Runs poorly 1K-2K RPM's

[Red Diamond]

     
2K Tourer, running crappy between 1k-2k rpm's, going to change the slow jets. Is it general concensus to change the slow jets only or should the others be changed also? Bike had 18k when purchased, now 22k approx. year later. Removed float chamber bowl, wasn't as dirty as I had anticipated even though bike only average about 1800 miles per year from previous owner.

[Pete]

Clean or replace slow jets and clean pilot screws and chamber, and passages they use.

[9Ball]

     
2K Tourer, running crappy between 1k-2k rpm's, going to change the slow jets. Is it general concensus to change the slow jets only or should the others be changed also? Bike had 18k when purchased, now 22k approx. year later. Removed float chamber bowl, wasn't as dirty as I had anticipated even though bike only average about 1800 miles per year from previous owner.

Definitely recommend replacing the slow jets instead of cleaning them.  If you don't get them spotless, or score them while cleaning, then you will be tearing things apart again.  It was worth the $35 to replace with new (at least to me). I've known several that attempted cleaning, only to find they still had the clogging problem upon completion, then they had to tear everything apart again and replace the slow jets anyway.  I replaced the mains too, but probably not necessary except that they were 10 year old brass (that was my logic...like it or not).

Like the previous poster said, make sure to remove pilots and clean the passages thoroughly.  Good opportunity to replace the pilot o-rings with the viton ones from redeyetech on ebay.  Set your pilots on the bench before installing the carb bank back on the bike.  New intake runner o-rings should be replaced if they are original to the bike.

I replaced fuel lines, carb drain tubing which was hard and cracking, gas tank vent tubing, dragon drool tubing, and PAIR valve tubing, as well as plugs for 1,2, and 5 while I was in there.  Figure I'm good for another 10 years.

Good luck...the difference is amazing.

[rogerthat]

I also recommend cleaning the tank out while you have it off.  I pulled the petcock and replaced it with a Pingel and cleaned the tank with a rust remover.

[Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008]

You might also check all the clamps on the airbox and carbs and intake running as they get loose and cause problems at idle and low speed.

[John U.]

The previous posts pretty well cover the issue, but I'd like to add to the post about cleaning the tank.
Rust can and will find it's way past the screen, which can clog slow jets and cause leakage at the float valves, which can contribute to the dreaded and expensive hydrolock.
If you have a rusty tank (a flashlight and inspection mirror will be needed) you should clean it for sure, you can also seal it with an epoxy tank sealer if it's bad. Stay away from Kreeme, it has caused big problems by coming loose and clogging up everything.

You should also consider a fuel filter, Pingle and Golan make good ones. I've used Golans on two Valks for several years, no problems with fuel starvation.

[Pete]

One can successfully clean the slow jets, as with everything else in the carbs "spotlessly clean" has meaning. Clean or replace whichever works best for you.

As for using Cream or any tank sealer, it is a challenge to do a excellent job, and with the sealers nothing less than excellent works. Again "spotlessly clean" has real meaning, if not the sealer does not attach correctly. 100% coverage also is vitally important, failure to get 100 percent coverage means the sealer will fail. Sealing a tank correctly is not an easy job for anyone, amateur or professional.

Unless the tank very badly rusted, clean it and just keep it full of fuel to retard future rust.

[Chiefy]

You might also check all the clamps on the airbox and carbs and intake running as they get loose and cause problems at idle and low speed.

Agree.  And does your bike hesitate or stumble off the line?  If not, it might not be the jets. 

[Ricky-D]

Being the second owner (at least) it would be a good thing to first ascertain exactly what you have in the carburetors.

Talking about changes first off makes me think the aim is experimentation rather than actually trying to correct a problem.

You haven't had enough time to fully realize how wonderful a motorcycle you really have in your grasp.

Now already you want to start making modifications.

You are going to start down a path that will cause you in the future to wish that you had never gone.

Getting that bike running correctly is easy when it remains stock. 

Work towards that end first. Especially since it's not ridden that much.

***

[Red Diamond]

Thanks for all the replies. I have inspected #2, 4 and 6 float chambers. Didn't see anything that bad looking. Pulled the slow jets and flashlighted them, seemed clear, no clogging. I will replace all intake manifold, float chamber and pilot valve o-rings and vacuum hoses. I tend to like things to remain stock, and will not change anything to aftermarket or modify anything. I have also ordered a new petcock cover set and in tank screen.

[Roadog]

  Change out the intake tube 'O' rings.  THAT WILL make it run 'crappy'.  A lean condition will do that.  You didn't define 'crappy'.   That will make it surge and just run awful under  small throttle openings.  Once open past 1/4 throttle it will run good. 

[Red Diamond]

  Change out the intake tube 'O' rings.  THAT WILL make it run 'crappy'.  A lean condition will do that.  You didn't define 'crappy'.   That will make it surge and just run awful under  small throttle openings.  Once open past 1/4 throttle it will run good. 

Roadog, it sputters between a thousand or so rpm's  and 2k rpm's. In 1st or second gear, when you get past those rpm's, you have to be careful, it will jump out from under you, especially if you are accelarating out of an intersection turn.

[Roadog]

RED Diamond,..I believe you have an 'O' ring issue.  VERY easy fix, 5-10 minutes a side.  Mine was running like that and that took care of it.  Also While the intake tubes were off I turned the fuel screws out to 2 1/2 turns from LIGHTLY seated.  They were all over the place from the factory.  4 were 1 3/4 turns one was 1 1/2 and the other 2 1/8.  I changed out the 'O' Rings adjusted the screws to 2 1/2 turns and did a good sync job with my Morgan carb tune, it has NEVER run so good..and I bought it new.  Hardly need the choke anymore.  I know alot say 2-2 1/4 turns out but my '98 Tourer likes it ALOT.

[Red Diamond]

Thanks Roadog, Advice well taken.

[John U.]

Check the tightness of the band clamps that hold the rubber intake tube connections to the carbs. They seem to loosen easily and will cause the same vacume leaks that the intake O-rings can cause. The next time I have trouble with them I'm going to try some locktite.