bikerboy1951
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« on: February 13, 2011, 11:11:06 AM » |
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First a little history. I purchased the bike last fall ('01 standard) with 6125 miles on it. It was delivered the day before Thanksgiving. Since then I have checked some things on the bike. It came with Cobra pipes. I pulled a couple of spark plugs and they were brown (rich). I pulled the top of the carbs and replaced the springs with Interstate springs. At that time I checked the needles and they were original (J6KJ). I pulled the vacuum line off #6 and there was no gas dripping from it. I opened the drain screws on the bowls and all drained gas as they should. Today it is finally a little warmer (46 degrees). It has been on a Battery Tender since I got it. I went to start it. I put the choke on and ensured that it was fully on. Turned the gas petcock switch and pushed the starter. It would start and run for about 3 seconda @ 1000rpm and then die. I would then try to restart it with no luck. If I waited a half hour or so it would repeat the above (start and die). Is it time to pull the carbs for a cleaning or am I overlooking something else I should try first. I have been busy looking in the searches. If I need to pull the carbs, I remember reading about buying new jets from Chaparral, but need the part numbers as I was not able to find them. Thanks for any and all help. I can't wait til spring and don't want to be fixing it when it is time to ride.
Brad
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GOOSE
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Posts: 704
D.S. #: 1643
Southwest Virginia
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« Reply #1 on: February 13, 2011, 12:02:45 PM » |
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bikerboy...first...when you drained the carb bowls, you will have to let the bowls fill-up with gas before it's going to run. once you get it running, and warmed up, if it won't run smoothly without the choke being on ...then you might think about changing the slow jets from #35 to #38. before i did that i might try the techron additive, good luck. 
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csj
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Posts: 992
I used to be a wolfboy, but I'm alright NOOOOOWWWW
Peterborough Ontario Canada
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« Reply #2 on: February 13, 2011, 12:03:37 PM » |
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I've seen this kinda post at least twenty times in the last year. No offence.
The answer most guys give is; pull the choke lever down further, if you pull it down, and it gets tighter, then pull it another 1/2 inch or so, till it won't go any further.
You're just not enriching it enough.
I enrich mine completely, give it a squirt of gas when I hit the starter button, goes every time.
It might depend how far north you are, mine will not go unless I give it a bit 'o gas. ( I'm Way North )
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A guy called me a Ba$tard, I said in my case it's an accident of birth, in your case you're a self made man.
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fudgie
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Posts: 10613
Better to be judged by 12, then carried by 6.
Huntington Indiana
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« Reply #3 on: February 13, 2011, 12:16:14 PM » |
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The little seam in the switch housing should be in line with the bottom of the choke.
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 Now you're in the world of the wolves... And we welcome all you sheep... VRCC-#7196 VRCCDS-#0175 DTR PGR
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Old Geezer Richard
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« Reply #4 on: February 13, 2011, 01:04:36 PM » |
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Hey Bikerboy , I agree with goose , are you pulling the choke lever ALL the way down ? when I first go my Valk , it did the same thing in the winter until I found out that the choke went down further DUHH ! ... you didn't say if your bike had been sitting up for a while before you bought it and you did put some fresh gas in the tank and drained the old stuff ? .... I have had good luck with Berryman B-12 Chemtool and I use Techron treatment about every other month on my bike if when I'm not using Chevron premium gas .... but here lately with this crappy ethanol gas , a wrench head drag racer friend of mine suggested I try some the VP 109 unleaded racing fuel in my gas once a month and WOW that stuff works great , this is not AV fuel ... seeing's how Sea Foam is up to almost $10.00 a 12 oz can , I don't feel bad when I buy 5 gal.'s for $ 50.00 and stretch it out over a month ... this stuff cleans ..... Thanks the Geezer 
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If you don't care where you're going, then you ain't lost , Murphy's Law because wherever you are going to , it ain't going nowhere .... San Antonio,Tx.
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John U.
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« Reply #5 on: February 13, 2011, 01:59:04 PM » |
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Goose is right. The enricher circuit (choke) can't work is there is no fuel in the bowls. In order to get fuel in the bowls you will need to pull avacume on the #6 vacume line that goes to the petcock. That is unless you have a Pingle or other non-vacume petcock. If it's OEM it won't flow gas without a vacume. Once the carb bowls are full be sure the chock lever is on all the way, a previous posts have said.
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John U.
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« Reply #6 on: February 13, 2011, 02:01:36 PM » |
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I meant to mention that just sucking on the vacume hose will work. Keep the suction on long enough for the gas to fill the carb bowls. I'll see if I can find the slow jet #
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John U.
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« Reply #7 on: February 13, 2011, 02:06:17 PM » |
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bikerboy1951
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« Reply #8 on: February 13, 2011, 02:38:17 PM » |
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The enrichener is all the way on. The bottom of the lever is even with the split in the housing. I pulled on both sides and neither one would move any further. I did add new gas the day after I got it. I put in about 3 gaalons and added half a can of SeaFoam at the same time. I did not dump the old gas. I don't know how long it was at the dealership (in Tennessee) before I bought it. They did start it and drive it to the semi to be loaded. I will put suction on the vacuum line tomorrow as it is supposed to be warm again. Does anyone have the Chaparral number for the high speed jets as well. If I end up taking the carbs out, I will replace both sets of jets and clean these as spares. Thanks.
Brad
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9Ball
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« Reply #9 on: February 13, 2011, 03:08:32 PM » |
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I've seen bikes with either too much stabilizer or additives (especially Seafoam) and old gas have problems with spring startups.
I recommend siphoning out the old gas and adding fresh. Make sure the battery is at full charge also, as a partially charged or undercharged battery will not have enough juice for the coils but will allow the starter to turn over.
Sounds like you're almost there.
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VRCC #6897, Joined May, 2000
1999 Standard 2007 Rocket 3 2005 VTX 1300S
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R J
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Posts: 13380
DS-0009 ...... # 173
Des Moines, IA
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« Reply #10 on: February 13, 2011, 05:21:27 PM » |
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One thing no one suggested is, KEEP YOUR FINGERS OFF THE THROTTLE WHEN STARTING IT COLD. When it starts, let it gain the RPM's by itself, then you can try the throttle, and take off some of the choke.
Also, jump it off of a vehicle with the motor not running on the booster car. Sometimes the battery has enough poop to spin it over, but not enough to make it fire and run. If it starts off the booster car, ride it so as to charge up the battery.
Motor in car, not running during the boost, OK?
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44 Harley ServiCar 
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hubcapsc
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Posts: 16788
upstate
South Carolina
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« Reply #11 on: February 13, 2011, 06:12:39 PM » |
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put the choke on and ensured that it was fully on.
You can look down see stuff moving down by the carb tops when you put the choke on...?
Turned the gas petcock switch
What about reserve?
If I waited a half hour or so it would repeat the above (start and die).
Maybe your petcock needs rebuilt?
-Mike
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Hook#3287
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« Reply #12 on: February 14, 2011, 06:02:41 AM » |
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Motor in car, not running during the boost, OK?
RJ?? Why is that? I've jumped mine a couple of times in the past when I left the aux lights on and drained the Batt. I jumped another bike once. I didn't know about this and we left the booster car/bike running w/o bad things happening.
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9Ball
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« Reply #13 on: February 14, 2011, 07:27:18 AM » |
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no first-hand experience, but I've heard when your car's alternator kicks in it can fry the electronics in the motorcycle...
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VRCC #6897, Joined May, 2000
1999 Standard 2007 Rocket 3 2005 VTX 1300S
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R J
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Posts: 13380
DS-0009 ...... # 173
Des Moines, IA
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« Reply #14 on: February 14, 2011, 07:58:42 AM » |
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what jrhorton says...
You might of done it in the past, but for God's sake don't attempt it again as YES SIREE, it will fry a few things in the electrical system.
Thank you for listening and questioning.
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44 Harley ServiCar 
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Bobbo
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« Reply #15 on: February 14, 2011, 09:42:27 AM » |
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what jrhorton says...
You might of done it in the past, but for God's sake don't attempt it again as YES SIREE, it will fry a few things in the electrical system.
Thank you for listening and questioning.
I would really like to see a technical explanation as to how it would "fry" the electronics on the bike.
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9Ball
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« Reply #16 on: February 14, 2011, 03:20:43 PM » |
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I think it's more of a voltage surge issue....would really like to quote Bugs Bunny here but biting my fingers.
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VRCC #6897, Joined May, 2000
1999 Standard 2007 Rocket 3 2005 VTX 1300S
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Bobbo
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« Reply #17 on: February 14, 2011, 05:18:04 PM » |
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I think it's more of a voltage surge issue....would really like to quote Bugs Bunny here but biting my fingers.
What on a bike would be damaged by a voltage surge that wouldn't be damaged on the car? What causes these surges?
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #18 on: February 15, 2011, 06:58:55 AM » |
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The origination of the idea of not running the motor was to protect the (alternator) of the donor vehicle.
This really goes back to the earlier times of having generators rather than alternators on cars.
Now, it is simply unknowing hype!
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #19 on: February 15, 2011, 10:14:04 AM » |
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Motor in car, not running during the boost, OK?
RJ?? Why is that? I've jumped mine a couple of times in the past when I left the aux lights on and drained the Batt. I jumped another bike once. I didn't know about this and we left the booster car/bike running w/o bad things happening. Booster bike running=ok booster car=not fine........too much amps from some car/truck alternators
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Bobbo
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« Reply #20 on: February 15, 2011, 10:46:06 AM » |
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Booster bike running=ok booster car=not fine........too much amps from some car/truck alternators
An automotive battery can provide over 300 Amps of current by itself. Automotive alternators usually provide 100 Amps at most. Hitting a dead battery with 100+ Amps is not healthy for it, but the electronics will only draw what they are designed for, so higher current capacity won’t affect them.
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