »

Beware Don!

Answers are not always based in fact or reality, and

Advice is usually "opinion" from the same gene pool!

Merry Christmas

***
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
donaldcc
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Posts: 2956


Palm Desert, CA


« Reply #6 on: December 20, 2010, 02:12:13 PM »

Advice is usually "opinion" from the same gene pool!

 laugh  laugh Thanks for the ADVICE Ricky-D.  I take ALL advice in my life with a "grain of salt" but am happy to seek out opinion of others with more experience than myself before making decisions.

Happy Holidays to you as well and to the rest of the "gene pool"
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Don
John Schmidt
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Posts: 15237


a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #7 on: December 20, 2010, 08:50:17 PM »

Don, if you went with synthetic fluid you may be developing a problem. Before going to full syn brake fluid, the system usually needs a good flush and scrubbing. Reason....synthetic and non-syn don't mix and there is always some residue left over from the non-syn. There really is no need to use synthetic on these bikes, I've used nothing but DOT 4 with no problems, fade, etc.

And FWIW, that comes from experience, not opinion.  Wink
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donaldcc
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Posts: 2956


Palm Desert, CA


« Reply #8 on: December 21, 2010, 08:10:47 AM »


  John,  i used regular OEM DOT 4 for brake and clutch.  Mobil 1 - full synthetic 20w-50  for oil change only, so shouldn't be a problem.
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Don
98valk
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Posts: 13511


South Jersey


« Reply #9 on: December 21, 2010, 08:53:39 AM »

....synthetic and non-syn don't mix and there is always some residue left over from the non-syn. There really is no need to use synthetic on these bikes, I've used nothing but DOT 4 with no problems, fade, etc.

And FWIW, that comes from experience, not opinion.  Wink


they are compatiable. Dot 3/4 with Dot 5 are not.

syn brake fluid increases brake feel and doesn't allow water to accumalate as fast allowing longer interval btwn changes. another plus is the higher boiling temp of synths, which helps with moisture issues.

some good info, http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/bf3.aspx
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
John Schmidt
Member
*****
Posts: 15237


a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #10 on: December 21, 2010, 11:14:29 AM »


  John,  i used regular OEM DOT 4 for brake and clutch.  Mobil 1 - full synthetic 20w-50  for oil change only, so shouldn't be a problem.
Don....I went back and read your original post and DUH!!! You're right, it was synthetic oil you were referring to. Not sure why I saw it as syn hydraulic fluid. Maybe too much eggnog!  Wink  The next post is right though, don't mix the DOT 3/4 with 5.
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Chillerman
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Posts: 689


Golden, CO


« Reply #11 on: December 21, 2010, 04:07:55 PM »

Beware Don!

Answers are not always based in fact or reality, and

Advice is usually "opinion" from the same gene pool!

Merry Christmas

***

So very true Ricky, so very true!   2funny 2funny 2funny 2funny 2funny  Oh, the irony is overwhelming!!!!
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The problem with Socialists is they eventually run out of other people's money to spend!

Some people are too stupid to realize how ignorant they are.
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