After the bike is warmed up when accelerating it starts backfiring/popping and dies. Will then start in neutral and idle perfect, can rev up rpms and does not miss a beat. As soon as I put it in any gear it dies immediately. Will not start in gear with clutch pulled in, Neutral OK, almost acts like when the kick stand is down. Stand light is not on, thought at first maybe had a problem with the stand switch. So sit on the road side starting in neutral, put in gear, dies. Eventually it stays running after numerous failures and lots of time on roadside. Help !!
Years ago I had to replace the kickstand switch. Here is a post from Frammas that explained it....
"Re: Ready! Start! Die! - PITA Problem!
Posted By: Frammis
Date: 6/2/2003 at 10:41:57
In Response To: Ready! Start! Die! - PITA Problem! (Airetime)
My money is on the kickstand switch. Check this diagram and I will tell you how and why this circuit works.
http://www.rattlebars.com/valkfaq/schematics/rpage06.html, plus the page JAWZ posted.
First, the neutral switch. This is a single pole switch. When closed, it connects to ground. If you have a neutral light, then this switch is functioning because this switch provides ground for both the ICM and the light at the same time via the diodes (page 5). This is sort of the master switch. When it provides ground, it does not matter what the position of the kickstand or clutch switch is. When the bike is in gear, something else must provide ground or the bike dies.
Next, check the kickstand switch. This is a double pole switch. When it is down, it provides the ground for the kickstand light. When it is up, the ground to the light is cut (the light goes out), and the ground is switched to the ICM so that the engine will run. So, you could have a working kickstand light but still have a faulty switch if it does not snap or stay in its second position.
The clutch switch actually only matters for starting. If the bike is in neutral, then the neutral switch provides the ground for the starter solenoid and the clutch switch is irrelevant. If the bike is in gear, then the ground circuit goes through the clutch switch and then to the kickstand switch. If the kickstand is down, no ground is created at the start solenoid so the bike doesn’t start. If the kickstand is up, it completes the ground circuit via the clutch switch to the start solenoid. In short, if the kickstand is down, the clutch switch doesn’t do anything. When the kickstand is up, the clutch switch only controls the starter solenoid.
Thus, the kickstand switch has to be the culprit. It is a double pole switch so it could be half bad. The neutral switch clearly works since you can start the bike with the clutch out and you have a light. The clutch switch cannot be the culprit since it only controls the starter solenoid, not the engine kill. "
One thing that you can do if it is the kickstand switch is to bypass it temporarily until you get a new one.
Ignore the (
YELLOW/BLACK) and just shunt the (
GREEN/WHITE) and (
GREEN) wires together at the switch.
