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Ferris Leets
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« on: February 10, 2011, 05:33:06 AM » |
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What size tools are needed to remove the front wheel? I do not want to drive to the shop and find I don't have the right stuff.
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ptgb
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« Reply #1 on: February 10, 2011, 05:44:06 AM » |
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Go here: http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/TireChangeSplineLube.htmRight at the top of the page it gives you a breakdown of what tools you need. Depending on the way you remove stuff, you may not need them all, but gives the socket sizes, hex sizes, etc. |
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 Lower Lakes 1000 - 07/07 & 09/10 * Bun Burner GOLD - 09/10 Lake Superior 1000 - 07/11 * Lake Michigan 1000 - 09/11 * Lake Huron 1000 - 09/11 Saddlesore 2000 - 09/11 * Ohio 1000 - 07/13 |
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Ferris Leets
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« Reply #2 on: February 10, 2011, 07:13:16 AM » |
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I did not really look carefully but, I think think the left side (from rear) is an large allen wrench?
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Joe Hummer
Member
Posts: 1645
VRCC #25677 VRCC Missouri State Representative
Arnold, MO
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« Reply #3 on: February 10, 2011, 07:20:26 AM » |
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If you leave the pinch bolts tight on that side, you can get the nut loose on the other side. Then loosen the pinch bolts to slide the axle out.
Joe
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1999 Valkyrie Interstate
You pay for the whole bike, why not use it Jerry Motorman Palladino
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Ferris Leets
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« Reply #4 on: February 12, 2011, 03:43:13 PM » |
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Not going well at all. The phillips head screw holding the speed sensor is half stripped, I am going to try to remove the gear with it attached so I can get at it easier.
The in board pinch bolt was over tightened and stripped out the head, tried warming the leg to loosen it, still no go. Tried taping the head multiple times before during and after heating and adding penetrating oil. Tried taping the head around with a small chisel. Cut the top 1/8" of the bolt of but did not move the bolt.
Next is going to be making a new wrench out of the next size up standard allen wrench and then heating up the leg again. After that it will be drilling out the head using a left hand drill and then an ez-out
Any other suggestions
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Westsider
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« Reply #5 on: February 12, 2011, 05:42:50 PM » |
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put some valve grinding compound on your allen head wrenches/ phillips tips / ect. what ever your using if they are so tight your stripping the heads..it makes whatever wrench your using..... STICK.... ive never stripped a head or wrench when using it....clean it off real good then go back with a tiny bit of anti seize on your bolts...i also put a spot of nail polish on stuff like axles and such just to have a quick visual down the road that everythings staying put. i always keep a tin or tube of medium compound on the work bench...you'll be surprised how good it works....use on any tight bolt/screw/ your tool wont slip or strip....  |
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« Last Edit: February 14, 2011, 03:13:44 PM by Paul »
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we'll be there when we get there - Valkless,, on lookout....
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #6 on: February 13, 2011, 06:46:37 AM » |
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The pinch bolts work in unison.
If the one bolt is difficult try tightening the other bolt down good and tight since it will remove some of the force from the difficult one and maybe allow it to turn.
The threaded holes are not blind holes but are threaded through to the rear. This will allow more possible ways to get the bolt out. Only limited by your own resourcefulness.
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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Ferris Leets
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« Reply #7 on: February 13, 2011, 03:14:21 PM » |
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I have some gage seal lacquer for the bolt heads, The valve grinding compound sounds like a good idea.
I realize the pinch bolts work that way and tried that. I found the backs of the holes and had already put the penetrating oil in there. before I heated it up. All good ideas. thanks. Will update.
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #8 on: February 14, 2011, 06:40:53 AM » |
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Not going well at all. The phillips head screw holding the speed sensor is half stripped, I am going to try to remove the gear with it attached so I can get at it easier.
The in board pinch bolt was over tightened and stripped out the head, tried warming the leg to loosen it, still no go. Tried taping the head multiple times before during and after heating and adding penetrating oil. Tried taping the head around with a small chisel. Cut the top 1/8" of the bolt of but did not move the bolt.
Next is going to be making a new wrench out of the next size up standard allen wrench and then heating up the leg again. After that it will be drilling out the head using a left hand drill and then an ez-out
Any other suggestions
those holes go all the way through.....might try drilling into the other end of the bolt and then threading in a self tapping steel screw.......tightening from the back side should be "loosening"....just a thought |
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bigfish_Oh
Member
Posts: 404
Allis
West Liberty,Ohio 43357
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« Reply #9 on: February 14, 2011, 07:09:17 AM » |
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for your phillips head, try a perfect size bit and a hand impact, I got so I just done it that way first on the speedo on other bikes.
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2012 HD Road King Classic, Teq sunrise/HD Orange
2009 HD Nightster,orange
1974 CB550F,org
1999 Valkyrie,orange/Black (20K)
2009 GMC 3500 Duramax CC Dually 4wd (new)
1957 WD45 Allis Chalmers Grandpa bought new
1982 CBX (new)
1980 CBX (6K)
1979 CB750F (new)
1958 Lambretta TV175 (Dad's new)
4
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #11 on: February 15, 2011, 06:51:27 AM » |
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That's a good point John!
There are a few Phillips looking screw heads that are not Philips actually.
With a gentle touch, it is able to detect, when the driver is not quite fitting the screw head properly.
Failure to realize there is a difference in design and then using the wrong driver can probably account for the majority of stripped out screw heads.
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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Ferris Leets
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« Reply #12 on: February 17, 2011, 05:14:20 PM » |
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No problem.
The wrench with the stub 6mm worked fine. The valve grinding compound was the deciding factor (I believe). The other 2 bolts were as tight but I put the compound in before I tried. The speedo sensor removal was not needed. I am replacing all of the pinch bolts with new ones.
Thanks again for the info.
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