Would new triple trees help cool my bike?

[Jeff K]

Well of course they would!

I was talking to some racing radiator places about a custom radiator. They said a bigger radiator may not help much they believe it is an air flow issue. They said to make a fan shroud. Easier said than done. It takes a lot of room to move the radiator out far enough to add a shroud.
I fabed up a shroud and I will say that the air flow is dramatically improved. But... it's getting real close to the fender at full jounce.

So maybe I should get a set of offset triple trees? That should give me another inch or so?
Or it might just be a good excuse to get some offset trees.   
 

[ricoman]

They might make the bike look cool but that's about it.
A bigger radiator would help with?
You built the fan shroud because? you could?- you just felt like it?-or you felt the bike was over heating?- or you were over heating?- or you believe something was broken?-or?

[Jeff K]

They might make the bike look cool but that's about it.
A bigger radiator would help with?
You built the fan shroud because? you could?- you just felt like it?-or you felt the bike was over heating?- or you were over heating?- or you believe something was broken?-or?

My bike is supercharged and is running 8:1 pistons.
It has always had a cooling issue. sometimes worse than others. Sitting in traffic is a killer.

But once you are moving everything is ok.

I've been battling it for a decade now. I'm tired of it and I'm willing to do what ever it takes to solve this. And oil cooler helped, but again there is a clearance issue, and I have fender dents to prove it.

[ricoman]

What about running the fan all the time?
How about side pods/deflectors bringing air to the radiator with extra fans (12V computer fans)? one on each side plus the stock fan? May look kinda neat too.
Don't have blower experience but I bet there's info somewhere on this forum that would help. Have not heard of this issue before. Mike at Valkyrie bling runs a blower, he has other issues than heat- maybe see why he has no heat issues? (and help him with his problems while you're at it) drop him an email
Keep the front wheel down and enjoy the ride!

[JimC]

Give Darryl a call, he can help you

http://www.xf6-custom.com/partpages/tripletree.html

Jim

[Jeff K]

Give Darryl a call, he can help you

http://www.xf6-custom.com/partpages/tripletree.html

Jim

I'm going to give a test run on the shrouded radiator. If it works I'll spring for a Triple tree. If not I'm spending the cash on a bigger Radiator.

I would love to know how much room I'd gain...

[98valk]

what temps are u seeing at long idle and at cruise?

http://www.irday.com/html/Engine%20fuel%20engineering/20080412/8400.html

have u thought about modifying the waterpump similar to a flowkooler?
http://www.flowkooler.com/cooling_faq/

I am sure u are aware that straight water with waterpump lube cools better than 50/50 mix

http://www.stewartcomponents.com/Tech_Tips.htm

http://thebrassworks.net/faq.aspx    aluminum or cooper/brass rad? or a modern cross flow aluminum rad. don't know if OEM are cross flow or not

[JimC]

Jeff,
That is what I should have said in my first post,
Call Darryl , he will be able to tell you how much room you will gain with the various tripple trees.
Jim

[Jeff K]

what temps are u seeing at long idle and at cruise?

http://www.irday.com/html/Engine%20fuel%20engineering/20080412/8400.html

have u thought about modifying the waterpump similar to a flowkooler?
http://www.flowkooler.com/cooling_faq/

I am sure u are aware that straight water with waterpump lube cools better than 50/50 mix

http://www.stewartcomponents.com/Tech_Tips.htm

http://thebrassworks.net/faq.aspx    aluminum or cooper/brass rad? or a modern cross flow aluminum rad. don't know if OEM are cross flow or not

I run straight water and waterwetter. That did help

My temp steadily climb at rest, at an Idle. The heat soak overwhelms the cooling system.

[98valk]

if idle is the only problem then maybe u just need the fan to start sooner than the OEM setting or maybe a fan with a higher CFM rating is needed for your application.

[Jeff K]

if idle is the only problem then maybe u just need the fan to start sooner than the OEM setting or maybe a fan with a higher CFM rating is needed for your application.

I've been running Spal Fans for years. Duals at first, then even went to pushers in the front and pullers in the back. The Fans are controlled by the EFI EMU not the stock switch. I have it set to come on at 200. But it comes on and shuts off at increasing intervals until it's on all the time and can not recover.

[T.P.]

HEY JEFF,   How about an oil cooler ?

[Jeff K]

HEY JEFF,   How about an oil cooler ?

I had one and it did help. But I put a dent in my fender with it. Note to self... wheelies can cause clearance issues...

I'm going to reinstall it, also.

[98valk]

what RPM are u running at idle? if the water pump is turning to slowly, any vehicle will overheat.

[Jeff K]

what RPM are u running at idle? if the water pump is turning to slowly, any vehicle will overheat.

Idling to slowly is never an issue with a supercharger. It idles at about 1000-1100 rpm

[olddog1946]

Are you sure the radiator is clean?  I had a 98 S10 that would do the same thing when I got into any kind of slow moving/idle situation then drop to 190 once I hit the highway...just needed to be rodded/cleaned out.   There are others here that have supercharges, might want to check with Roger at RMWorks (belly tank builder), both he and his wife have superchargers in their bikes..

[98valk]

too go along with olddog, and with all of the work u have done, this could be your problem and u actually do have a clogged radiator.  something to check at least.

http://www.sancarlosradiator.com/images/Electrolysis%20Problems%20Increase.pdf

In cases of electrolysis, a defective or
missing ground on an electrical device
causes the electricity to seek the path of
least resistance whenever the component is
energized. Sometimes the path of least
resistance is a radiator or heater hose, or
the radiator or heater core. As the current
draw of the poorly grounded accessory
increases, so does the destructiveness of
electrolysis.
A poorly grounded engine and starter
motor can zap enough current through the
cooling system to blast apart a heater or
radiator in a matter of weeks or even days,

[Blackduck]

The standard temp switch is the same part number as the one in my Magna.Too hot (100-102 oC) and add in that the on the Magna the switch is on the cold side of the radiator so it gets very hot (120 oC plus) before the fan cut in.
Went to an Auto parts dealer and obtained another switch with the same thread but lower setting so it comes in a lot earlier.
The next cheapest and easier thing is to add a manual switch to bring the fan in when you want it and let the standard switch control it the rest of the time.
As above an additional blower fan may be a good cure, again on a manual switch or a second temp switch to control it.
There are dual switches but most are pretty high on their settings and here they are pretty expensive.
Cheers Steve

[Ricky-D]

I tend to agree with CA here!

It would seem that the water pump is the main player but not carrying it's load.

***

[Jeff K]

The standard temp switch is the same part number as the one in my Magna.Too hot (100-102 oC) and add in that the on the Magna the switch is on the cold side of the radiator so it gets very hot (120 oC plus) before the fan cut in.
Went to an Auto parts dealer and obtained another switch with the same thread but lower setting so it comes in a lot earlier.
The next cheapest and easier thing is to add a manual switch to bring the fan in when you want it and let the standard switch control it the rest of the time.
As above an additional blower fan may be a good cure, again on a manual switch or a second temp switch to control it.
There are dual switches but most are pretty high on their settings and here they are pretty expensive.
Cheers Steve

I have a manual switch for the fans. I turn them on if I see traffic ahead. It helps for a while but the heat soak eventually overwhelms the cooling system. My temperature setting on my fan is controlled by my fuel injection controller. It is fully programmable.

[T.P.]

 Re: (No subject)
« Sent to: T.P. on: May 05, 2010, 06:20:47 PM » Reply with quote Remove  

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B&M oil cooler and flex a lite oil adapter had it on for years before the Blower works like a champ, little tight on the fender clearance, just mounted it with sheet metal screws. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLX-3967/   Oil cooler....http://www.bmracing.com/PRODUCTS/Polished-Transmission-Cooler # 8 stainless hose and fittings.

I got this back from "FSTSIX" last year he had this oil cooler set up 0n his bike

[pvan]

Hey JK, I am with ya on the heat issue when in traffic, our blower bikes need to move air to keep within operating range.
 An oil cooler I have heard helps a lot but still at idle in traffic blower bikes heat up.
I have thought that some kind of fans behind the triple trees that force air under the front of the gas tank would help cool down the intake air and help a bit with heat?
What about an intercooler would this help with heat reduction in addition to helping reduce the intake air temp?

[Jeff K]

Hey JK, I am with ya on the heat issue when in traffic, our blower bikes need to move air to keep within operating range.
 An oil cooler I have heard helps a lot but still at idle in traffic blower bikes heat up.
I have thought that some kind of fans behind the triple trees that force air under the front of the gas tank would help cool down the intake air and help a bit with heat?
What about an intercooler would this help with heat reduction in addition to helping reduce the intake air temp?

I think my problem is magnified by my low compression pistons. I'm sure I'm making less HP at idle and I still have to spin the supercharger. I wish I would have left the piston flat top. I had more static HP for cruise and Idle.

In traffic my keys get so hot you can't hold them. 

[pvan]

The adiabatic heat of higher compression as we know offers more power at ignition but it also creates more hot gas thus more heat when compared to lower compression ratios.

Jeff, if you think your 8 to 1 is causing more heat at idle due to working harder to spin the S/C just increase the idle speed a bit.